BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Goro Yamada Discusses
FASHION / MEN
April 2, 2015

BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Goro Yamada Discusses


BVLGARI EYEWEAR | The Elegance of Eyewear


The Path of Eyewear: Function and Ornament


Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses"



As a sharp-tongued debater, a cultural figure knowledgeable in fashion and trivia, and an artist of many talents, critic Goro Yamada continues to be remarkably active. What does this connoisseur, who has worn glasses as an extension of his face for over 40 years, seek in eyewear?BVLGARIA discussion on eyewear from a media "face," presented with the latest collection.

Interview Photographs by ASAKURA KeisukeStill Photographs by SAYAMA JunmaruText by america





"What's Needed: Lightness and Substance"




Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 02



I started wearing glasses in junior high school due to declining eyesight, and I've been wearing them for over 40 years now. I'm particular not only about the design but also about the precision of lenses perfectly matched to my vision, so I've bought countless pairs over the years...

My presbyopia continues to worsen daily, so I have fewer than 10 pairs I can actively use. Broadly speaking, they fall into two categories: "light and comfortable" or "substantial and commanding." It's almost as if there are only these two types.





While it's important for glasses to suit one's face, I believe that having the correct lens prescription and frame size is even more crucial. Using lenses with the wrong prescription or poor-quality non-prescription glasses can lead to physical discomfort like stiff shoulders or headaches. Frames that don't fit properly also look unstylish.



Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 03

Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 04




I also like watches, but unlike glasses, I don't prioritize their functionality as much. If you just need to tell the time, a smartphone suffices, and for accuracy, a quartz radio-controlled watch is best. However, I'm drawn to the "mechanics" themselves, which is why I exclusively buy mechanical watches that require more care. I can imagine a similar psychology might lead someone to wear glasses even if their vision is perfect, but I suspect that's entirely different (laughs).


"Delicate Chamfering and Unique Mechanisms Are Appealing"






Given that these are BVLGARI eyewear collections, I expected flamboyant frames with gold snake motifs, but... they're surprisingly simple and elegant (laughs).

The temples of the "Octo" feature striking chamfering, and the hinge mechanism on the "B. Zero1," inspired by a coil, is also interesting. The "Parentesi" is lightweight with a subtle design. The spring hinges make them easy to wear, and personally, they are my favorite frames.


Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 05




Functionally, lighter frames with a comfortable fit are less tiring and more convenient. On the other hand, due to my severe myopia, the lenses are inevitably thick, so without a certain gravitas, the balance can be off. Whether to prioritize function or design depends on the occasion, but for me, glasses are first and foremost a "tool" for vision correction before being a fashion item. Therefore, in any case, the primary condition is that they fit my vision, eye position, and face size perfectly.
Pursuing not only design but also function and quality. That's what choosing glasses as an adult is all about.

Goro Yamada | YAMADA Goro
Born in Tokyo in 1958. While studying at Sophia University's Faculty of Liberal Arts, he spent a year studying Western art history at the University of Salzburg in Austria. After graduation, he joined Kodansha, where he served as editor-in-chief of "Hot-Dog Press" and head of the General Editorial Department before becoming a freelance editor and critic. He is currently active in a wide range of fields, including watches, fashion, Western art, and urban development, giving lectures and writing. His books include "Hyakumannin no Ojisan Gaku" (Kodansha), "Goro Yamada no Mania Kaitai Shinsyo" (Kodansha), "Junjou no Otoko Meshi" (Kodansha), "Chishiki Zero Kara no Seiyo Kaiga Nyumon" (Gentosha), "Chishiki Zero Kara no Seiyo Kaiga Shi Nyumon" (Gentosha), and "Ginza no Sushi" (Bungeishunju). He is also a regular on television and radio programs such as "Debutsu! Adomachi-ku Tenkō" (TV Tokyo), "PON" (NTV), and "Day Catch" (TBS Radio).





BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear


The Path of Eyewear: Function and Ornament


Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses"



Interview Photographs by ASAKURA KeisukeStill Photographs by SAYAMA JunmaruText by america





Designs Unique to the Jeweler, BVLGARI



As a world-renowned luxury brand, BVLGARI's core identity lies in its craftsmanship as a jeweler, beloved by royalty and celebrities alike. This ethos is meticulously carried over into its eyewear collections, where design elements from its jewelry and watches are skillfully integrated, and a high aesthetic sensibility permeates every detail.



Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 07

Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 08

The "Octo" series features temple and screw designs inspired by the iconic octagonal case of the watch collection.




Both the metal and acetate frames exude a sense of luxury and elegance befitting a jewelry brand. The men's collection is offered in three of BVLGARI's signature series: "Octo," "Parentesi," and "B. Zero 1," with notable attention paid to the faithful reproduction of each series' iconic designs and details.



Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 09



OCTO
The "Octo" series is inspired by the watch collection of the same name, launched last year. The design motif, based on the octagonal case that is neither round nor square, is applied to the acetate temples, which are chamfered on the outer side. A glossy metal plate near the hinge is engraved with the BVLGARI logo and an octagonal bolt.





Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 10



PARENTESI
The "Parentesi" collection is inspired by the shape of Roman paving stones. It is one of BVLGARI's most famous designs. In the eyewear, the "Parentesi" motif is expressed as a "C"-shaped relief near the hinge. Its understated presence and the sophisticated BVLGARI logo on the upper temple are exquisite.





Goro Yamada on "The Dignity of Glasses" | BVLGARI EYEWEAR | Bulgari Eyewear 11



B. ZERO1
The "B. Zero 1" features a distinctive coiled design, inspired by springs and the "tubogas" (gas pipe) technique. It is offered in various items, including rings, necklaces, and watches. The intricate mechanism, with metal parts at the hinge and an enameled center piece, brings a fresh joy to the simple act of folding the glasses.





BVLGARI Eyewear Division
Tel. 03-3780-6784