I Wanted to Create a Men's Magazine with an "Olive" Vibe

Tomoki Sukezane and Editor Great Demon King (hereinafter, Sukezane)It's been four issues since "PLEASE" launched in March 2016, and it's developing wonderfully.

Toru Kitahara (hereinafter, Kitahara)Thank you, I appreciate that.

SukezaneThat brings back memories.

KitaharaIt was an era where magazines were increasingly becoming like catalogs. The renewal of "POPEYE" that I worked on with you, Sukezane, was a great experience where we aimed to create a fashion magazine that could compete globally. Many major fashion houses wanted to be featured in "POPEYE." At the same time, I began to feel a desire to create a magazine like "Olive" on my own.

SukezaneIndeed, "PLEASE" has a world similar to "Olive."

KitaharaMy career has been primarily in men's magazines, so for the first issue, following the "POPEYE" trajectory, I featured men's brands. However, even as I was creating it, I was already thinking about doing a women's magazine like "Olive."

SukezaneDidn't you also spend time at the "an an" editorial department?

KitaharaIt was slightly longer at "POPEYE." I was there for just over eight years, so men's magazines are indeed my stronger suit.

SukezaneBut what you wanted to do was "Olive."

KitaharaPrecisely. If I were to create a magazine, it would definitely be "Olive."

SukezaneDid you have a particular fondness for it?

KitaharaI loved it. I always thought "cute" was a wonderful word. It was during the peak of stylists Mariko Koda and Eiko Nishino, and hair and makeup artist Kenji Arai.

SukezaneYou worked with Arai often, didn't you? I suppose that led to issue two of "PLEASE," or issue three with Sumire and Niina Endo on the cover?

KitaharaExclusive models from "SO-EN" and "non-no," a dream collaboration! With them as models, I expressed a clear sense of "cuteness." But even looking at their photos, you wouldn't think "PLEASE" is a women's magazine, would you? I wanted to create something with an "Olive"-like atmosphere, even though it's for men.

SukezaneIt's fascinating, the direction it's taking.

KitaharaWell, it's rather haphazard, isn't it (laughs). It has a strong cultural element.

SukezaneYou're the representative, editor-in-chief, and photographer. It must be demanding, right? Why did you choose this path?

KitaharaI don't have much money either (laughs). I was on a radio show as a guest recently, and they asked me what I'd bought recently. I couldn't think of anything, then I realized, "PLEASE," of course! (laughs).

SukezaneThat's a big purchase.

Page02."PLEASE" - Made Entirely by Magazinists

"PLEASE" - Made Entirely by Magazinists

KitaharaI consider it an investment in my life, so I feel I have to do it properly. Even when I was at Magazine House, I always wanted to create "Olive," and I've been constantly contemplating what a fashion magazine truly is, convincing myself along the way. Things you can't do at a large corporation. Things that would make large corporations regret. Things only I can do. I'm creating "PLEASE" with these thoughts in mind.

SukezaneThat's tremendous energy. What's the origin of the name "PLEASE"?

KitaharaActually, it has several meanings. Initially, I just liked the playful sound of it. But when I decided to look into it further, I remembered the RC Succession album "PLEASE" that I bought as a high school student. It was their fourth album, and the lyric card noted, "This record contains no artificial sweeteners, artificial colors, or preservatives; it is performed entirely by the band members. Please enjoy with confidence." This was because the preceding single, "STEP," had been performed by studio musicians, so this was their way of releasing pent-up frustration. Therefore, I wanted "PLEASE" to convey the feeling of being made entirely by magazinists.

SukezaneThat's a wonderful story.

KitaharaThen there's The Beatles' "PLEASE PLEASE ME." The word PLEASE has two meanings, doesn't it? Literally, it means "Please make me happy." I liked the word PLEASE, and then I discovered no one had trademarked it, so I was thrilled, thinking, "This is mine!" (laughs). But recently, I found out that JR Kyushu has been publishing a free magazine called "PLEASE" for a long time. They don't seem to have trademarked it, but their publication has a longer history (laughs).

SukezaneWhy don't you go meet them? Wouldn't that be interesting? Speaking of which, weren't you considering another name besides PLEASE?

KitaharaWhat was it... PLEASE just felt so right that I've forgotten (laughs). Also, although it's commonly used now, I wish I had trademarked "SHARE." The fact that it can be read as "share" (meaning joke or pun in Japanese) is nice. But PLEASE is a simple word that even a child can understand, so I really like it.

SukezaneIt feels like there's a continuous punk spirit.

KitaharaI like it. Fashion is punk.

SukezaneWell, creating something like this is punk in itself. Saying you're doing what major companies can't is inherently punk.

KitaharaI believe it only gains value if you continue it.

SukezaneThere are quite a few people self-publishing, but I don't think many get past three issues. So, reaching the fourth issue is remarkable.

KitaharaIt's been half a year. I've produced enough for a year. What surprised me today was getting a call from an advertising agency asking for our media kit. I was delighted.

SukezaneThat's amazing. "PLEASE" is coming!

KitaharaI hope it does. Things are finally starting to move.

SukezaneIt's coming. You shouldn't stop now. Though I doubt you intend to.

KitaharaIt's a train I've boarded. A runaway train.

SukezaneWhat's the final destination?

KitaharaThere isn't one. If I had continued as a salaried employee, thinking about retirement, I might have become too constrained.

SukezaneSo there's no time limit. I look forward to what's next. Thank you for your time today.

KitaharaThank you as well.

• To the "Tomoki Sukezane - Editor Great Demon King Conversation" list