FASHION /
WOMEN
March 29, 2016
Terumi Hagiwara Series Vol. 144 | Paris Collections Autumn/Winter 2016: Stability and Ambition
KOCHÉ / VALENTINO
Paris Autumn/Winter 2016: Stability and Ambition
Amidst a string of designer departures at luxury houses, Valentino showcased its consistent strength, leading the collections. Meanwhile, Koché's ambitious creations, reminiscent of the guerrilla shows of the 80s and 90s, also captured attention.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
Real Couture! Young Power Inspired by the 80s: Koché
This is the Paris Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. Following a series of designer resignations at luxury brands, Dior and Lanvin presented their collections without a lead designer, relying on their in-house teams. Amidst this, a notable new designer emerged, stealing the spotlight.
Koché is a brand designed by newcomer Christelle Kocher. Last season, they presented a standing-room-only show in the Place des Vosges, and this season, their show took place under the arcades near the Porte de Saint-Denis. It evoked the guerrilla shows that marked the emergence of Belgian fashion in the 80s, but these are garments crafted with abundant couture techniques. On velvet jackets, beads, lace, and even vinyl are meticulously hand-sewn. The lining of a colorful feathered coat is made of jersey. Christelle, aiming for "wearable couture," states, "I want to liberate the collection from its confines. That is real couture."
Valentino: The Epitome of Luxury
Valentino demonstrated its consistent strength as a luxury brand. This season, ballerinas served as the inspiration. Models moved serenely to live piano music. Simple bias-cut dresses were layered over leotards, and tutus peeked out from beneath long military coats, swaying delicately. A thick-belted bag was worn crossbody, paired with mountain boots. This created a sense of dynamism within the tranquility. From knitwear layered with sequined dresses to fur boleros over tutu dresses, each piece was both real and luxurious. Dresses in layered pink-beige evoked the warm, captivating hue of a woman's skin.

Terumi HAGIWARA
Fashion Director
She covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers, and also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/





