Respect for John Lobb Felt Through By Request (Part 2) | JOHN LOBB
FASHION / MEN
August 24, 2018

Respect for John Lobb Felt Through By Request (Part 2) | JOHN LOBB


JOHN LOBB


Masafumi Watanabe's Candid Thoughts on the Ultimate "BY REQUEST"


"BY REQUEST" is John Lobb's highly hospitable made-to-order system, allowing customers to choose materials, colors, and widths based on over 100 current models and archival pieces.In March 2018, Masafumi Watanabe, director of Bedwin & The Heartbreakers, who experienced this luxurious servicehad been eagerly anticipating this day. With his own style as the primary consideration, he opted for the classic loafer, "Lopez," in patent leather. It was a unique idea, fitting for someone raised in street culture, but he admitted it was difficult even for him to envision the final product. Approximately six months after placing his order, what were his thoughts upon receiving his very own pair of John Lobb shoes?

Photographs & Video by NAGAO MasashiText by OZAWA Masayuki




Even Street Concepts Are Elevated to the Highest Caliber by John Lobb


Could you please explain the intention behind your order again?

WatanabeAfter I received the offer for this order, I first purchased the cap-toe oxford, "CITY II." It's a universally recognized, dressy model. I wanted to understand the world of John Lobb by first owning a classic. Then, I wanted a pair of John Lobb shoes that could also be worn casually, and I desired the loafer-style "LOPEZ," which I love, in patent leather. While not suitable for business, they can be worn from daily life to glamorous parties. I was also impressed by how comfortably I could place my order, thanks to the staff's thorough explanations and attentive service. It truly is John Lobb.

What are your thoughts now that they are complete?

WatanabeThe moment I saw them, they were a perfect 100, but when I put them on, I felt they were even more than 100. It's a different class; I felt a joyful sense of having ascended to a higher level.

I tend to be frugal or perhaps a collector, so I have a habit of displaying shoes rather than wearing them if I feel they are one-of-a-kind. However, recently, when I visited Wajima City in Ishikawa Prefecture, famous for its lacquerware, and spoke with artisans about their crafts, I reconsidered my view, realizing that 'the finer the object, the better its quality is appreciated through daily use.' While there's a part of me that feels it's a waste, I also feel that the more I wear them, the more these John Lobb shoes become my own.


WatanabeThe comfort is exceptional. The fit is superb, with no looseness. I felt my feet were enveloped, yet there were no specific points of pressure or discomfort. I was genuinely impressed, feeling I could wear them all day without fatigue.

The inner line of the foot extends very straight and is beautiful.

WatanabeMy last was a D. It turned out to be a smaller size than I expected, but perhaps because the overall balance is so well-maintained, my feet don't look small in the mirror. They pair perfectly not only with slacks but also with shorts. When worn casually, I'll likely wear them more often. In essence, it feels like every day is an upgrade, which brings me joy.

How do they compare to the many loafers you've worn before?

WatanabeEven with the patent leather, the luxurious quality of the leather is evident. Also, the balance of width and length, the shape of the oval window on the saddle, and the overall silhouette and details – they have a handsome presence.


WatanabeFor me, John Lobb strikes a balance, perhaps between French and British styles, taking the best of both. The solid, meticulous craftsmanship of British shoes is combined with the elegance characteristic of French shoes, evident in every aspect. That's precisely why they can accommodate requests from someone as uninformed and demanding as myself. While the idea of wearing John Lobb casually strikes me as uniquely Japanese, I suspect some professionals might consider it unorthodox. Yet, seeing the actual product and thinking, 'Ah, this is good too,' possesses a fascinating charm. That's why I want to wear them extensively. I'm sure people will ask, 'Where did you get those shoes?'

The deliberate choice of patent leather is the subtle brilliance of this request.

WatanabeEven with my own brand, I often have opportunities for special orders and collaborations, but they are always based on my own lifestyle and formative fashion experiences. Sometimes I add to a base model, and sometimes I remove elements, thinking, 'If it were like this, I'd wear it more.' Custom culture is ever-present; it's a process of dyeing it with my own colors in a DIY fashion.


WatanabeThis "BY REQUEST" is also a personal order, but the thinking is the same. From the perspective of wanting to make John Lobb shine in my own way, not just by displaying them but by wearing them daily, the patent leather was the right choice. However, I believe that a businessman who wears a suit every day and walks around here (Marunouchi) would have different ideals, which is why this program is so meaningful. The combination of loafers and patent leather is a personal idea, stemming from my familiarity with skateboarding and cycling, and the desire to play with the highest quality is also a craving born from street culture. It's a wonderful system that makes one fall captive to John Lobb, allowing one to consider 'What kind of requests could I make to such a prestigious manufacturer with such history?' and then realize 'Whatever is made, it will be of the highest quality.'

Finally, what kind of styles do you want to pair them with?

WatanabeIn the summer, I want to wear them with loafers and bare feet. Today, I specifically wore these because I wanted to match them with yellow, which used to be John Lobb's corporate color (laughs).

When pairing them casually, red or white socks would also be nice. It's fun to plan outfits starting with the shoes. And I realized again that they can be worn throughout the year. In winter, jeans would be good, or I'd like to play with color by letting a bit of sock peek out with pinstripe slacks. Above all, the design of these shoes is so elegant that I want to show off the hem of my trousers, perhaps a little shorter, so they don't cover the shoes. Most importantly, I am the only person in the world wearing these John Lobb shoes.


Masafumi WATANABE
After beginning his career as a model, he went independent as a designer following studies abroad in the UK. He launched Bedwin & The Heartbreakers in 2004. In addition to his work as director, he also engages in collaborations with global brands such as adidas Originals.


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