Terumi Hagiwara Series vol.145 | Big Brands Challenge New Volume
FASHION / WOMEN
April 14, 2016

Terumi Hagiwara Series vol.145 | Big Brands Challenge New Volume


DRIES VAN NOTEN / BALENCIAGA


Big Brands Tackle New Volume


Dries Van Noten and Balenciaga. The two major brands leading the collections tackled a new sense of volume. The key was how to contain this volume elegantly and sharply.

Text by Terumi Hagiwara





Elegance in Masculine Style――Dries Van Noten



Paris Autumn/Winter 2016. Dries Van Noten presented a collection full of excitement while staying true to his own world. This season, he challenged himself with a "fusion of genders" created with a generous sense of volume.

Dark eyeshadow and a masculine hairstyle. The first look featured a white shirt, a velvet tuxedo jacket, and pants with a voluminous animal print. They were sharp yet feminine. An emblem on the chest, like a uniform, exuded a sense of cleanliness. A navy jacket with white piping and a V-neck vest were paired with generously pleated pants. The velvet-touch animal material used for coats and knits was all faux. Cocoon-sleeved coats and blousons emphasized femininity while creating volume. Feather chokers and sheer, tattoo-patterned bodysuits and gloves enhanced the elegance. Green was a striking color.





Demna's Style Challenges New Balance――Balenciaga



This was the debut collection for Balenciaga under artistic director Demna Gvasalia.

The style featured straight shoulders, angular sleeves, a moderately cinched waist, and flared hips. The cocoon-sleeved knits and sweatshirts echoed the balance Demna presented with his own brand, Vetements, last season. At Balenciaga, this was further refined. Layered looks with shirts, hoodies, and riders, along with off-the-shoulder styles, appeared frequently. This styling has already influenced other brands. Cocoon silhouettes, jackets with emphasized shoulders, and Basque-style hip protrusions. While tracing Balenciaga's signature lines, the collection was modernized with the addition of biker jackets and hoodies. Couture taste felt much more accessible. I'd love to wear the skirt, which folds dramatically at the front, with mountain boots. These are contemporary pieces that convey volume despite their straight lines.







Terumi Hagiwara



Terumi HAGIWARA
Fashion Director
She covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections every season. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers, and also directs select shops.
Official Blog http://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/