The brand's first street-level store opens in its eighth year! What has the reaction been?

Yuma Tomoki - Editor Demon King (hereinafter, Yuma)The shop's location is fantastic. Could you tell us how you came to open your first store here?



YumaIt's nice that it's in a location that's neither quite Shibuya nor quite Harajuku.

VERBALYOON and I had a general idea of somewhere near Shibuya, perhaps closer to Harajuku, or maybe closer to Aoyama. We didn't have a strong preference, but we wanted a place that was easily accessible for people to visit, yet not a shop directly on a main road. Our ideal expanded quite a bit, and we wondered if such a place even existed.

YumaEven if it was by chance, finding a place like this was lucky. I think it's a great location.

YOON (hereinafter, YOON)Since this is our first shop, we also want to learn a lot. If the shop and office are in the same building, we can directly receive feedback from customers about which items they react to, their preferences, and opinions. We've been talking about how having the office above the shop would be ideal for the brand's growth, so we're happy it's become a reality.

YumaHaving the shop and office close together means you can see the faces of the customers who buy your products, right? It's been a month since you opened; what has the reaction been like so far?

YOONOf course, we've seen the movement of products, but we've also seen unexpected activity, such as increased sales from our online shop and additional orders from select shops overseas. AMBUSH® items often have a strong presence, so I think the image was strongly associated with being flashy. Perhaps many people imagined the shop itself to be flashy and impactful. However, we fundamentally prefer simple and minimalist things. I believe we've been able to express those contrasting aspects here. So, customers who visited might have been surprised, and perhaps those who were hesitant before felt more inclined to pick up an item.

YumaIn other words, this means you've attracted new customers, right?

VERBALYes. Since it's a street-level store, we've had people who were just walking by on Cat Street casually drop in, and some customers who came for the first time immediately purchased a large piece. Now, a month later, the actual customer reactions are more condensed than the data numbers, giving us a clearer vision. For those running a shop, this might be obvious, but for us, it's incredibly fresh to have realizations like, 'Wow, customers like this come too!' and to connect it to future product development. Furthermore, the quality of products seen in the shop is more detailed than what can be seen online, so it's very rewarding when customers can touch them, appreciate them, and then purchase them.

YumaHaving the shop has likely changed the impression people have compared to seeing the items in a select shop's corner. What do you think has changed the most?

YOONI think it's the image of the AMBUSH® brand itself. When items are displayed alongside other brands versus when they are displayed with items that share a similar worldview, the appeal is surely different.

YumaPerhaps the brand's image has become clearer. Do you have an image of what you want it to become in the future?

VERBALIt might be the same for any brand, but I think it's about skillfully incorporating the balance between our roots in "street" and contemporary relevance into our products. YOON translates my visions into tangible products, and I always aim to push that vision forward. I feel we're gradually achieving that with the shop's existence.

YOONRegarding the shop, although I haven't formally studied VMD (Visual Merchandising), I have experience observing various shops as a customer, so I'm currently in a phase of trying things that simply seem interesting or that I want to experiment with. The reason I deliberately kept the shop's interior simple is also related to this.

YumaIndeed, the space is clean and simply designed.

YOONJewelry tends to become conservative, often developed by changing materials and colors for the same design each season. AMBUSH® has established a new business model with a different style and approach compared to traditional jewelry brands, so we wanted a place where we could showcase that style. When discussing with Masamichi Katayama (interior designer), we emphasized simplicity because we wanted it to be a place that always felt new. That was a key request.

VERBALEven so, since this is our first venture into running a shop, every day is a learning experience.



YumaHow long has the brand been in operation?

VERBALWe started in 2008, so this year marks our eighth full year. I began making jewelry as a hobby around 2004, about four or five years after I started my music career. At that time, the phrase "Bling-Bling" was starting to become popular, and while it wasn't necessarily the image of rappers buying jewelry with their royalties, I initially wanted original jewelry for myself. I looked for existing pieces in other stores, but nothing really resonated with me. Then, I met a craftsman who could do custom orders with me, and as we actually created pieces, they started to be stocked in select shops.

YumaCome to think of it, the first time I saw AMBUSH® was at LUV (closed in 2010).

VERBALThen, around 2008, we started receiving orders from people like Kanye West and others overseas. At that time, we were making jewelry with a novel concept for the era, painting the base metal in colors like pink or green. Eventually, we were honored to receive an order from Colette in Paris, which led us to boldly decide to launch it as a brand. That's how the brand began.

YOONFrom there, we thought, 'If we're going to do this, we have to do it properly,' and officially launched in 2012. Jewelry is more collection-based than season-based. We had stories and ideas we wanted to convey, so we thought it would be interesting to change the story for each collection and express it through jewelry. That's why, in spirit, the proper start of the brand feels like it was in 2012.

VERBALHonestly, at that time, I never thought it would become a sustainable brand. I didn't have the intention of making it a profession; YOON was busy with her graphic design work, and fashion was a completely different field for me.

YumaNow, in addition to jewelry, you also offer clothing collections. When did you start creating those?

YOONWhen we started making jewelry, we realized the need to create lookbooks for buyers and the media. Initially, we used clothes from other brands to create the visuals. However, AMBUSH® has a strong narrative, and we noticed that it didn't blend well when combined with clothes from other brands. So, we decided to make just a top, thinking it might work, and received a surprisingly good response. That's how it started, and from last season, we've been strengthening our denim offerings.

YumaSo, in other words, clothes were necessary to complete the story of the jewelry?

YOONYes. Clothing brands often add jewelry as an accent, but AMBUSH® does the opposite; we create clothes with jewelry as the foundation.

Page02.We want to be a brand that can maintain a pure spirit as much as possible.

We want to be a brand that can maintain a pure spirit as much as possible.

YumaSo, what is the story you want to convey this season?

YOON1976 was the year punk and reggae emerged from the underground in Britain and influenced each other. We're expressing the mood of that interesting year, where people like The Clash, Vivienne Westwood, and the Sex Pistols incorporated reggae sounds, and reggae artists experimented with punk sounds, through our jewelry.



YumaWere punk and reggae genres you liked from before?

YOONBoth VERBAL and I have always liked subcultures. We like the idea of doing what we want, and it becoming a movement and creating noise. We love that purity. As creators, we don't want to lose that pure feeling that comes from within. Business can tend to erode those feelings as it grows larger. We want to be a brand that can maintain that pure spirit as much as possible. That's why we draw inspiration from people involved in those movements, and from youth culture.

VERBALI'm particularly drawn to youth culture because it's not based on logic. The idea of mixing reggae and rock wouldn't typically occur to adults. Many scenes in Japan also started somewhat spontaneously, born from a 'let's just try it' attitude. YOON draws inspiration from that, and I feel stimulated by it too.

YumaThis interest must have existed before you started the brand, even before music or graphics, and it hasn't changed, has it?

YOONI loved fashion. It was less about wanting to go to school and learn sewing, and more about being a 'fan.' I loved art and visuals, so I read a lot of magazines and books. Also, both of us genuinely enjoy wearing clothes, so it wasn't just about looking; we gained a lot of insight from actually wearing them. I believe those experiences are very important, and as designers, we want to cherish that feeling.

YumaThere really is a lot you learn from wearing clothes, isn't there?

YOONExactly. Just as women's clothing made by women differs from women's clothing made by gay men, I think jewelry is the same. Because I had a period of wearing and experiencing many clothes, I might be able to shape that into designs now. It's the same with jewelry; the perspective of someone who wears it often is different from someone who just designs it.



YumaThat's great, so passionate! I truly agree. And VERBAL, while busy with music, continues to create. Fashion and music are deeply connected; how do you maintain that relationship?

VERBALThere are, of course, both good and bad aspects. I'm fundamentally a musician, but in terms of presenting what I want to express to the world, music and fashion are the same. While YOON and I bring both to life, I absolutely want to avoid the perception of being someone who dabbles in fashion on the side while doing music. Overseas, it's interesting that people often react with surprise, like 'Oh, you were in music?' without any preconceived notions, just looking at the product. So, while I want AMBUSH® to be seen as AMBUSH®, fashion and music are inextricably linked, so I want to strike a good balance there.


YumaDoes your experience in music bring about any specific 'inspirations'?

VERBALActually, it's pretty much all like that (laughs). YOON helps me with styling. For example, even if I choose clothes from a male perspective, she advises me considering how they'll look on stage. I remember around 2005, she spontaneously added embroidery to a brand-new Raf Simons piece. I was like, 'Hey, I just bought this,' and she said, 'It won't stand out on stage otherwise.' From her perspective, it wasn't about Raf Simons; it was about the garment itself and how to make it shine on stage. Looking back, she was right, but at the time, I was quite surprised.

YOONAt that time, I wasn't trying to be a stylist. I questioned the established norms for looks: this for rock, that for rappers. When you think about it, rappers, like fashion, have individual stories, and you just need to match their style with the right pieces. I disliked being pigeonholed as 'this is what a rapper wears.' Historically, the artists who leave a lasting impression are those with individuality, meaning they have their own style. I believe they developed their style simply by wearing what they wanted to wear. I told him, 'Isn't it better to express your individuality?' Wearing the same clothes on stage as you do in everyday life is cooler, and the greater the gap between stage wear and personal wear, the more uncool I find it. Even with sunglasses, trying many pairs led to them becoming an icon. There have been many such instances.

YumaThat's absolutely right, it's wonderful. You've created a genre called 'VERBAL.' Speaking of AMBUSH®, the nail earrings are also great.

YOONThese are from the collection "HALBSTARKE," which we unveiled in January this year. We drew inspiration from the youths known as Halbstarke who emerged in Germany in the 1950s. They were young people who rebelled against secular culture and class society. Lacking money, they made fashion items by hand, even attaching real nails to denim. They were, in a sense, punk before punk existed. There's a photographer named Karlheinz Weinberger who captured those youths, and his photo book "REBEL YOUTH" greatly influenced me.

VERBALHalbstarke literally translates to 'little devils' in German (laughs).

YOONJewelry is generally considered a symbol of status, but I believe it's fundamentally a way to express one's individuality. If it allows you to be yourself and express that, the price, whether 50 yen or 50 million yen, doesn't matter. Their way of wearing things was very cool, and I want people to wear this collection freely, as themselves.

YumaWhat about the shield choker that YOON is wearing now?

YOONThis is an item from our latest collection, "SURPLUS SOUND SYSTEM." Focusing on the punk and reggae movements of the 60s, we've mixed two very different elements. The apparel items are also characterized by deliberately oversized and relaxed fits.

VERBALWe're often inspired by DIY. Hip-hop, for instance, started from the idea of how to express one's individuality with limited resources, and we're often inspired by such scenes.

YOONWe often take our ideas to the factory, and the manufacturers make unhappy faces. I thought, 'Can't we do this?' with a positive outlook, but they've told us it's difficult many times.

VERBALThe difficulty in communication was quite significant from the beginning of the brand. For example, the first ring we made had a crown on top of the finger. When I said, 'I want to make this,' they replied, 'It's difficult. What if it falls off?' and 'No, no, don't think about that, just make it for now.' It started like that. However, since then, we've established a process of direct communication with suppliers and factories, conveying our intentions, so now everything proceeds very smoothly.


YumaWhen trying to create something new or interesting, it's natural for people to be perplexed at first, isn't it?

YOONBut in the end, everyone is pleased when it's realized. We share a sense of accomplishment, thinking, 'It can be done!'

VERBALAlso, when the manufacturers visit the shop or see artists actually wearing our pieces, they seem pleased.

YumaMany celebrities wear AMBUSH® accessories. Could you share any interesting or surprising anecdotes?

YOONRecently, around last Christmas. Kris Jenner (mother of Kim Kardashian, Kanye's wife) contacted us, saying she wanted to give something to Kanye West and needed it by December 24th. It would be ready on the 23rd, so I replied, 'If it's FEDEX, it will arrive by the end of the year,' but she insisted, 'It has to be on the 24th!' In the end, we had one of our staff members fly to LA for a same-day return trip (laughs).

VERBALWe have quite a few situations like that. Skrillex wanted to wear a bracelet he saw at our Paris exhibition at the Grammy Awards, and he also wanted his logo added to it. The exhibition was in January, so I told him it would arrive in June, but he said the Grammys were in February, 'Oh, right!' (laughs). I replied that I'd try my best but couldn't guarantee it would be ready, and he passionately conveyed, 'It'll be a problem if it's not ready. I absolutely want to wear it!' This was actually shortly after the gift for Kanye I just mentioned, but again, the same staff member hand-carried it to LA. They said, 'Again!?' (laughs).

YOONThey went consecutively, so it felt a bit unfair. December 24th is Christmas Eve, and most shops are closed...

VERBALI told them, 'It's a same-day trip, but since you're there, enjoy LA!' but everywhere was closed. International courier services were also closed, which was surprising! At times like that, I wish they'd just be open (laughs).

YumaThose are incredible anecdotes unique to AMBUSH®! But an astronaut said that London and New York will soon be only two and a half hours away. Apparently, within ten years, the whole world will be accessible for same-day trips (laughs).