Lounge
May 11, 2015
Part 23: TERAKOYA's Mitsuo Kan x M.Y. LABEL's Maki Yoshida Dialogue (2)
The 23rd
Everyday Good Design
Dialogue: Mitsuo Ma of TERAKOYA x Maki Yoshida of M.Y. LABEL
“Grand Maison” and Its Cutlery.....(2)
This is the second installment of a conversation with French chef Mitsuo Ma and product designer Maki Yoshida.
Among the many French restaurants, “Grand Maison” is considered the most luxurious. We asked Ma, who has dedicated his life to creating the ultimate restaurant, about the definition and spirit of a Grand Maison. The conversation also touches upon the common ground between chefs and designers...
Composition and Text by Daisuke HataPhoto by Jamandfix
What is the Ultimate Restaurant?
YoshidaIsn't it difficult to maintain this building?
MaThe oldest part of the TERAKOYA building dates back to 1934. My grandfather, who was a painter, built a Western-style wooden house here as his creative space. (As it's an old building) we've been making repairs and renovations almost every year.
While preserving the original is certainly important, it also needs to be functional as a place for dining. So, while the structure remains old, my approach is to update utilities like the plumbing to meet modern needs.
YoshidaI see. That's something that requires a proven track record and accumulated experience.
Pomegranate in the TERAKOYA garden
MaThank you. When I think about what constitutes the 'ultimate restaurant,' I believe it's a place where you can enjoy food that reflects the chef's individuality, incorporating new elements, within a gorgeous, palace-like atmosphere, surrounded by attentive service staff, and choosing from an extensive wine list. So, I strive to bring everything—the food, the service, the building—one step closer to that ideal.
YoshidaI'd never really considered the definition of a restaurant before, but hearing you explain it, I understand.
MaJust like people, there are countless restaurants, and each has its own personality. The job of the owner-chef is to consider TERAKOYA's personality and give it form. For example, I could have the staff wear tailcoats and serve with the meticulousness of an English butler. But if I consider what's most comfortable for the guests, that wouldn't be right.
Similarly, serving classic dishes swimming in butter with a "this is true French cuisine" attitude wouldn't satisfy anyone. The caloric intake today is vastly different from the early 1900s, so that's only natural.
Absolute Value and Relative Value
MaYour family's establishment, Maki-san's, was also originally a traditional Japanese restaurant, wasn't it?
YoshidaMy grandfather ran it, but there was no one to inherit it. Actually, I wanted to become a chef myself when I was in junior high school. But my parents, having seen the hardships of being a chef firsthand, were against it.
What I like about being a chef is that, like music, even if the food itself doesn't remain, the impression it leaves can be deeply etched in one's heart. I chose the path of a designer, but there are times when I want to create something that leaves an impression rather than a physical object.
MaConversely, I envy your work, Maki-san, which leaves a lasting impression without being 'digested.' Jewelry has absolute value, whether it's in a display case or worn by someone. And if it's a gift, it carries the emotions of that moment, and wearing it continuously might even create new emotions. That's wonderful.
With food, there's no absolute value. The same meal might taste delicious when shared with loved ones, but not if you're forced to eat it with someone you dislike.
That's precisely why we must cherish everything, including the service and atmosphere. Even the Michelin Guide always evaluates atmosphere, service, and cuisine. The view from my windows might be helping my cooking quite a bit (laughs).
The waiting area in the garden. In the past, fires were made with charcoal for warmth.
What Defines a “Grand Maison”?
YoshidaYour restaurant, Ma-san, is called a 'Grand Maison,' isn't it? What exactly is the definition of that?
MaRegardless of its form, I feel it's an establishment that has internalized and understands the core of French cuisine.
YoshidaWith hotels, the grade is determined by the facilities, isn't it? So, it's purely a matter of spirit, not that?
With the tea room and stage behind
MaThat's how I see it. For instance, even a large establishment in a prime location in New York can't necessarily be called a Grand Maison. French culture is ultimately a hierarchical society. In a restaurant, there's the chef, the sous chef, the section chefs, the servers, and the apprentices, forming a pyramid structure. I believe a Grand Maison is about having such a functional collective. It's not about the hierarchy itself being superior.
Of course, scale is a factor, as is the extent of the wine cellar or the variety of cheeses. These are certainly elements. However, I feel that simply going through the motions without genuine spirit—like 'making a Buddha statue but not breathing life into it'—is not a true Grand Maison.
YoshidaIs that so? So, there's no qualification needed to call oneself a Grand Maison?
MaNot at all.
YoshidaSo, it's either one declares oneself as such (laughs), or others call you that?
MaYes. The word 'Grand' means both 'large' and 'great.' I aspire to be a Grand Maison myself, but I've never declared it.
The word 'Maison' can refer to the house itself or to a family line. French chefs often inherit the profession, having seen their fathers wield knives and stir pots in the kitchen. In that sense, since our establishment has been passed down for three generations, it might be considered a 'Maison'.
Everyday Good Design: Special Dialogue
TERAKOYA Mitsuo Ma x M.Y. LABEL Maki Yoshida: “Grand Maison” and Its Cutlery.....(3)To be continued
TERAKOYA
3-33-32 Maehara-cho, Koganei-shi, Tokyo
Tel. 042-381-1101
Lunch 12:00–15:00 Dinner 17:30–22:30
Closed Mondays and the first Tuesday of every month
http://www.res-terakoya.co.jp
Profile
TERAKOYA Owner Chef
Mitsuo Ma
Born in 1965 in his family's restaurant, TERAKOYA. Surrounded by food from a young age, he entered the culinary world at 19. He developed his own cooking style largely through self-study and took over as the third-generation owner-chef in 1991. He has created over 3,000 dishes and appeared on cooking shows such as 'Iron Chef.' He is highly respected in culinary magazines.