FASHION /
WOMEN
May 8, 2015
Nicola Formichetti's New Frontier for the Brand | DIESEL
DIESEL
DIESEL Holds Its First Exhibition in Shanghai (1)
On April 8th, Shanghai was buzzing with anticipation for the "International Fashion Showcase" the following day. To celebrate its grand opening, Diesel hosted its first special exhibition and exclusive event. This report covers the event and includes an interview with Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti.
Text by ITO Yuji (OPENERS)
Diesel's Innovation Beyond Convention
The venue chosen for Diesel's first event in Shanghai was the historic Friendship Hall. The street facing the classic building was illuminated with alternating pink and blue LEDs, which, combined with the season's campaign visuals displayed on the building, bathed the surroundings in Diesel's signature subversive, bold, and iconic atmosphere.
Upon entering the venue, visitors were greeted by video projections and iconic products showcasing Diesel's innovation, creativity, and expertise. Items ranging from denim to watches, shoes, bags, eyewear, fragrances, and the home collection line "Diesel Living" were presented through interactive installations, offering an unprecedented Diesel experience.
Inside the venue, alongside new forms of expression, artisans demonstrated the craft of denim making through traditional, analog damage-processing techniques. Studs were applied by hand, and the impression of scissors in pockets was recreated by artisans using files, reinforcing the brand's spirit of bold innovation fused with craftsmanship.
Nicola Himself Casts Models from the Streets
During the latter half of the event, a runway show was held indoors adjacent to the exhibition space. Kicking off the show was popular Shanghai singer Momo Wu, followed by the models. The casting for this show included not only professional models but also individuals with unconventional and cool personalities discovered by Nicola Formichetti on the streets of major Chinese cities like Shanghai and Beijing, injecting a vibrant energy that dispelled the usual monotony of beautiful-yet-boring runway shows.
This casting choice can be seen as a bold decision, bringing both relatability and realism to fashion. Nicola's motivation for this innovation stems from his belief: "Street fashion has always been my source of inspiration. Observing styles on the streets of various cities around the world is part of my creative DNA, and it's also part of Diesel's DNA."
Diesel, which describes itself as "the most anti-fashion fashion brand," highlighted through this event how its core spirit and individuality stimulate the fundamental pleasures of fashion, such as the joy of wearing and the delight of dressing. Through an unprecedented blend of reality, digital experiences, and audience energy, Diesel successfully left a vivid impression on the people of Shanghai.
DIESEL
DIESEL Holds Its First Exhibition in Shanghai (2)
The Streets as a Source of Inspiration
—The models in this show didn't all seem to be professionals, did they?
Nicola Formichetti (hereinafter Nicola)Since we were doing this in China, I wanted to try something a little different this time. One objective was to use items from a more consumer-oriented perspective, dressing people in clothes they could buy immediately after seeing the show. We used pre-fall collection clothes that would soon be available in stores, consciously creating a fashion show for the consumer.
But because it's Diesel, I wanted to incorporate something more interesting, so I decided to try collaborating with local people. That's why we used Weibo for casting, conducting all casting through social media. Most of the models were Asian, and we held auditions at shops in Shanghai and Beijing, selecting individuals and having customers participate as models...
Simply put, instead of just bringing what other brands do in Europe or New York to Shanghai, I wanted to emphasize a localized event, a sense of collaboration with the Chinese people.
—How do you feel when you see people wearing clothes you've designed on the street?
NicolaIt's incredibly exciting (laughs). While I often see celebrities like Gaga or Beyoncé wearing my designs in the media, I haven't often encountered strangers wearing them on the street. So, it makes me very happy to see people I don't know wearing my clothes. It makes me think, 'Oh, people wear it like this too.'
—Does that lead to new ideas?
NicolaYes. I always draw inspiration from the streets and the city. When I'm designing, I'm always conscious of the street; my studio is covered in street snaps. My assistants update them for me with street snaps from various cities.
—Where do you see the difference between high fashion and Diesel?
NicolaUnlike high fashion, Diesel is real clothing for wearing in the city. That's why I want to study how different people style their clothes. Also, the way people dress differs between Tokyo, London, and New York. While creating collections like this is challenging for the first time, Diesel is a brand with customers all over the world—Japan, America, Europe, Scandinavia, and so on. Therefore, instead of proposing a single style each season, we focus on adding flavor to classic items. In other words, it's closer to a fresh update.
—Is it more about creating realistic clothing rather than artistic proposals?
NicolaYes, that's right. So, it's about creating wardrobes that reflect my own sensibility and what people at global Diesel envision. It's about creating wardrobes for people from various countries.
—How has digital technology changed the business?
NicolaFor example, we now receive requests from shops saying, 'This is selling really well right now, so please send us different colors.' Thanks to digital technology, we get this information immediately, so it's very helpful in that sense. While marketing has become easier, the way we design has also changed significantly due to social media.
We're also thinking about integrating communication, the web, and stores. We're planning a new digital transformation. The representative of this will be our new website launching in the fall. It's shaping up to be very cool, so please check it out.

Nicola Formichetti
Born in 1977 in Numazu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, to an Italian father and a Japanese mother. After working as an editor for fashion magazines, he gained international recognition as a fashion director for various brands. In April 2013, he was appointed Artistic Director of Diesel.
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