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February 9, 2024
Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings: "Relative Value and Absolute Value – Establishments with High Absolute Value"
Serialized Essays | #ijichiman's Musings
Part 52: "Relative Value and Absolute Value – Establishments with High Absolute Value"
It is said that values have diversified these days. Certainly, until around the early 2000s, the idea of owning a home and a car and building a family like the one in Sazae-san was a universal value. If you picked someone up for a date in a "Wa"-plated car, it was considered uncool. Now, in 2020 and beyond, that has somehow become a value that no longer holds true as a general rule. Fewer people find value in material possessions, so money no longer equates to happiness, and individual values have been formed. If happiness could be solved with money, then relative wealth would be the measure of value, but that is no longer the case. The role models hyped by the media and the paths laid out by parents are not the correct answers; only what one finds and decides for oneself is considered the one and only correct answer.
Photographs and Text by IJICHI Yasutake
An Era Where Absolute Values Matter Because There Are No Right Answers
Finding it yourself requires wisdom and knowledge, and it takes resources and energy. If there's a GOAL, you can work backward to balance things out, but without a correct answer, some people find the solution immediately with 1+1, while others may continue calculating forever without finding an answer. Numbers aren't just 1 to 10; there are infinite numbers like billions, trillions, quadrillions, and beyond, and calculations aren't just multiplication tables; there are also square roots and summations. If you have "experiential knowledge," you know that units beyond quadrillions, square roots, and summations are rarely used in daily life, but if you only have "knowledge and information," it can overcomplicate your thinking, leading you to overthink things that could be settled with a simple 1+1=2.
While it's important to take in a lot of new stimuli at once, I believe it's even more crucial to sift through them and refine "what is truly important to me." When I was younger, I craved new stimuli; or rather, everything I encountered was fresh and stimulating, so I thought new experiences equaled new values. But as I approach forty, I've come to see value in continuing one thing. However, this doesn't mean stubbornly clinging to Showa-era sensibilities; it requires flexibility and change at times. Just because values are diversifying doesn't mean we should be overly influenced by others or make excuses to go with the flow, but rather we should incorporate the good aspects and customize them into our own style.
Thinking simply is actually the most difficult thing. It involves taking all the ideas in your head, organizing them, factoring out only what's necessary, and structuring them systematically. The final product of this process is ultimate simplicity, so even if it appears effortless and clear at first glance, it is actually dense and rich in concentration.
From popular chain restaurants to ultra-high-end dining, from hard-to-book yakiniku joints to invitation-only sushi bars. There are times when relative values like whether something is cheap or expensive, or whether you can dine at a place others can't, are important. However, what truly feels comfortable are establishments with high absolute value. Being unique is better than being number one. Even if everyone else says a restaurant is bad, or if it has a low rating on review sites, if you think it's good, then it's good. Because values are diversifying and changing, it's essential to have your own values firmly in place and constantly update them.
■ Oden Setsu: Nomura Bldg. 2F, 3-2 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Have you ever wished for a place that welcomes you with a "Welcome home"? For me, this is that place. On a cold day as winter approached, I wanted to eat oden and found this place nearby after searching. It's run single-handedly by a seemingly gruff and unsociable female owner, and I was seated in a corner of the counter. As I was quietly enjoying my meal alone, nearing the end, she asked, "Are you okay, young man?" I replied, "I'm fine, everything was delicious." She then said, "No, you just seem unwell." Coincidentally, I had been feeling unwell that day, so I was surprised. We ended up talking for a long time, and I've been back repeatedly since. She apparently has been running this place alone in Kagurazaka for over 40 years. The "simple" oden, along with vinegared octopus, simmered eggplant, shiokara, and a warm sake. Perfection.
Have you ever wished for a place that welcomes you with a "Welcome home"? For me, this is that place. On a cold day as winter approached, I wanted to eat oden and found this place nearby after searching. It's run single-handedly by a seemingly gruff and unsociable female owner, and I was seated in a corner of the counter. As I was quietly enjoying my meal alone, nearing the end, she asked, "Are you okay, young man?" I replied, "I'm fine, everything was delicious." She then said, "No, you just seem unwell." Coincidentally, I had been feeling unwell that day, so I was surprised. We ended up talking for a long time, and I've been back repeatedly since. She apparently has been running this place alone in Kagurazaka for over 40 years. The "simple" oden, along with vinegared octopus, simmered eggplant, shiokara, and a warm sake. Perfection.
■ Kōshun: Hieda Bldg. 1F, 2-45-9 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
This is a place I've frequented since my student days. A friend who lived nearby and I used to hang out there almost every day, and he often took me here. Whether it was dinnertime or late after playing games, they always welcomed me the same way, and my usual order was daikon mochi, stir-fried greens, and chicken noodles. I stopped going for a while, but when I returned after several years, the owner remembered me, and I started visiting regularly again. I first tried daikon mochi here, and it was so exquisite served with garlic, ginger, and soy sauce that I now order it everywhere and even buy it at department store basements. However, Kōshun's daikon mochi is truly one of a kind. Everything on the menu pairs exceptionally well with Shaoxing wine, and the wine served from the urn is incredibly delicious. Although it might be over for this year, their Shanghai crab season is also recommended.
This is a place I've frequented since my student days. A friend who lived nearby and I used to hang out there almost every day, and he often took me here. Whether it was dinnertime or late after playing games, they always welcomed me the same way, and my usual order was daikon mochi, stir-fried greens, and chicken noodles. I stopped going for a while, but when I returned after several years, the owner remembered me, and I started visiting regularly again. I first tried daikon mochi here, and it was so exquisite served with garlic, ginger, and soy sauce that I now order it everywhere and even buy it at department store basements. However, Kōshun's daikon mochi is truly one of a kind. Everything on the menu pairs exceptionally well with Shaoxing wine, and the wine served from the urn is incredibly delicious. Although it might be over for this year, their Shanghai crab season is also recommended.
■ Daifukuen: 2-13-6 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Asakusa has many popular yakiniku restaurants, with Hon-to-Saya and Kinraku being famous long-standing establishments. However, my current favorite is this place. There are various reasons why I like it, but it's almost never difficult to get a reservation, I love the atmosphere of the tatami mat seating area, the always friendly staff greet me energetically, and somehow, we just click. The restaurant's sign advertises delicious kalbi, but the local buzz is that the tongue is even better. I, too, am a fan of tongue, and I was captivated by theirs. The tongue is perfectly junky yet not overpowering, pairing wonderfully with both white rice and alcohol. My personal theory is that a restaurant with good tripe also has good meat, and their tripe is indeed delicious. There are no rank classifications like 'special' or 'prime' for the meat; the menu is a simple composition of meat, rice, and alcohol. I also love this straightforward approach.
Asakusa has many popular yakiniku restaurants, with Hon-to-Saya and Kinraku being famous long-standing establishments. However, my current favorite is this place. There are various reasons why I like it, but it's almost never difficult to get a reservation, I love the atmosphere of the tatami mat seating area, the always friendly staff greet me energetically, and somehow, we just click. The restaurant's sign advertises delicious kalbi, but the local buzz is that the tongue is even better. I, too, am a fan of tongue, and I was captivated by theirs. The tongue is perfectly junky yet not overpowering, pairing wonderfully with both white rice and alcohol. My personal theory is that a restaurant with good tripe also has good meat, and their tripe is indeed delicious. There are no rank classifications like 'special' or 'prime' for the meat; the menu is a simple composition of meat, rice, and alcohol. I also love this straightforward approach.
■ lovat: 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, 1F
An Italian restaurant just off the beaten path in Ebisu, along Meiji Dori. It has an atmosphere where you can spend time quietly without being ostentatious, yet enjoy yourself with close friends without worrying about others, perhaps due to the staff's perfect balance of personal space and friendliness. While the menu isn't extensive and has a simple composition, the ingredients and preparation are top-notch for everything. Focusing on meat, you'll want to try all the pastas and appetizers. Their specialties not only taste great but are also presented beautifully, capturing the heart. It's an exemplary establishment that stays true to its path, embraces change, and is loved for a long time, without pretense or affectation.
An Italian restaurant just off the beaten path in Ebisu, along Meiji Dori. It has an atmosphere where you can spend time quietly without being ostentatious, yet enjoy yourself with close friends without worrying about others, perhaps due to the staff's perfect balance of personal space and friendliness. While the menu isn't extensive and has a simple composition, the ingredients and preparation are top-notch for everything. Focusing on meat, you'll want to try all the pastas and appetizers. Their specialties not only taste great but are also presented beautifully, capturing the heart. It's an exemplary establishment that stays true to its path, embraces change, and is loved for a long time, without pretense or affectation.
伊地知泰威｜IJICHI Yasutake
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he began involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and resigned at the age of 30. With his representative, a friend of 20 years since middle school, he participated in the launch of Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," and served as Vice President until September 2020. Currently, he continues his city explorations while supporting clients' corporate communications and branding across a wide range of industries. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman
Born in Tokyo in 1982. While attending Keio University, he began involved in planning and producing receptions and parties for major brands at an event company. After transferring to a PR firm, he worked as a planner and resigned at the age of 30. With his representative, a friend of 20 years since middle school, he participated in the launch of Japan's first cold-pressed juice specialty store, "Sunshine Juice," and served as Vice President until September 2020. Currently, he continues his city explorations while supporting clients' corporate communications and branding across a wide range of industries. His favorite foods are fugu (pufferfish) and suppon (soft-shelled turtle). His favorite sports are baseball and horse racing. His favorite places are traditional coffee shops and casual izakayas.
Instagram:ijichiman