Toshio Matsuura | from TOKYO MOON January 3 ON AIR | New Year's Conversation: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim)
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March 6, 2015

Toshio Matsuura | from TOKYO MOON January 3 ON AIR | New Year's Conversation: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim)


Toshio Matsuura | Program's 1st Anniversary, 2-Hour Special


The Quiet Passion Behind the Products──


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim)


On Sunday nights, your own time, flowing leisurely with exquisite music, is a moment of bliss for adults. Delivering such rich time is the radio program "TOKYO MOON" by DJ Toshio Matsuura──. He broadcasts carefully selected wonderful music from around the world and intellectually stimulating topics for adults every Sunday from 7 PM on Inter FM 76.1MHz. Here, we present the program as it aired each week. This week, titled "New Year's Special," we feature a special conversation with Hiroki Nakamura, designer of "visvim," as our guest. The song selection also offers a unique perspective, ranging from Hibari Misora to the musician debut of the genius David Lynch. It was surely a fulfilling two hours, befitting the program's first anniversary.


Text by Toshio Matsuura




Chic Music to Celebrate the New Year


Happy New Year, everyone. I hope to introduce a lot of interesting music again this year, so please continue to support us.

For the first broadcast of 2011, I've put together a selection with a slightly different, unique perspective. This includes the highly anticipated debut album from the genius David Lynch, known for "The Elephant Man" and "Blue Velvet," set for release late this month; and a comparison of cover versions of the hit song "Cucurrucucú Paloma," discovered by American singer Harry Belafonte in Mexico in the 1950s, as sung by Hibari Misora and Caetano Veloso. I've also played Japanese and British songs that likely influenced each other, one after another.

And as our guest, we welcomed Hiroki Nakamura, designer of "visvim," for a special talk. We've added playful touches, like selecting Latin montuno piano music for the background when discussing Cuba, to create a relaxed New Year's evening for adults.


TOKYO MOON 01

Nostalgia 77
The Sleep Walking Society




TOKYO MOON 02

Sarah Vaughan
VIva Vaughan




TOKYO MOON 03

Monica Zetterlund
Waltz For Debby




TOKYO MOON 04

Hibari Misora
Jazz & Standard Complete Collection






150_5

Buddy Sativa
Deus Ex Machina




150_6

Caetano Veloso
Fina Estampa Ao Vivo




150_7

David Lynch
Good Day / I Know




150_8

Grady Tate
Movin' Day





REVIEW|TRACK LIST
01. Elizete Cardoso / Estrada Branca (Discmedi)
02. Milton Nascimento E Jobim Trio / Esperança Perdida (EMI)
03. Caetano Veloso / Cucuruccu Paloma (Verve)
04. Hibari Misora / Cucuruccu Paloma (Columbia)
05. Esther Ofarim / Speak Low (Bureau B)
06. Sarah Vaughan / Fever (Verve)
07. Bill Evans / Peace Piece (Riverside)
08. Ólafur Arnalds / Fok (Erased Tapes)
09. Elan Mehler / Scheme For Thought (Brownswood)
10. United Future Organization / Np Problem piano mix (Avex)
11. Matthew Herbert / Cafe de Flore-Trio Reprise (K7)
12. Dan Ecclestone Band / Rushes I (Inpartment)
13. Lonnie Liston Smith / Quiet Dawn (Flying Dutchman)
14. Quasimode / 1000 days for spirit (Inpartment)
15. Monica Zetterlund / Waltz For Debby (Monicas Vals) (Universal)
16. Blossom Dearie / Tout Doucement (Universal)
17. Buddy Sativa / Waltz for the Leaving Souls (Favorite)
18. Takeo Moriyama Quartet / Watarase (Solid)
19. Mike Westbrook / Waltz (Dream)
20. Karin Krog Quartet / My Favorite Things (Meantime)
21. Lorez Alexandria / Nature boy (Deep Roots) (Cadet)
22. David Lynch / I Know (Sunday Best / Beat)
23. Portishead / Humming (Go Disc)
24. Nostalgia 77 / Sleepwalker (Tru Thoughts / Beat)
25. Monte Carlo 76 / God Pulled The Plug On Us (Barrio Gold Records)
26. Gotan Project / De Hombre A Hombre - Nicolas Repac remix (Discograph)
27. Grady Tate / Moondance (Janus)




Toshio Matsuura | Program's 1st Anniversary, 2-Hour Special


The Quiet Passion Behind the Products──


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) (2)




“visvim That Others Wear”



MatsuuraTonight, we have Hiroki Nakamura, the designer of "visvim." It's difficult to categorize him – he's not just a world-renowned shoemaker from Tokyo, nor is "fashion brand" an adequate description. How should I refer to the brand, visvim?

NakamuraThat's a good question. It feels like it just became this way without me really noticing (laughs).




MatsuuraHas it been about 10 years now?

NakamuraYes, we celebrated our 10th anniversary last year.

MatsuuraI first learned about visvim about 10 years ago. A record label director, who was a "street fashion otaku," was wearing these shoes, and when I asked "Where are they from?" he said visvim. Since I have large feet myself, I could never find visvim shoes that fit, so I've always thought of them as "visvim that others wear." I currently represent two overseas artists: Giles Peterson, a DJ from London, and Simon Taylor from Tomato. Both of them are fans of visvim and started wearing different types of their shoes about five or six years ago, which I found interesting. To me, the products have a Tokyo sensibility. Perhaps you don't consciously aim for that, Mr. Nakamura, but the results feel distinctly Tokyo-like. What are your thoughts?

New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) 01

Mr. Hiroki Nakamura




NakamuraPerhaps because I spent a lot of time traveling abroad when I was younger, I don't feel the need to consciously focus on Japan. I started the brand without considering whether the market was in Japan or overseas. Japanese aesthetics naturally emerge in my output without conscious effort, so I don't think about it much.

MatsuuraEven without conscious effort, it feels very Japanese. I feel it's more accurate to say you "evolve and present" traditional or primitive elements rather than "revive" them for the modern era. That's probably why they are readily accepted overseas and why you have so many fans. I believe this extends to your stores' displays and interiors as well. Is that intentional?

The First Point of Contact Between Product and Customer: We Want Them to Feel Comfortable



NakamuraFrom the beginning of the brand, I've wanted to create a brand where the products are the protagonists. We create new items roughly every six months. For the shops, I envision them as spaces where customers and products meet. I've always set the store itself as a neutral ground, a place for customers to experience the products, and designed and built the shops accordingly.

MatsuuraYou focus on the products. The Harajuku store, in particular, has an atmosphere like an art gallery, with the products displayed so comfortably. I really like that space. I've only seen photos of the Kyoto store, but I understand it's a renovated traditional Japanese house. Was there a particular reason for that?

New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) 02

NakamuraWhen I first thought about creating a shop, I considered what kind of store would be ideal for showcasing my products and visited many other brands' stores. However, I felt something was missing. Then, while visiting an art gallery, I had an idea: perhaps a neutral space like this would allow customers to view products more comfortably. Since this is the first point of contact between the customer and the product, I wanted to create a place where they could feel at ease. I asked an architect who specializes in art galleries to design it. A neutral space like an art gallery, yet one that offers a sense of comfort – incorporating elements like natural light, greenery, and vintage showcases in a balanced way. I felt that a space composed entirely of new elements might feel a bit cold, so we aimed for that balance in the Tokyo store.




Regarding the Kyoto store, the traditional house was originally the "Matsuya" doll shop. It had beautiful showcases, and the doll shop itself was a long-standing establishment that had been passed down for 16 generations. However, the number of Kyoto artisans was dwindling, making it difficult to produce many dolls. They decided to close the shop. Hearing this story deeply moved me. As someone who creates things, I felt a profound connection to their dedication. I wanted to share that with our customers, so I asked the owner of "Matsuya" if we could use the shop as it was.


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) 03

F.I.L. KYOTO Photo: Hiroyuki Hirai




Even now, the showcases used by Matsuya are still outside the shop. I thought they were far better than anything I could find myself, and the building itself didn't seem to need much alteration. We did make some minor changes to the flooring and lighting, but I felt that preserving its original state would create a more fitting and wonderful space for my concept, so we've kept it largely as it was.




Toshio Matsuura | Program's 1st Anniversary, 2-Hour Special


The Quiet Passion Behind the Products──


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) (3)




Creating Something That Evokes Emotion



MatsuuraI noticed the distinct scent when entering the store; you also create original candles, don't you?


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) 04



NakamuraI commissioned a perfumer living in Paris to create them. He crafts very memorable scents. Previously, he designed the amenities for a hotel I stayed at, and the fragrance used there had a spirit that resonated with me, making me want to meet the creator. From there, we began the project, traveling between Tokyo and Paris. It has now become a signature scent for visvim.



MatsuuraIt's become a defining element of the brand. Moving on, I'd like to ask about your products. Was there a specific reason you started with shoes?

NakamuraWhen I was younger, I loved collecting vintage clothing and items. I noticed that some things, while appearing similar, possessed a depth that others lacked, and that's what intrigued me. So, when I decided to start my own business and create products, I first considered how I could express that. Why do I find this vintage piece appealing and that one not? What is the reason? I wanted to create something that evoked a feeling when I made my own products.

MatsuuraStarting with shoes, you now offer pants, jackets, and shirts. Did you expand the range of elements to complement the existing products?




NakamuraWhen I started with shoes, I was constantly thinking about how to create products that approached authenticity. I consider shoes to be a product that requires performance within an outfit. This is because comfort and wearability are immediately apparent. Therefore, they are easier to express. Beyond just a fashion vector, multiple vectors exist, allowing for a broader range of expression.

New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) 05



When aiming to create shoes that are cherished for a long time, after examining them from various angles, I felt that focusing on wearability might imbue them with an authentic radiance perhaps more than other items. This is purely my own perspective, of course.

MatsuuraIt sounds like a laboratory (laughs). I imagine you can't achieve your vision without bringing it to life and going through trial and error. Is this process something you undertake with your team?

NakamuraInitially, I wanted to understand the entire manufacturing process, so I spent a lot of time at factories and tanneries, looking for hints within their operations.

MatsuuraDoesn't that mean your work and personal life become blurred?

NakamuraBut isn't that the same for musicians?




Toshio Matsuura | Program's 1st Anniversary, 2-Hour Special


The Quiet Passion Behind the Products──


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) (4)




Irreplaceable Inspiration



MatsuuraA few seasons ago, I was stunned to suddenly see a Cuban shirt displayed in your store. Was there a specific trigger or reason for creating the Cuban shirt?

NakamuraAt that time, I was contemplating the relationship between social systems and products. When production efficiency increases, products tend to become less interesting. Following the principles of capitalism, the way things are made often feels uninspired to me. So, I wondered what the opposite approach would be and went to Cuba. That season, I incorporated what I felt there. However, regarding the Cuban shirt specifically, I happened to encounter a factory in Brittany, France, with superb sewing techniques. I had always wanted to find a factory capable of a method where, instead of attaching pre-made pleats, they could iron a large piece of fabric and stitch each pleat individually. This factory could do it.

MatsuuraIt was incredibly beautiful. I love shirts like that, so I was very interested, but the price wasn't exactly shirt-level (laughs). Each piece of craftsmanship has a story. If we consider music as a product, it's probably similar, isn't it? Hearing your explanation, I feel that's certainly the case. Besides Cuba, you've also traveled to Tibet and the Arctic, even regions near the North Pole. For me, travel is like an adventure, and through these adventures, we gain inspiration and create something new. You seem to choose travel destinations that are somewhat removed from modern society. Is there a reason for that?

Experiencing Firsthand the Materials and Their Uses That Are Truly Needed



New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) 06

NakamuraWhen I went to Norway, the supplier of "reindeer" leather, which I wanted to use, offered to introduce me to the people who sourced the hides – nomadic herders. So, I eagerly accepted! (laughs). They use reindeer for food, clothing, and shelter, integrating them into their daily lives. I observed how materials were used in their traditional lifestyle and how that translated into products. Such experiences are invaluable sources of inspiration, providing information that wouldn't otherwise come my way. While I don't dislike adventure, it would be ideal if I could obtain that information immediately (laughs).

MatsuuraYou've also been to Tibet, haven't you? Again, it seems like an interaction with people living in a way that's not very modern.

NakamuraI wasn't searching for anything in particular; I was just discussing the possibility of going with a friend. When I actually visited, I was able to experience firsthand how they live with materials and understand the materials and their uses that are truly needed.
When I went to Norway, I was wearing sheepskin boots. I was actually testing them in -30 degree Celsius conditions. An elderly woman from the local Sámi people told me to try wearing these reindeer fur boots, saying, "Try them, even if you don't believe me." The boots had straw inside, acting as an insulator. She said it's warmer to wear them barefoot, but I was hesitant about going barefoot in -30 degrees Celsius... Yet, they were surprisingly warm. I also wore my visvim Gore-Tex jacket, but in temperatures below -30 degrees Celsius, moisture likely froze instantly on the surface, and the breathability and waterproofing functions probably didn't perform optimally due to the extreme cold. In contrast, they primarily wore wool and animal skins. I tried wearing them myself and experienced it firsthand. Then, I watched them making these items right in front of me. I gained a lot of inspiration.




Toshio Matsuura | Program's 1st Anniversary, 2-Hour Special


The Quiet Passion Behind the Products──


New Year's Talk: Toshio Matsuura x Hiroki Nakamura (visvim) (5)




Infusing My Current Identity with Today's Craftsmanship



MatsuuraWhen you translate your inspirations from your travels into your own products, how do you share them with your staff?




NakamuraFor example, not just the staff at our atelier in Japan, but also the fabric designers in Italy and the manufacturers who cooperate with me are located in various places. Initially, everyone probably thought, "What is this guy talking about...?" (laughs). But as we've worked together more, they've started to anticipate, "What new ideas will he bring next?"

Lately, I've been thinking that as the world becomes more digitized, we benefit from it, but it also leads to homogenization. This is especially true in manufacturing; things are becoming increasingly flat. Whether it's the 1960s, 70s, 80s, 90s, or what's being produced now, even leather is becoming flat. I believe our role is to prevent this flattening by infusing our individuality into the things we create. That's the key, I think.

However, manufacturing involves assembly lines. The part I'm responsible for is quite short. It's difficult to inject my individuality into that specific segment.

Mr. Hiroki Nakamura

Mr. Hiroki Nakamura




So, I try to bridge that gap by visiting various places myself and physically engaging with things, hoping to infuse my inspiration. This applies to fabrics and shoes alike. My team understands this.

MatsuuraAs a result, you maintain a unique, inimitable originality. It's the same with music. When you try to conform to the world, things inevitably become flatter. Yet, there are situations where you won't be accepted unless you conform. However, if we don't maintain that uniqueness, the struggle of the creators disappears, leading to a state where everyone becomes uniform. As you mentioned earlier, we must constantly focus on how to infuse our individuality.

True Authenticity is Found in Real Experiences



NakamuraI work with a fabric designer from Italy whom I deeply respect. They say that 100 or 150 years ago, the weave density would change if they were hungry and wanted to go home early, naturally creating texture in the fabric. Machines can't replicate that, and I believe they can't compete with that warmth. It's wonderful that some people preserve tradition, but what should we do in 2011? Simply making the same things wouldn't be productive. I believe that by leveraging the advantages of this digitized world and infusing our current individuality with today's craftsmanship, we can imbue our creations with the same radiance we feel from fabrics and products of the past.

MatsuuraI see. This is my final question. I imagine it's very difficult to maintain the drive that propels you forward. Of course, you have desires and aspirations, but is there something you consciously do to nurture that inner drive, even if it's not always clearly defined?

NakamuraIf I find something interesting, I go there immediately. If there's something I want to see or seems intriguing, I go and experience it, though sometimes it's a dead end. Even then, I try to find something from it and think about how I can expand on it. I do that, but honestly, I don't consciously think about it much.

MatsuuraBut I believe that immediate action is incredibly significant. Nowadays, information is readily available everywhere. However, finding what you truly seek is extremely difficult, and we live in a world where things can be deceptive. Therefore, I believe that true authenticity is found in real experiences. Encountering things there is crucial. Thank you very much for your time today.

NakamuraThank you very much.


MOVIE



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