Prioritizing Softness and Comfort in Materials

YoshidaHow long has it been since you started your brand, “RYUZO Nakata”?

RYUZOAbout five years.

YoshidaYou really pioneered “bijoux denim.” You’re the originator. I see every collection. They’re all so beautiful, and I try them on, but I feel like I need courage to wear them… or maybe I’m just not ready for them yet… They have flowers on them, too… (laughs).

YoshidaBy the way, what do you think about when you’re designing?

RYUZOFor men, it’s what I want to wear myself. For women’s clothing, of course, there’s the construction, but I also think about what happens when it’s taken off… like, if it falls to the floor after being removed, does the lining (the garment itself) still look beautiful…?

YoshidaWhen it’s taken off… (laughs). …I see.

RYUZOThe material feel is more important. Also, for women’s clothing, the embroidery is placed where I would “touch” the female body.

YoshidaWow! (laughs) Really?!

RYUZOWhether it’s denim pants or a skirt, you can feel the embroidery… where it’s slightly torn, it’s like the eye follows down, and the hand pauses there…

YoshidaI see, I see… (laughs).

RYUZOI like things that are soft and feel good. Because the sensation of wanting to touch and keep touching is enjoyable, I often use tweed. Tweed is made from a blend of four or five different materials, so the surface isn’t uniform, right? Like a well-worn knit, it’s soft and comfortable from the start, even when new. I like that.

YoshidaSo, the material feel is very important.

Garments Where the Lining Isn't Just a Lining, but Comfortable to Wear

RYUZOExactly. That’s why I don’t have seasonal collection themes. My theme is eternal femininity… I dislike easily falling into common phrases. Like, “This season’s theme is Africa”…

YoshidaI understand (laughs). You want to be more free?

RYUZOThere’s always the overarching, eternal theme of “women,” and beyond that, I want to emphasize “comfort” and “feeling good.” That’s why RYUZO’s linings aren’t just “linings.” I use silk, the same fabric used for the exterior, for the linings.

YoshidaHow many staff members do you have at “RYUZO” now? Are there any French people?

RYUZOCurrently, most of the staff are Japanese, with one Russian. About ten people in total. All of RYUZO’s clothes, whether Swarovski, beads, or pearls, are hand-sewn, right? Nothing is glued, so it takes a lot of work. Ultimately, Japanese people are very skillful and meticulous, and everyone works hard for me… It’s about love, isn’t it?

YoshidaThank you so much for today. It was fun hearing about your childhood. Let’s have a delicious meal next time I’m in Paris. Thank you. Oh, and I’m looking forward to your continued success.