POGGY’S FILTER|vol.10 Yoshifumi "YOPPI" Egawa, AKEEM THE DREAM (Part 2)
FASHION / MEN
November 5, 2019

POGGY’S FILTER|vol.10 Yoshifumi "YOPPI" Egawa, AKEEM THE DREAM (Part 2)

In the 10th installment of 'POGGY'S FILTER,' we welcome Yoshifumi "YOPPI" Egawa, who has been deeply involved in Tokyo's street scene as a skater since the late '80s, and AKEEM THE DREAM. This second part focuses on their interactions with FUTURA, STASH, and KAWS, cultivated through their involvement with the Harajuku shop HECTIC. The numerous products born from their collaborations with these three, who continue to profoundly influence today's street fashion scene, are now legendary. Their numerous endeavors were undoubtedly at the forefront of their time. We gathered invaluable testimonies from these key figures who shaped the Ura-Harajuku street culture, and delved into their philosophies not only on fashion but also on skating and graffiti.

Interview by KOGI “Poggy” Motofumi | Photographs & Text by OMAE Kiwamu

Futura's Coolness: Never Selling Out

POGGYCould you tell us how HECTIC connected with Futura and Stash?

YOPPIWhen Shin (Sk8thing) was doing design at A BATHING APE, we used to visit him often and hang out at the NOWHERE office. During one of those times, Shin mentioned, 'Stash is supposed to come by the office,' and asked, 'Don't you want to meet him?' So, we went to the office to greet Stash. He seemed nervous too. We were also a bit tense because we had only been buying his products up to that point (laughs).

POGGY(Laughs)

YOPPIWe met Stash a few times at the NOWHERE office during that period. One day, he mentioned he had visited a shop called HECTIC. When I said, 'I run that shop,' he asked, 'Would you be interested in carrying SUBWARE?' It seemed Stash was in Tokyo looking for a distributor for SUBWARE, and he must have liked HECTIC when he saw it on the street. That's how the offer came directly from him, and we started communicating.
AKEEMFrom there, we went on to create RECON together and launched a joint brand called NYJP.

YOPPIFutura also started PROJECT DRAGON with Stash.

POGGYSo, PROJECT DRAGON came after SUBWARE, and then RECON?

AKEEMThat's right.

YOPPIStash and Futura shared an office back then, so when we went to New York, we'd meet Futura there. Futura's studio space was incredibly cool, and we'd go check it out every time.

POGGYWhere in New York was that?

YOPPIAround 39th Street in Manhattan, Midtown, basically. Later, the studio moved to Brooklyn. Their influence made us start investing in our own office space, even though we should have been focusing on the shop. What were we even doing? (laughs). The backgrounds in interviews from that era were just insane.

AKEEMThey started by creating an inspiring space and environment for themselves to create art.
POGGYIn the early '80s, graffiti writers weren't recognized as artists yet, but Futura held a solo exhibition at a major gallery and gained attention, receiving treatment like a rock star. What do you think led to him gaining such support?

AKEEMI think graffiti artists started gaining attention just before 'Wild Style' was released. It might seem obvious, but perhaps it was because graffiti was considered dangerous and illegal art. You could get arrested if caught, and they were risking their lives painting on NY subway trains.

YOPPII don't know much about the '80s, but I later learned it had become a major social issue in New York.

AKEEMEvading the police and public eye to leave their art behind. In the end, no one knew who did it, but a full-color piece painted at the risk of one's life could move people in the city. It's like a superhero story, isn't it? (laughs).

POGGYIn 'Wild Style,' there was a scene depicting graffiti, which was originally a street art form, being painted on canvas and exhibited in a gallery, right?

AKEEMThere was. But the protagonist, played by Lee Quinones, resisted because he didn't want his identity revealed. Ultimately, his work gained significant attention through a certain method (laughs).

POGGYI heard Futura was originally supposed to play the lead in 'Wild Style,' but he turned it down to go on tour with The Clash.
YOPPIFutura, both then and now, probably is very careful about not becoming too famous or hyped. That's likely why he didn't appear in the movie.

AKEEMHe's continued without selling out. While his style and techniques may have evolved, his philosophy remains unchanged from the wild style of the '80s.

YOPPIBut aren't we at a point where that balance might start to shift again?

POGGYExactly.

AKEEMPerhaps it's collaborations like the one with Louis Vuitton? The way art is presented might change with the times, but Futura's philosophy remains constant, making him seem like an astronaut always ahead of the changing times. Whether it's Louis Vuitton or anyone else, he's always wild style, making him timeless.

YOPPII agree, but not everyone sees it that way, so perhaps there's an internal conflict? I think the difference between the '80s and now isn't that significant. He likely places importance on maintaining a balance when it comes to public exposure, and he's skilled at that.

AKEEMIndeed. He has that sense of balance.

Graffiti and Skateboarding: The Forefront of DIY Art

POGGYI've always wanted to ask, is it true that Stash brought KAWS with him?

YOPPIYes. Stash was also the reason I was introduced to KAWS at Futura's place.

AKEEMAt the time, KAWS was like a young graffiti kid from New Jersey, but he was incredibly talented. I think he was also working in animation. Stash has many graffiti friends, so he used to connect with these young artists. There's a T-shirt with the Statue of Liberty on it; I believe that was KAWS's first T-shirt released by SUBWARE. Later, we learned he was part of the Fame City crew. He also released various items in the Artist Series.

YOPPIESPO was involved, and so was REAS (Todd James). Stash was quick to connect with them.

POGGYWas Futura more of the artistic visionary, while Stash handled the business side, bringing people together and introducing them?

AKEEMI think so.
POGGYAfter that T-shirt, did you and KAWS create toys and watches together at HECTIC?

YOPPIWhen I first met KAWS at Futura's place, we hit it off immediately and talked about doing something together. We decided to create a heart-shaped cushion as a Valentine's Day item to appeal to girls. That led to us making watches, Companion figures, and even Miffy plush toys together.

POGGYDid KAWS then connect with A BATHING APE and UNDERCOVER after that?

YOPPIYes, that's how it happened.

AKEEMInitially, HECTIC strongly emphasized KAWS's graffiti aspect. We had him paint 'KAWS' in lettering on the shop walls, and many of the products focused on his graffiti. However, KAWS possessed significant potential beyond graffiti, including character design and animation skills, which allowed him to collaborate with various brands on diverse styles of products.


POGGYI believe that graffiti writers being able to convey their art through products was partly due to their perspective on graffiti. Similarly, skaters use their boards as a canvas and support young artists. They are also open to street art, and I believe the current expansion of art owes a lot to skaters. What do you think?

AKEEMIt's not a small influence; it's definitely significant.

POGGYI think T-shirts, for example, with graphics intentionally added for advertising, also stem from a skater's mindset.
YOPPIWhat's interesting about skaters is how they apply stickers. When a board breaks, they're constantly applying stickers, which naturally creates a collage-like effect.

AKEEMThey draw on the board or customize it themselves. That aspect might connect with graffiti.

YOPPIIsn't Mark Gonzales the ultimate example of that? While Neil Blender might be at the pinnacle, Mark Gonzales's style is more like doodling, which is closer to graffiti.

AKEEMFutura is at the pinnacle of graffiti. His sense for creating products is amazing, as is his artwork. The way he presents his vision is so cool.

YOPPIPerhaps KAWS is the best at finding a mainstream appeal?

AKEEMBut I think Futura is KAWS's role model, his godfather.

YOPPIThat's true. You can't talk about Futura without mentioning Stash.

AKEEMFutura might be focusing more on galleries now, with so many people creating products. But perhaps after this phase, he'll want to create products again; that might be Futura's timeline. He's mentioned starting FUTURA LABORATORIES, which feels like another perfect timing.

POGGYHe's been handing out these neck straps to people he meets recently. It's interesting how the colors differ, like the blue ones in Paris.
AKEEMIt's like how they used to hand out promotional items at trade shows, saying, 'Come check out my brand!' (laughs).

YOPPIBut it still feels good to receive them.

AKEEMI've been seeing glimpses of FUTURA LABORATORIES products on Instagram, and they're quite interesting. Like the ones using safety vests. Even with the workwear motifs he's using lately, Futura's take on them feels different.

YOPPIIt feels universal.

POGGYFinally, regarding what you both are doing now, is your background as skaters significant?

YOPPIYes. It's everything.

POGGYNormally, people just walk without thinking, but from a skater's perspective, they might think, 'Wouldn't it be fun to do a trick here?' They're constantly thinking like that, and since they do it every day, it becomes a habit. It's like they're always anticipating what's next.

YOPPIIsn't that the same for you, Koggy-san? When you go to exhibitions, you're thinking about what clothes will be next, aren't you? There's not much distinction between work and personal life.

AKEEMThat's true.
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