1989, Age 24, Paris: My Shoe Collection Gathered from Famous Shops

Tomoki MatsudaThank you for your order this time. I'd like to hear about how you first encountered John Lobb.

Tomoki YuumaWhen I moved to Tokyo and entered this industry, I was 21. I started working for Popeye magazine, and during editorial meetings, I often heard people say, "Hermès has good shoes." Originally, they were only sold at Hermès boutiques.

MatsudaThat's right. They were sold at Hermès under the John Lobb name.

YuumaIt was a trend for editors and stylists to buy Tyrolean shoes from Hermès in Paris. The first time I went to Paris was in 1989, when I was 24. Come to think of it, I bought nothing but shoes.

I bought a U-tip from Paraboot, a U-tip from J.M. Weston, a classic U-tip from J. Fenestrier, and then a caramel-colored straight tip from John Lobb. It cost about 160,000 yen back then, but I only bought shoes from famous brands (laughs).

I went into the Hermès on the corner of Rue Saint-Honoré, and although the men's section was small, the shoe department was so cool.

MatsudaHow did you wear them back then?

YuumaI somewhat forcibly paired them with American jeans and the like. I also liked shades of brown like caramel, chocolate, and Bordeaux, as well as white. I didn't wear classic black shoes. Black just looked too plain, and people often told me that (laughs).

I Wanted Shoes to Match My Tom Ford Bespoke Suit

MatsudaYou were looking for shoes to match the "TOM FORD" suit you ordered this time, weren't you?

YuumaThat's right. I just ordered a three-piece suit and shirts when I was in New York.

MatsudaWhat do you like about Tom Ford?

YuumaTom Ford suits are excellent. I always take a suit with me when I travel abroad, as I can wear it with confidence for any occasion. Originally, bespoke and sartorial tailoring can become less flexible as they age, but Tom Ford himself was dissatisfied with this and established his New York store for that reason. Therefore, even with custom orders, he can create modern pieces.

MatsudaWhat model did you order this time?

YuumaLast time I ordered the Windsor model, but this time I ordered the Buckingham model, which has a deeper atmosphere, with a classic black and white Prince of Wales check glen check. I also asked them to make the vest double-breasted, and for shirts, I ordered two of the round collar shirts I liked from last time. They said it would be ready in seven weeks, and I'll pick them up when I go in September.

MatsudaThis is also a personal order from John Lobb, but do you enjoy ordering things?

YuumaOrdering is fun, isn't it? When choosing fabrics for shirts, that's the most enjoyable part. I didn't realize it myself, but a photographer friend took pictures of me ordering from Tom Ford, and he said, "You look incredibly happy," which made me realize it (laughs). The selection process is the most fun. But I decide quickly. At the Tom Ford store, I decided in about 10 minutes (laughs).

MatsudaYou were quick this time too. What do you think of John Lobb's products?

YuumaMy image of John Lobb hasn't changed much from the old days. It's not vulgar, it has a sense of luxury, and they also challenge themselves with innovative things. I also have a strong image of Paris. I still have the elegant and soft image of "John Lobb by Hermès."

MatsudaWhen they are ready, please come in your Tom Ford suit.

YuumaI'm looking forward to their completion.

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