Margaret Howell: A "Classic Dweller"

I saw Margaret Howell's collection in London last year. It's been nearly 30 years since I first met Margaret, and her way of thinking about things has similarities to mine. It's as if she correctly examines the era, much like Ryotaro Shiba, and builds her creations from that foundation.

For example, with the fabrics for my "Akamine Royal Line," I prioritize deciding on the raw wool, considering the yarn thickness, and then determining which loom and at what speed it will be woven. Our customers also seek these low-tech qualities and nuances.

Margaret's creations are very similar to my way of thinking and expression. She is less a designer and more a "classic dweller." She gives form to daily life. While the world likes to use the term "designer," Margaret's approach to clothing is about extracting the essentials in line with the times – a so-called aesthetic of subtraction. I find her engagement with creating clothes through reduction very compelling. And what remains in the end is the quality of the material.

Knowing the "Fundamentals" of Living

I know Fox Brothers well enough to be on familiar terms with the current president, Mr. Douglas. Their appeal lies in the beauty of not changing, even as times evolve. In Japan, change is often seen as fashion's trend, but maintaining tradition is beautiful, and true heritage is passed down through constancy. I believe Fox Brothers is precisely like "Kaisho script" (regular script).

When you learn to write, you start with Kaisho script, right? You learn the stroke order and then move on to Gyosho script (cursive script). Similarly, there are fundamentals to everything – food, clothing, shelter, and even our five senses. For instance, the "fundamental" of eating is whether you can cook rice well or make good miso soup. In clothing, if you can create a beautiful white shirt, that's first-class. Anyone can make a shirt that hides flaws with a pattern.

Margaret's approach to clothing is rooted in the desire for people to wear good things for a long time, and she continues to create for a wide range of people, from their 20s to their 70s, so they can enjoy her clothes. Within this, she incorporates the mood of the times, such as military styles or the way people lived in the 1950s and 60s. I deeply resonate with this philosophy of making things, and she expresses it as an English person, while I express it as a Japanese person.

My fundamental approach to making clothes is "understatement." They are understated, yet subtly cool. I minimize the design elements and avoid making flashy clothes. Trends play no part, but I do incorporate the mood of the times as I feel it, for example, in the colors.

Men's suits have maintained their current form since the 1910s, remaining "century suits" that have not significantly changed. Through the continued wear by men worldwide, they have become a universal form for men. Wearing a suit calls for intelligence and education; it reveals everything about the person. Please approach wearing suits with sincerity, as a "fundamental" of a man's life. (Statement)

Yukio Akamine's Fashion Pilgrimage

Military styles from the 1910s, Savile Row gentleman's suits, hunting, tennis, and fishing as sports – the pastimes of aristocrats—I became interested in British tailoring and clothing philosophy, wanting to truly understand these traditional British gentleman's styles.

In my 20s, I studied American clothing in New York. At 28, I became independent and launched my brand, "WAY OUT." There, I was the first in Japan to import "Fox Flannel" from Fox Brothers, which I had learned about in history books. Shinanoya, a shop in Bashamichi, Yokohama, took a great liking to it, and they commissioned me to tailor their original navy blazers. A few years later, Mr. Osamu Shigematsu and Mr. Hirofumi Kurino, who were at Beams at the time, sampled these and created "BEAMS F."

In my mid-30s, I launched the brand "GLENOVER." Believing that "the roots of America lie in Britain," I began frequenting the UK. During my WAY OUT days, I was the first to import the Baracuta G9 model into Japan. At that time, I mostly imported finished products, but during the GLENOVER era, I actively visited British knitwear manufacturers and gained attention for creating and importing my own original designs from overseas.

Towards the end of GLENOVER, before the boom of brands like Armani and the DC brands in Japan, I experienced the Italian fashion aesthetic, which contrasted with the structured British clothing. I became captivated by the charm of Italian craftsmanship (fatto a mano) and fell deeply into Italian fashion.

If you look at my story chronologically, it might seem like I've focused on fashion by country. However, I have never considered fashion solely within national boundaries. Just as I favor British fabrics like Fox Brothers, or French fabrics from Charvet and Dormeuil, I also visit Japanese textile production centers like Ichinomiya and Hamamatsu, and Nishijin, recognizing the skill of Japanese artisans. My foundation remains firmly in Japan.

Finding Your Style Through Materials

Margaret HowellThis season, what I like about Margaret Howell's looks is, first, the chic styling of the linen knitwear (top photo, center). The phrase "no color surpasses gray" applies, and the long ribbed cuffs and hems, in a British style, are also characteristic. I love all these looks. Another favorite is the white shirt coordination, which has a relaxed feel reminiscent of director Yasujiro Ozu, creating an overall atmosphere of Japan's Showa era.

The hunting jacket's fundamental styling is also excellent, with its epaulets, cutaway front, and high pocket placement. Designer Margaret captured the essence of summer retreats in the Lake District of Scotland during the 1950s and 60s. It evokes the image of British families hiking in the region.

In all these styles, Margaret's signature is her commitment to "materials." If you can firmly establish your preferred materials or those suitable for the season, you will surely reduce consumptive shopping driven by trends. "True style" is refined in this way.


Yukio AKAMINE
He consistently advocates for the essence of Japanese gentlemanliness through his clothing creation and storytelling, pursuing "true dress for men who seek it" as his life's mission through various activities. In addition to creating his own garments under "Akamine Royal Line," he continues to advocate for the philosophy of gentlemanliness in numerous forums, including a series in the Asahi Shimbun's 'be' section, department stores, select shops, major apparel companies, textile manufacturers, and restaurants, both domestically and internationally through magazines.
http://www.incontro.jp
http://j-gentlemanslounge.com


Anglobal
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp