Kozue Akimoto's Fashion Roots, Active Globally

Tomoki Yusuke & Editor Daimaou (hereafter, Yusuke)When did your interest in fashion begin?

YusukeWere there any people you admired or magazines you liked?

AkimotoI liked visual kei and rock/punk bands, so I read 'KERA!'. Magazines like 'Zipper' and 'CUTiE' had a cute, natural feel, but 'KERA!' featured people with a more flamboyant style—punk, gothic lolita, etc.—and I always bought that.

YusukeWhat kind of brands did you like?

AkimotoHybris, Bats, Hysteric Glamour. My older sister would say, 'Hysteric is expensive, you're too young for it' (laughs). My mother seemed to want me to dress more femininely, hoping I'd wear Milk.

YusukeWas Milk popular back then?

AkimotoYOPPY from The Scanty wore it in a magazine, and it looked so cute. I wanted everything she wore. She was like an idol and a pioneer of reader models back then. It was the era of Anna Tsuchiya and Anji. Milk was always a brand I admired, so I never imagined I'd end up working part-time at Milkboy during a short summer break in college.

YusukeWhen did you start working as a model?

AkimotoIt started with salon modeling. As I was walking down Takeshita Street, someone from a hair salon approached me. Back then, there weren't many people with long hair on the street. A little while later, Sachiko from SHIMA asked me to model, so I did various things part-time, like earning pocket money. That led to me joining my current agency.

YusukeI first saw you in a Hermès catalog with your brother.

AkimotoThat was right after I joined the agency, so over six years ago. Hermès was looking for interesting people in Tokyo and heard about the intriguing Akimoto siblings, which led to them reaching out. That's how it started.

YusukeThe mix of street style and high fashion was beautifully balanced.

AkimotoHermès felt very prestigious, like a brand from another world, but for me, it was a starting point.

YusukeI had no idea you were related to Chiyonofuji, but I thought you were a great model, very interesting, from the moment I saw you.

AkimotoI'd been called 'Chiyonofuji's daughter' since birth, so I was used to it. I love my father, but entering the entertainment industry meant his presence became even more prominent. Even though the Hermès catalog shoot had nothing to do with him, it was always linked, which sometimes felt hollow.

YusukeYour father's greatness thus influences your life in those ways. Only you can truly understand it, but it's surely a good thing. I think it's wonderful.

AkimotoPeople often say 'second generation' talents are viewed negatively just because of their famous parents. People might say, 'It must be nice being a second-generation talent,' but I personally find it harder than pursuing a career from scratch.

YusukeYou've attended Paris Fashion Week for the past few seasons. When did you start going?

AkimotoAbout three or four years ago. The trigger was simply a genuine curiosity: 'What is Paris Fashion Week like?' Many models appearing in Japanese fashion shows are popular TV personalities rather than professional models. I have my own pride as a model, so I decided to go see the real thing!

Page02.Paris Fashion Week Through the Eyes of a Non-Editor or Stylist

Paris Fashion Week Through the Eyes of a Non-Editor or Stylist

YusukeHow was your first Paris Fashion Week?

AkimotoActually, my first overseas show was Milan Fashion Week. Since it was my first time, I was confused, not knowing what to look for. I'm not a writer, editor, or stylist; I'm the one wearing the clothes, the one performing in the shows. So, I didn't know where to focus. My first international collection experience ended without a clear takeaway.

YusukeDid you move to Paris after that?

AkimotoYes. When I arrived at the airport and was deciding whether to take a bus, train, or taxi to the hotel, an editor approached me, asking, 'Are you alone, Kozue?' They offered to share a taxi, and something they said during the ride has stayed with me. I asked, 'What should I be looking for at the shows? What is everyone else seeing?' They replied, 'Perhaps simply liking the clothes is enough. If you find the shows interesting, you should continue. Focusing on one city at a time will be beneficial for you.' In Milan, I didn't understand, but after hearing this in Paris, I decided to keep coming back to Paris.

YusukeWhich show did you see first in Paris?

AkimotoI've seen so many, I've forgotten (laughs). But I always remember the people I met and the conversations I had in Paris.

YusukeDo you have any particularly striking memories?

AkimotoI think it was my second time attending Paris Fashion Week when I saw Olympia Le-Tan's show, which featured Kiko Mizuhara. My concept of Paris Fashion Week completely changed. It was similar to the productions seen at Tokyo Girls Collection, and I panicked, thinking, 'What is this?' (laughs). It was so different from what I had imagined Paris Fashion Week to be. But by continuing to attend, I realized it was Olympia's signature style, and it finally clicked. Later, I even had the opportunity to walk in Olympia's shows, which reinforced that understanding. I learned that brands and designers express themselves differently, which I found very interesting.

YusukeDid you see the Chanel show?

AkimotoActually, I haven't yet.

YusukeThis is my personal theory, but Chanel is completely different from other brands. All the models look genuinely happy. You really feel that 'all women love Chanel' when you attend their shows. Seeing happy people is uplifting. I think Chanel is valuable just to watch. Please try to go if you get the chance.

AkimotoI've always wondered which brands suit me. In high school, I used a Louis Vuitton wallet because it was trendy, but the Chanel chain bag that everyone has now doesn't seem to suit me. So, in my mind, Chanel is something I'm 'not ready for' yet. I look forward to the day when I feel Chanel will suit me.

YusukeIs it perhaps because the girly aesthetic doesn't align with you?

AkimotoPerhaps. The first brand that truly resonated with me was Givenchy. I think Chanel and other brands suit everyone. But I feel that I am the one in Japan who best embodies Givenchy's strong female image. So, right now, when that feeling is strongest, I want to wear Givenchy.

YusukeBut Coco Chanel herself was quite punk. It's not just girly and cute; it has depth and coolness. There must be clothes that suit you from Chanel. In that sense, Givenchy might be more straightforward. It's like saying, 'I'm angry!' (laughs). That's also a style, a worldview.

AkimotoSince I started attending Paris Fashion Week, I've been able to see the shows of brands I love. Recently, it's shifted to thinking about which brand's look I'll wear to walk around the city and get photographed by paparazzi. For example, even with girly clothes like Chloé, I enjoy thinking about how to wear them in my own way. If I feel uncomfortable in something, the paparazzi won't even take photos, but if I like a coordinated outfit, I've had cheers and applause (laughs). That's incredibly fun. Even without speaking English, they recognize me, saying, 'She's here again,' and I post photos on Instagram. It feels good.

YusukeYou're very popular, aren't you?

AkimotoIt feels good to be in a world beyond just popularity and recognition in Japan. Overseas, my father's identity means nothing. It doesn't matter if I'm on TV or doing anything else; it's solely about how much I love clothes and how well I wear them. One unforgettable episode: I borrowed large, pointed earrings from AMBUSH®'s VERBAL and YOON, asking, 'I'm going to Paris Fashion Week for the first time, can I borrow some AMBUSH® accessories to wear there?' I coordinated everything with clothes I bought in Paris and my personal items and went to the Undercover show. Everyone there wondered, 'Who is that girl?' They took many photos, recognizing me as 'Kozue, the Japanese model.' The next day, I was surprised and delighted to hear everyone calling my name, even though just the day before, nobody knew me. It was fascinating how my name spread overnight. In Japan, you need to be on TV or do mass-market activities to be recognized, but in Paris, people appreciate you just for wearing clothes you love. As a form of self-expression as a model, it was incredibly enjoyable.

YusukeContinuing to go, how do you actually view the shows now? Are there differences compared to Tokyo Fashion Week or Tokyo Girls Collection?

AkimotoThe biggest difference might be the people there. The level of tension is entirely different. Just as I gained recognition in the world of street style and fashion, so do overseas models. Once they're cast in a show and catch people's eyes, it's like a Cinderella story. But when I actually became a model in Olympia's show, I realized that, in terms of walking the runway, there's no real difference between Tokyo Collection and Paris Collection. Back in Japan, people say, 'Wow, you walked in Paris Fashion Week!' but for me, something must have changed, yet I realized it's not about comparison.

YusukeDo you have any peers who are active like you?

AkimotoYuka Mannami (model) is like a comrade-in-arms. Like me, she's fighting alone overseas, so we share the struggles of being alone abroad and similar concerns.

YusukeWhen are the difficult times?

AkimotoLoneliness. I don't dislike being alone, but in my case, my schedule in Paris is minute-by-minute, so often I don't even have time for a proper meal. I'm wearing these glamorous clothes, yet here I am, eating salmon in the corner of my hotel room (laughs).

YusukePerhaps Paris itself contributes to that feeling of loneliness. It's a city that looks picturesque when you're walking alone.

AkimotoBecause Yuka is experiencing the harshness firsthand, she's a comrade. But people from various editorial departments feel more like companions who watched Paris Fashion Week together. I was happy they welcomed me. It started with 'Why are you here, Kozue?' and evolved into 'Kozue, you're here again!' and 'Let's have tea again sometime.'

YusukeYou can share the experience of having seen Paris Fashion Week. Everyone has their own way of viewing the collections. I continue because I love fashion. People working in companies might be assigned to fashion departments unintentionally and go to collections, and their opinions can be interesting. Once, someone watching the Comme des Garçons show said something intriguing: 'Collections are like watching an event unfold.' They found it interesting because it's something you can only understand by being there. So, everyone who witnessed that event is an accomplice, in a way. From the perspective of someone watching, thinking 'The clothes are cool' or 'That model is great,' that opinion was very compelling. Continuing to watch these kinds of 'events' is also wonderful.

AkimotoThat's interesting, and profound. Collections often make you think, especially Comme des Garçons.

YusukeThere's an element of mystery, isn't there? Wondering why things turned out this way, or why someone would do such a thing.

Page03.Individuality and Japanese Identity: The Established Identity of "Kozue Akimoto"

Individuality and Japanese Identity: The Established Identity of "Kozue Akimoto"

AkimotoI see Comme des Garçons shows because friends work there. It suddenly struck me that, despite being Japanese, I wasn't attending many shows by Japanese designers. Given my appearance—Japanese, with black hair and distinct features—I felt I should actively support Japanese designers. So, I try to attend their shows as much as possible. This offers a different perspective. When I attended Yohji Yamamoto's show, I saw many famous foreigners wearing his designs, but I thought, 'I suit this better!' I felt a sense of superiority, thinking, 'This is Japanese-made clothing, so I should be the one to wear it best!' (laughs).

YusukeThat's a wonderful feeling. It builds confidence and reaffirms your origins.

AkimotoIt's great to feel indispensable. When I'm told for any shoot, 'We need you, Kozue, and only you,' my engagement level is different.

YusukeThat's what personality is. Those who choose talent must respect that individuality and uniqueness; it's captivating. I participated as a supervisor in the YOSHIKIMONO show, where you modeled. Your face just lit up the runway. YOSHIKI had a strong preference for using non-Japanese models, but I suggested that using Japanese models would be fitting, and that's how it began.

AkimotoI've always liked YOSHIKI, and I like YOSHIKIMONO, so I simply wanted to participate (laughs). I understand YOSHIKI's desire to express his world through foreigners, but having grown up watching sumo, I firmly believe that kimonos are best worn by Japanese people. Since childhood, I've felt a disconnect seeing foreigners wear Japanese attire in kimono catalogs.

YusukeBy the way, did you eat anything delicious in Paris this time?

AkimotoI had delicious couscous with AYAKO from Addiction, Tetsuya Chihara from Lemonlife, and some other friends. We went to a place called Le Zerda Café, which felt very Moroccan. It's apparently the best Moroccan restaurant in Paris, and the vegetable tagine was delicious.

YusukeWhere did you stay?

AkimotoI stayed near Galeries Lafayette. The hotel staff were kind, and it was comfortable. Monoprix was right in front, too. I bought the salmon I was eating in the corner of my room there (laughs).

YusukeWhich shows did you see?

AkimotoI saw many. Starting with Givenchy, then Sacai, Sonia Rykiel, Louis Vuitton, Moncler, Olympia Le-Tan, Alexander McQueen, and Kenzo.

YusukeWhich was the best?

AkimotoMcQueen! I finally got to see it this time, fulfilling a long-held wish. It was incredibly beautiful. Powerful yet feminine... It was the first show that ended with a standing ovation.

YusukeIt feels like a return to McQueen's original vision.

AkimotoI don't know much about the era when he personally designed, but I like its slightly punk aesthetic. This time, the last three or so looks in the finale were stunning.

YusukeWhat else did you like besides McQueen?

AkimotoSacai was also wonderful. It's wearable in real life and spectacular as a piece. That balance is remarkable. At the show venue, it seemed like everyone was wearing Sacai! They all came dressed in Sacai. I think that's because it has a strong sense of reality as clothing.

YusukeThat's quite something.

AkimotoIt shows that it's genuinely supported, not just worn as a costume like I might do.

YusukeHow was Kenzo?

AkimotoThe production is always amazing. This time it was held at Place de la Concorde, with models dressed as statues. It was incredibly cool. I also liked the clothes. I prefer the simpler pieces over Kenzo's signature tiger motif series.

YusukeSo you prefer a more chic style?

AkimotoThe silhouettes are beautiful, and I always love them.

Page04.Fashion as Armor and a Spokesperson for Self-Expression

Fashion as Armor and a Spokesperson for Self-Expression

YusukeWhat does fashion mean to you, Kozue?

AkimotoIt's a part of me. If I want to feel strong, I wear something strong. It's like a spokesperson, expressing who I am. When I go to Paris, it's also my battle attire. Because Paris is a place for battle.

YusukeWhat kind of battle?

AkimotoI don't have the height to walk in the shows, so as an attendee, my goal is to wear clothes I love, savor the show, and be photographed. It's crucial to express my presence and gain recognition. It's about how I can stand out more than others by wearing what suits me. That's the battle in that sense.

YusukeSo, is there a difference between fast fashion and other types?

AkimotoI think there's a difference in price and value, but ultimately, once I acquire something, I treat it the same. Whether it costs 1,000 yen or 100,000 yen, if I like it, I like it. I choose and wear things because I like them, so it's not just anything goes.

YusukeSo, high-end brands and fast fashion are on the same playing field; you buy what you want from either?

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