Socks for John Lobb and First Encounters with John Lobb

MatsudaAre the shoes you're wearing today also bespoke, NIGO®?

NIGO®Yes, they are. I first ordered them about five or six years ago.

MatsudaYou've already ordered over 10 pairs from us, NIGO®. How do you find the fit of your first pair?

NIGO®For this first order, they took precise measurements of my feet and made several adjustments until they were perfect. I was very satisfied with the fit from the very first pair. I even had socks made specifically for wearing with John Lobb shoes.

MatsudaAre you wearing them today?

NIGO®I dislike it when socks show above the ankle curve of the shoe, so I had them cut to match the John Lobb shoes and dyed the threads to match as well. Since John Lobb shoes are meant to last a lifetime, I had them made to a perfect fit. It's a detail no one else sees, but I pay attention to it.

MatsudaThank you for such meticulous attention to detail. How did you first discover John Lobb, NIGO®?

NIGO®I've always dressed casually, and when I started taking an interest in suits, I had a British lawyer working for my company. He had an office near Savile Row and was knowledgeable about bespoke tailoring. One day, I bought a pair of shoes at Hermès in Singapore, and he told me, 'These are John Lobb,' which sparked my interest. Ready-to-wear shoes felt a bit loose, so I sought out a closer fit, which led me to bespoke.

Shoes are Living Things. I Want to Collect What I Truly Desire.

MatsudaHow do they feel when you wear them?

NIGO®They're completely different from ready-to-wear. They're as comfortable as wearing sneakers. Before this, I used to buy boots and other shoes in larger sizes and adjust the fit with insoles, so I was astonished by how comfortable these were.

MatsudaJapanese feet tend to be wide and short, so prioritizing fit can sometimes compromise the balance of the form, while prioritizing form can lead to a loose fit. However, yours have a beautiful shape, NIGO®.

NIGO®Thank you. I wear them with jeans and, as today, with shorts, so I prefer classic designs. Bespoke takes time, six months to a year, to complete a pair, so I want to build up a collection of several pairs to choose from. That's why I've been ordering what I truly desire to own. I want to collect what I truly desire.

MatsudaAre there any particular precautions you take when wearing them?

NIGO®Not particularly, other than not wearing the same pair consecutively. I believe shoes are living things, so I never wear the same pair two days in a row. I even give my sneakers a rest. Also, since John Lobb bespoke shoes fit your feet perfectly from the initial stage, it's mostly about breaking them in to your gait.

MatsudaBespoke uses even higher-grade leather than ready-to-wear, so the initial feeling of the fit should be excellent.

NIGO®Indeed, there's a pleasant snugness, which feels great.

The Thrill of Breaking Rules While Knowing Them

MatsudaYou're also quite active in ordering bespoke suits, aren't you, NIGO®?

NIGO®While my first bespoke order was for shoes, I still order suits from Huntsman and Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row.

MatsudaBoth are representative cutters on Savile Row.

NIGO®The jacket and waistcoat I'm wearing today are from Huntsman, and I've actually had a matching flat cap made from the same fabric.

MatsudaYou've added quite a playful touch.

NIGO®I believe it's important to break the rules while understanding them. In my case, I like to start with the basics and then do something unconventional. That's why bespoke is so interesting, and perhaps a bit dangerous (laughs). With suits, I enjoy playing around, like making a flat cap, while leveraging the distinct styles of the tailored Huntsman and the more relaxed Anderson & Sheppard.

MatsudaBespoke, by definition, involves conversation with the client. What do you communicate to your tailor, NIGO®?

NIGO®For the most part, I leave it to their expertise. However, I always ask my assigned cutter, 'What do you think of my request?' Then, I listen to their advice, such as 'It would be better to do this,' and we work together until we reach a point where they are satisfied.

MatsudaThat's crucial in bespoke tailoring. Do you have a particular fondness for British craftsmanship?

NIGO®Yes, I don't dislike the somewhat formal aesthetic. I find British craftsmanship appealing, and they are surprisingly dexterous (laughs).

MatsudaIndeed, they are also skilled at creating beautiful cars like Rolls-Royce and Aston Martin. John Lobb provided shoes for Daniel Craig's first appearance as James Bond in 'Casino Royale,' and this time, a collaboration with Aston Martin has resulted in special shoes.

A Book Featuring 108 Pieces from the Coveted BAPE® Collection

MatsudaYou also released a book in April, didn't you?

NIGO®I compiled the 'BAPE® ARCHIVES' that I've been sporadically writing on the Honeyee.com blog into a book titled 'BAPE® ARCHIVES by NIGO®.' This includes the 50 pieces published on the blog, plus an additional 58 items, all photographed by myself.

MatsudaYou took the photographs yourself? It features a truly valuable collection of BAPE® items.





John Lobb Bespoke Order Event
Held with François Madoz, Master Last Maker from the John Lobb Bespoke Atelier in Paris, visiting Japan (By appointment only)
Dates: Thursday, July 5th – Saturday, July 7th, 2012 | John Lobb Marunouchi Store
1F Fuji Building, 3-2-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6267-6011
Hours: 11:00 – 19:00 (during the order event)

Dates: Sunday, July 8th – Monday, July 9th, 2012 | John Lobb Hilton Plaza Store
B1F Hilton Plaza East, 1-8-16 Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka
Tel. 06-6346-3933
Hours: 11:00 – 19:00 (during the order event)

Reservations and Inquiries via Email
bespoke@boutique.johnlobb.co.jp

John Lobb Japan
Tel. 03-6267-6010
http://www.johnlobb.com/jp