BURBERRY | The Trench Coat Reimagined as the "Heritage Collection"

BURBERRY

Trench Coats Relaunch as the "Heritage Collection" (1)

The trench coat, an iconic Burberry item, is being re-envisioned as the "Heritage Collection," consolidating its past models starting this autumn.

Text by Yuji Ito (OPENERS)

The Value of Burberry Trench Coats

Many know that Burberry trench coats have military origins. However, it is a lesser-known fact that the models that preceded them are closely linked to the history of the trench coat itself.

These are the "Tielocken" models, patented by Burberry founder Thomas Burberry in 1912. Named for the way the gabardine coat was fastened at the front using a tie and lock-like clasp, rather than buttons, this model later evolved to become the prototype for the trench coat. For Burberry, the trench coat is thus both a brand root and a treasured asset.

The Charm of Made in England

Burberry trench coats are crafted in a factory in Castleford, West Yorkshire. Here, skilled artisans meticulously apply traditional techniques and the latest technology, with generous handwork, to produce each coat.

The process involves over 100 steps to completion, each conscientiously executed by artisans to create a coat that is both robust and stylish. Attaching the collar, in particular, requires high skill, with over 180 hand stitches creating a curve that fits snugly around the neck.

Gabardine: Revolutionizing Rainwear

When one thinks of Burberry trench coats, the material that comes to mind is gabardine. Developed by Thomas Burberry in 1879, it is said to have revolutionized rainwear, which until then primarily used oiled or rubberized fabrics.

Woven with over 100 threads per centimeter, this intricate twill fabric brought a new sense of lightness to rainwear. After three stages of water-repellent treatment, it becomes a lightweight, breathable, all-weather textile.

This gabardine is still produced today in Burberry's UK factories, using only the finest long-staple cotton. Strict standards for colorfastness are also applied, and only materials that pass two or more visual inspections in the final stages are permitted for production.

Next Page: The New "Heritage Collection" Lineup

BURBERRY

Trench Coats Relaunch as the "Heritage Collection" (2)

Four Men's Styles, Three Women's Styles

While the trench coat has seen various iterations throughout its history, the "Heritage Collection" consolidates these into a new offering starting this autumn. Based on past archives, the color palette is limited to the historically significant shades of honey, stone, and black. Details such as belt stitching and epaulets have also been unified, referencing past designs. The collection features three lengths—short, mid, and long—and three fits: slim, modern, and classic.

The Westminster

The Wiltshire

The Kensington

The Sandringham

The Westminster: A Classic Silhouette

Within the collection, the "Westminster" model most closely resembles the trench coats of yesteryear. Its relaxed, classic fit retains traditional elements like raglan sleeves and gun flaps.

The Wiltshire / Kensington: A Neutral Fit

These two models offer a silhouette updated for contemporary style, slightly more relaxed than the "Westminster." Their accommodating fit, suitable for wearing over a suit, makes them ideal for business wear.

The Sandringham: Sharp and Slim

The "Sandringham" boasts the slimmest silhouette in the collection. Its compact shoulders and set-in sleeves, along with a sharply tailored waist, create a modern, almost jacket-like impression.