Lounge
May 11, 2015
Part 48: Fashion Designer RYUZO Nakata x M.Y. LABEL's Maki Yoshida Dialogue (1/1)
49th: Fashion Designer RYUZO Nakata x M.Y. LABEL Maki Yoshida
“Is Design About Instantaneous Power?” (1)
Our second installment of interviews features fashion designer RYUZO Nakata, who is based in France.
RYUZO, a pioneer of "BIJOUX DENIM"—denim adorned with sequins, Swarovski crystals, and other embellishments—is also a close friend with whom I enjoy sharing good food and conversation whenever the opportunity arises, whether in Paris or Tokyo.
This conversation was a delightful one, filled with stories I had never heard before, including episodes from RYUZO's sensitive childhood that led him to pursue a career in fashion.
Compiled by Fuyuki TogawaPhoto by Jamandfix
RYUZO NAKATA's "BIJOUX DENIM," Born in Nice, Southern France
Maki YoshidaIt’s been a while. You’re still in short sleeves today, I see (laughs).
RYUZO NakataParis has central heating everywhere, so it’s warm indoors. My childhood home in Hokkaido also had central heating. So, I’m usually like this even in winter.
YoshidaI remember when we first met, you were wearing a tank top under a long fur coat… (laughs).
RYUZOOh, was I? Of course…
YoshidaRYUZO was introduced to me by my older brother (fashion designer Tokihito Yoshida), who is an acquaintance. He introduced us when I first exhibited at a trade show in Paris. Since then, every time I go to Paris, we’ve been hanging out almost every night… Thank you for everything. By the way, how many years have you been in Paris?
RYUZOThe pleasure is all mine, thank you for the times in Tokyo. Paris… it’s been 28 years, I think. I first went there through an introduction from the principal of a fashion school in Tokyo. I just registered at a language school, and the very next day, a British fabric supplier became my patron. He introduced me to an Italian man who worked for a company founded by the son of TED LAPIDUS, and I ended up creating collections for them… Words aren’t necessary when you’re creating things, you know.
YoshidaWere you designing womenswear from the beginning?
RYUZONo, that was menswear. I used the fabrics I liked freely, made patterns freely, and sewed them freely. If they liked it, they would use it in their collection.
YoshidaSo, when did you move to Ungaro?
RYUZOAfter that, I worked for various companies for two years, but I finally ran out of money for a return flight. I thought, "What the heck," and went around the haute couture houses on Avenue Montaigne, starting from one end, with my design sketches. That’s how I met Ungaro himself, and he hired me on the spot. He gave me a room, and I started working the next day. I wonder if he was going to buy my design sketches?
RYUZO Nakata
YoshidaIs that so? And then you were there for 18 years, eventually becoming a chief designer.
RYUZOYes. After that, I just drew design sketches every day. I drew about 600 sketches for just one collection… With six collections a year, that means I drew 3,000 sketches annually. At the same time, I had fittings with Ungaro every day…
YoshidaAnd then you went independent.
RYUZOThere were company buyouts and things became less interesting, so I left Ungaro and took a vacation for about a year in the South of France, in Nice and Cannes…
YoshidaWhat? How wonderfully elegant! (laughs).
RYUZOHahaha. I thought I’d just relax in the South of France and paint. I brought canvases, but then I thought, "Would it be interesting to paint on denim…?" So I did. When I showed those denim paintings to a friend in Japan, they said, "Send them over."
YoshidaSo you were painting on denim in Nice and sending them to Japan…
RYUZOYes. My friend put those denim pieces in their shop, and they sold out. They asked me to "send more, keep sending them." Then, in addition to painting, I started attaching sparkling stones to the denim.
Yoshida…And that was the beginning of "BIJOUX DENIM…?
RYUZOThat’s right. But I don’t like being confined to standards, and it gets complicated, doesn’t it? Like, "The placement of this stone is wrong…" So I don’t use factories. Ever since then, I’ve made everything as "one-of-a-kind" pieces with my own team.
YoshidaNow, "BIJOUX DENIM" is mentioned in various magazines, and it's all over the place… But you were the one who created it first, weren't you, RYUZO?
RYUZOYes. I’m the one who named it "BIJOUX DENIM" (BIJOUX means jewel in French). After that, it seems it started being referred to that way in various magazines…
Adorned with Swarovski crystals and beads,
RYUZO Nakata's "BIJOUX DENIM" are all one-of-a-kind.
Swarovski crystals, black beads, 18k gold sequins, etc.
are hand-sewn one by one.
A Childhood of Wearing Distinctive Clothes
YoshidaBy the way, were you interested in fashion from a young age?
RYUZOBefore I can even remember, I was drawing pictures from the age of three. By the time I was in elementary school, I might have already been interested in clothes. I have an older brother who is six years older than me, so I was exposed to various information earlier than my peers.
YoshidaMy situation was similar.
RYUZOWhen my brother bought clothes, I would immediately buy the same ones and modify them. When I wore them, my friends would ask, "Where did you get those?" The Beatles were popular then, and they wore pants with really wide legs like this. So, I’d sew triangular gussets onto the hems of my own pants and say, "Mine are the widest, 33 centimeters!?" (laughs).
YoshidaHahaha. When was that? Around middle school?
RYUZOYes… Maybe elementary school… or middle school. In high school, I even did it with my uniform.
YoshidaWhat? Even with your uniform?
RYUZOMy uniform was a "long jacket" style. It had an inner zipper and eight buttons. The collar was 6 centimeters wide, and I painted it blue with model paint instead of leaving it white.
YoshidaSuspicious! (laughs). You must have been the most notorious freshman at school.
RYUZOHahaha. Yes, I suppose so. But fortunately, a powerful senior lived right next door to my house, and he knew me well, so I was protected at school and never got into trouble (laughs).
A coat with delicate embroidery
comes with a matching stylish champagne bottle bag.
Embroidery and pearls exude elegant glamour.
Inherited from My Fashionable Mother
YoshidaRYUZO, what prompted you to start designing womenswear?
RYUZOLooking back now, when I was in elementary school and other kids were still sniffling and wearing black anoraks, I was dressed in a three-piece wool set: a beret, a half-coat, and wide-legged pants.
YoshidaWow. That’s quite fashionable! Did someone make them for you?
RYUZOYes. My mommy (mother) had never worn clothes bought off the rack; everything was custom-made. Because of that, even though I was in Hokkaido, I was dressed like a pampered child from Tokyo (?), wearing things like short pants suits with tights.
YoshidaYou must have definitely been famous in your hometown as a "fashionable mother" and "fashionable son" (laughs).
RYUZOBut I hated it back then. Girls would come up to me saying, "Wow, how cute!" (laughs).
YoshidaPerhaps your mother's influence was significant in your decision to pursue a career in fashion?
RYUZOYes. At first, I learned the basics in menswear and designed and made clothes. But as time went on, I started thinking about the clothes I wore as a child and the "custom-made" clothes my mother wore, and I realized they were quite wonderful…
YoshidaI had no idea you had such formative childhood experiences. I never knew! (laughs).
Good Design Nearby
Fashion Designer Ryuzo Nakata x M.Y. LABEL Maki Yoshida Interview: “Is Design About Instantaneous Power?” (2)To be continued
RYUZO Nakata(Ryuzo Nakata)
Designer
RRR RYUZO NAKATA
8, AVENUE CONSTANT COQUELIN 75007
PARIS FRANCE
TEL +33-(0)1-4553-3412
CONTACT：rrrcc@free.fr
http://www.ryuzonakata.fr