FASHION /
MEN
May 8, 2015
Tomoki Yushin Talks | Vol. 3 Designer Thom Browne
Tomoki Sukezane Interview Vol. 3
Guest of Vol. 3: Designer Thom Browne (1)
It's been over a year since the Tokyo flagship shop of "THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK" opened in Minami-Aoyama. To commemorate this, Thom Browne visited Japan. We took this opportunity to ask him about the shop, his shows, health management, and even pajamas.
Interview & Text by SUKEZANE TomokiInterview Photographs by JAMANDFIX
The THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK Shop: Now a Tourist Destination
Tomoki Sukezane (hereinafter, Sukezane):It's been a while.
Thom Browne (hereinafter, Browne):It really has.
Sukezane:The shop in Aoyama has been open for over a year now. I realized I'd never properly asked you about it, so I wanted to start there. Your shop is directly across from the building where my office is, so I see it every day (laughs).
Browne:So you've been watching it even more closely than I have.
Sukezane:Exactly. I love this neighborhood and that's why I chose this location for my office. What made you choose this particular spot?
Browne:I don't know Tokyo that well, but I've always liked this area. It's quiet, being a block away from the main street, and it just felt right.
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK AOYAMA
Photo: Takumi Ota
Sukezane:I see. Sometimes I think about moving to a larger space, but I can't seem to leave this area. When I decided to set up my office here, the location of your shop's building was a large parking lot. It was quite dark at night and had a completely different atmosphere than it does now, but it still had a strangely calming feel. Now, with all the new shops, it's become a street that attracts many people, including tourists from overseas, especially on weekends. I often see people taking photos in front of your shop's wall. Some even bring changes of clothes to change into for their photos. I suspect fashion magazines might be doing impromptu photoshoots here too.
Browne:Oh my, we should be charging a location fee for that (laughs).
Sukezane:When I searched for THOM BROWNE online, I found a feature on your Seoul store, which looked incredibly stylish.
Browne:The Seoul store is inside the GALLERIA department store and only carries womenswear.
Sukezane:Ah, I see. But even though the spaces are different, your shops in NY, Aoyama, Dover Street Market Ginza, and Galleria in Seoul all share a unified atmosphere. What is the key to this consistency?
Browne:For the DOVER STREET MARKET GINZA, the space is smaller, so it's more conceptual, but I believe maintaining a consistent image is important. Therefore, we always use the same materials in our shops: namely, grey marble and terrazzo, and blinds are always included. The Galleria store in Seoul is womenswear-only, so we incorporated the image of the "Four Seasons" restaurant in NY.
Sukezane:I've only seen the Galleria store online, but it has a wonderful ambiance. However, I don't think it uses grey marble, does it?
Browne:That's right, because it's a womenswear store, it doesn't use grey marble. But our menswear store in Seoul (10 corso como) does use it.
Sukezane:I'm not very familiar with womenswear, but do you carry it anywhere in Tokyo?
Browne:Yes, on the second floor of the Aoyama shop!
Sukezane:Oh, really? (chuckles wryly) I always just go to the men's floors on the first and basement levels... The basement is great, especially the area where you can have champagne (laughs).
Browne:I'm hoping to create a similar bar space in the NY store.
Sukezane:That would be great. The bar space in Aoyama is really wonderful. I wish it were open as a bar.
Browne:Okay, let's consider it (laughs).
Tomoki Sukezane Interview Vol. 3
Guest of Vol. 3: Designer Thom Browne (2)
What Inspires Thom Browne's Travels?
Sukezane:From an outsider's perspective, you seem incredibly busy with various activities beyond your own brand. As far as I know, you present menswear in Paris and womenswear in NY twice a year, plus there's "Moncler Gamme Bleu," isn't there? And you've designed costumes for "QUEENS OF THE NIGHT" and "NEW YORK CITY BALLET." What's truly admirable is that there's no compromise in any of these endeavors. I have immense respect for that.
Browne:Thank you.
Sukezane:In the spring, I ran into you at the Milan Salone.
Browne:I wasn't there for the Salone itself, but for a Moncler Gamme Bleu meeting.
Sukezane:Does this kind of mobile lifestyle have any impact on your creativity?
Browne:Yes, it does. For me, most of my ideas come to me on airplanes. When I'm in NY, I have many distractions at the office, but on a plane, I don't need to talk to anyone and have quiet time to myself. It's the perfect place to think deeply about things. I design most of the show's structure and direction while on flights.
Sukezane:Whether good ideas come or not, I also enjoy the time spent on airplanes. Do you have any favorite airlines?
Browne:Hmm, it varies depending on the destination. When flying from NY to Milan, I use Emirates.
Sukezane:Emirates is great, isn't it? Do they have a direct flight from NY to Milan?
Browne:Yes, they do.
Sukezane:Wow, that's nice. There aren't any from Tokyo...
Browne:The door closes with a 'whoosh' to become a private suite, and you can set it to 'Don't Disturb'.
Sukezane:It sounds like a hotel. I'd love to try it.
Browne:They also serve very delicious champagne. Speaking of which, the flight I took from NY to Tokyo this time departed at 12:30. My policy is usually to refrain from drinking champagne until the evening, but when I saw Krug champagne during the first drink service, I couldn't resist (laughs). It was still quite early.
Sukezane:That kind of policy... I break it very easily too (chuckles wryly).
Browne:But that doesn't mean I'm an alcoholic (laughs).
Sukezane:Even though you drink champagne on the plane, I recall you mentioning before that you used to wake up early every morning to run 8 miles. Do you still keep up that habit?
Browne:Depending on my work schedule for the day, there are days I don't run. If I have an early morning commitment, I might run in the afternoon. Lately, to avoid injuring my knees and back, I tend to run at the gym.
Sukezane:Do you run when you're in Tokyo?
Browne:In Tokyo, I use the gym at the hotel where I'm staying.
Sukezane:Speaking of which, the main building of the Hotel Okura, which you also like, is being rebuilt, isn't it?!
Browne:That's right. But I've heard they plan to preserve the lobby and relocate the Orchid Bar to the South Wing. I often have breakfast at the Orchid Room, so I couldn't help but ask them to please leave it as is (laughs). The staff seem very disappointed too.
Sukezane:I'm truly sad that it's going to be torn down. How about holding a show there before it's demolished?
Browne:The US Embassy is nearby too... Let me think about it.
Sukezane:Getting back to our conversation, with all your traveling, do you ever suffer from jet lag?
Browne:When I first started coming to Tokyo, I suffered quite badly from jet lag, but I've gotten used to it now.
Sukezane:Really? You can get used to jet lag? I never seem to. Especially when I go to Europe, it takes me a long time to recover, which is a problem. Some people never seem to get jet lag; I wonder what the difference is. Is it perhaps related to the strength of their internal organs? Do you tend to eat three meals a day?
Browne:About two and a half meals. In the morning, it's just toast and coffee. While food is important, I think exercise also helps with jet lag. Perhaps it's thanks to exercise that I don't suffer from it.
Sukezane:I see. I should try to follow your example. Do you have any favorite hotels in cities you frequent?
Browne:I used to always stay at "The Lancaster" in Paris, but since a close friend of mine left, I no longer stay there. In Milan, it's the "Four Seasons."
Sukezane:You don't go to London very often?
Browne:Oh no, I do. Lately, I've been working with Stephen Jones on hats, so I go quite often. In London, I stay at "Claridge's." Their bar is excellent.
Sukezane:Claridge's is wonderful! And in NY... you don't stay in hotels, do you?
Browne:If I were to recommend one, it would be "The Carlyle."
Tomoki Sukezane Interview Vol. 3
Guest of Vol. 3: Designer Thom Browne (3)
Thom Browne's Shows Are Always Full of Ideas
Sukezane:We've seen many shows in unique locations. How do you decide on the venue?
Browne:The production company is based in Brussels, Belgium, and we decide together through discussions with them.
Sukezane:You also held a show at the French Communist Party headquarters, didn't you?
Browne:That was Oscar Niemeyer's building.
Sukezane:That was incredible. It was for the "Apollo" theme, wasn't it?
The show was held at the French Communist Party headquarters, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, who passed away at 104 two years ago. Unlike a typical runway, the seating was arranged in a conference room. The models walked between the desks. After the show, as we exited the conference room, we were met with a stunning finale: models dressed in spacesuits lined up. It was a truly captivating debut collection in Paris.
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK_2011SS Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
Browne:In that case, the location came first. Seeing that space, I knew I had to have the show there, and I even changed the collection's concept to fit it.
Sukezane:The show set during a Thanksgiving dinner was also very interesting. Was that at the InterContinental? Everyone said it reminded them of the movie "Barry Lyndon." The garden show was also great, and the military-themed one was very memorable.
The venue was the InterContinental Hotel. The show, titled "Thanksgiving Dinner," featured models already seated at tables before the audience entered. In other words, we saw the models before we took our seats. As journalists and buyers sat down, the models began to walk out one by one.
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK_2011-12FW Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
Browne:That was when we used the Military Academy in Paris. It was the first time that venue had been used for a fashion show.
The show was held at a military academy. The combination of large teardrop sunglasses and a cap resembling that of a certain dictator left a powerful impression. At first glance, it might seem like a military uniform cosplay, but the details and silhouettes were infused with Thom Browne's design sensibility, making it a complete collection in his signature style. The finale, where a white flag was raised, was particularly impressive.
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK_2014SS Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
Sukezane:Hermès had shown in a different space before, but this was the first time I saw a show in that particular corridor.
Browne:I really wanted to use that space, so I pleaded with them.
Sukezane:It was fascinating. Lately, many shows involve creating elaborate sets within large spaces.
Browne:Yes, we often present them like installations now. We can also reuse elements from installations elsewhere. For the 2014 AW collection, which was a grey series, we used animals wrapped in fabric on the runway.
The production company is in Brussels, so there are many things that can't be fully conveyed over the phone or email. When I say 'wrap the animals in fabric,' the image of 'wrapping' can differ from person to person. Meeting in person to discuss is best, so I flew to Brussels twice for overnight meetings for that show.
The collection was themed "Hunter and Prey." The contrast between the cute beasts and the eerie humans was exquisite. The animals, wrapped in chic grey fabric, were endearing.
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK_2014-15AW
Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
Sukezane:Do you always travel to Brussels for meetings like that?
Browne:Usually, we communicate through drawings and proceed that way. Or they come to Paris for meetings.
Sukezane:The "Hulk" show was also very interesting.
This show featured a series of styles reminiscent of the superhero Hulk. It was a unique collection that made you imagine "what if the Hulk wore Thom Browne jackets and trousers?" The effective staging, with dim lighting, a long runway, and smoke, was striking. From the Japanese audience, there were many exclamations of "Jamila?"
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK_2012AW
Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
Browne:The location was the most crucial element for that show. We held it at the Natural History Museum in Paris, not because it was a museum per se, but because I wanted a slightly dim and solemn atmosphere.
Sukezane:Lately, many shows feature models present in the venue before the runway begins. This style is becoming more common among other brands as well. Many shows also have models standing still after the show concludes, and people take photos as they leave. You were an early adopter of this. I think it's a great approach. Everyone can see it multiple times and take photos.
Browne:We do that when we want people to examine the details of the show closely.
Sukezane:I find it interesting. A brand at Tokyo Collection used a similar approach, with models standing still. I thought, "Ah, this is Thom Browne's method!" (laughs). It must be tough for the models to stand still for so long, though (laughs).
Browne:Indeed.
Sukezane:At a recent Tokyo Collection show using this style, I witnessed a rather amusing scene. Everyone was taking photos of the standing models from various angles. A makeup artist approached with a puff to wipe sweat from a model's face. The model, mistaking her hand for a camera, seemed to feel a sense of urgency and swatted it away (laughs). The puff flew from the makeup artist's hand... The model immediately realized it was the makeup artist and tried to apologize, but everyone else was busy taking photos with their cameras and phones, so the model instantly snapped back into pose... (chuckles wryly). All sorts of accidents can happen.
Browne:Sometimes, you don't notice things while watching, but you realize them later when you see the video. For example, do you remember the "Moncler Gamme Bleu" show we did by a pool? At the beginning, all the models line up together, and since they're all wearing the same robe and goggles, their order doesn't really matter. However, there was a designated lineup, and just as everyone was getting into position, one model realized she was standing in the wrong spot and quickly moved to her correct position. If she hadn't moved, no one would have noticed her mistake, but by moving, she drew attention to it (laughs). Since everyone wore the same robe and goggles, the audience wouldn't have known if she made a mistake or not.
The show, held in a professional competition pool, offered a sense of openness. The scene where all models appeared in uniform-like bathrobes was uniquely Thom Browne. Among the models were several swimmers who continued to swim in the pool while the other models walked around its edge. It was a dynamic collection brimming with new ideas.
MONCLER GAMME BLEU 2010SS Photo: MONCLER
Sukezane:Accidents can be quite entertaining for the audience.
Browne:Something amusing happened during the Thanksgiving dinner show as well. Initially, all the models were seated at tables. There were red lamps installed at the tables, and the models were supposed to stand up and walk when the lamp lit up. However, one model remained seated and never stood up. We thought, 'Well, it's fine,' and watched, but just as the show was about to end, she suddenly stood up as if realizing it and started walking (laughs).
Sukezane:The garden show was also fun. The models walked out wearing large headpieces (the photo on the bottom left shows one of these headpieces at the models' feet). I think it must have been difficult for them to see their footing while wearing them. Each model had a designated spot to stand, but they all struggled to find their places, which was quite amusing to watch.
Browne:We practiced many times, but some models still fell (laughs).
The collection utilized a beautifully manicured garden. Models' faces, hands, and hair were painted silver, creating a futuristic show where androids seemed to be wearing the new collection. The layered outfits in vibrant check patterns stood out against the greenery. The silver wingtip shoes were also memorable. I bought a pair myself.
THOM BROWNE. NEW YORK_2013SS Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
Sukezane:You always seem the same, no matter when I see you.
Browne:Hahaha. I don't change. You, Sukezane, seem to change every time I see you (laughs).
Sukezane:That's right! My style is to change every day. By the way, do you wear pajamas when you sleep?
Browne:No, boxer shorts and a T-shirt.
Sukezane:Are the boxer shorts from your own brand?
Browne:Yes. I favor the ones made from shirt fabric.
Sukezane:What do you wear when you go jogging? Thom Browne?
Browne:Nike. For shoes, it's either Nike or New Balance.
Sukezane:Do you have any favorite models?
Browne:Since I run 8 miles almost every day, I wear out various running shoes every five weeks.
Sukezane:Wow, that's impressive. Don't you make them yourself? Running shoes?
Browne:No, functionality is paramount for running shoes, isn't it? In that regard, they are in a completely different category from fashion footwear, so I don't make them myself. When choosing, rather than color or style, I prioritize shoes that fit my feet well and are comfortable for running.
Sukezane:It would be interesting if you collaborated. So, finally, do you have any upcoming projects?
Browne:Yes, I'm preparing for the menswear collection in Paris next January. The location and the concept are already decided. The date is also set for the final day.
Sukezane:The final day of Paris Fashion Week in January is the 25th, isn't it? That's my 50th birthday.
Browne:Oh, really! You look young.
Sukezane:Mentally, I do (laughs). Thank you for your time today.