The Kannon-yama float proceeds down Shinmachi Dori. All the floats and large Yama pass through this narrow street. You'll find hardly any tourists here.

A Month-Long Spectacle: Gion Matsuri

Gion Matsuri has begun.
Many tourists associate Gion Matsuri with the "Yoiyama" festivities on July 16th and the "Yamaboko Junko" procession on the 17th. However, the festival actually spans the entire month of July.

The month kicks off on July 1st with the "Kippu-iri" (start of rituals), followed by the "Osendo" where the children of Naginata-boko town, accompanied by a child representative, pray for the safe completion of the rituals at Yasaka Shrine. The 2nd sees the "Kuji-tori-shiki" to decide the procession order, and from the 10th, the "Hoko-date" (float construction) begins, with "Yama-date" (float construction) commencing the following day.

In the central Kyoto districts involved in Gion Matsuri, numerous other rituals take place. A stroll through the Shijo Dori area might lead you to encounter one of these ceremonies.

Last year, I happened upon the "Chigo Sansha." This ritual, held on July 13th, involves the child representative riding at the front of the Naginata-boko float (other floats carry dolls), accompanied by attendants, visiting Yasaka Shrine to receive their official position. Around this time, residents of the float and Yama districts also conduct their "Tameshi-biki" (trial pulls).

Tourists begin to flock to Kyoto for Gion Matsuri around the "Yoiyoiyama" on the 15th. By the Yoiyama on the 16th, hundreds of thousands of spectators fill the streets around Shijo Dori, the heart of the float and Yama districts, giving you an idea of the immense crowds.

A Challenging Spectacle: Shinmachi Dori Recommended

Then comes the 17th, the day of the Yamaboko Junko, the grand highlight of Gion Matsuri.
Last year, heavy rain began to fall before the procession started, which reduced the turnout. Nevertheless, the streets were still packed with onlookers.

Watching the floats and Yama proceed along the wide streets from behind a wall of people can be quite a challenge.
Since you've made the journey to Kyoto to witness Gion Matsuri, you shouldn't miss the opportunity to view it from a hidden gem of a spot. Shinmachi Dori is my recommendation.

The procession begins on Shijo Dori, proceeds along Kawaramachi Dori and Oike Dori, and then the Yama and Hoko return to their respective districts.
During this return, all the Hoko and many Yama travel south down Shinmachi Dori. Unlike the wider streets leading up to this point, Shinmachi Dori is narrow, almost like an alleyway. It's along this confined path that the Hoko and Yama navigate, often appearing to brush against the buildings.

You'll find hardly any tourists here. The spectators are mostly local residents. Last year, I watched the procession from this very spot.
Shinmachi Dori offers an unparalleled, up-close view of the Yamaboko Junko, where you can almost feel the floats and Yama passing by. It is, quite simply, the one recommended hidden gem.