VULCANIZE LONDON | 2011-12 Winter Warm Biz Feature: Koichi Sugimoto, VULCANIZE LONDON

VULCANIZE LONDON

2011-12 Winter Warm Biz Feature: Koichi Sugimoto of "Vulcanize London"

A Three-Piece Suit That Works Even in London, Colder Than Japan

Koichi Sugimoto, featured today, attended a fashion design school at night while working in sales in his early twenties. He trained at a Japanese tailor and also aspired to work at Richard James, a renowned new bespoke tailor on London's Savile Row. He visited London several times with his portfolio. Upon graduating from fashion school, he approached the tailor there. Although his tenure at Vulcanize London is only six months, at 26, he already exudes a distinguished presence.

Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photos by HOZUMI Hitomi (fixakey)

In Japan, Not as Cold as London, a Three-Piece Suit Can See You Through Winter

Sugimoto spent nearly a year and a half at Richard James, training as a cutter (pattern maker). "A cutter is responsible for everything from client consultations on design to sizing and fitting. I wanted to work in a place where I could utilize my experience at Richard James, so I joined Vulcanize London without hesitation," he says. A cutter plays a crucial role as a trusted advisor for bespoke and made-to-measure orders, discerning the optimal fit through conversations with the client and an understanding of subtle body nuances. His statement, "The only aspect of clothing creation where you can see the client's face is in dressmaking. That is the greatest charm of tailoring," carries significant weight.

For this feature, Sugimoto chose a three-piece suit from Hackett London, crafted from Fox Brothers' flannel fabric, paired with a knit tie from Seward & Stern. "This winter, with Warm Biz receiving unprecedented attention, the key is to appreciate the inherent qualities of the materials. This Hackett London three-piece suit offers excellent warmth; with a scarf or other wrap, it's perfectly adequate for a lunch outing without an outer coat. You can truly enjoy the fabric's natural character."

He selected a knit tie "to add a touch of casualness to the flannel suit. A solid tie would have given too formal an impression, so I wanted to incorporate a relaxed feel."

He chose Vulcanize London upon returning to Japan because, "If you're looking for a place that truly lets you enjoy Britain, this is it. Many of the staff have lived in the UK, and the shop offers items that blend the British lifestyle with Japanese sensibilities."

When asked about celebrities he admires, Sugimoto says, "I like Masahiro Motoki's style and presence. For British style, I'm also drawn to the modern British looks of London-born actors Paul Bettany and Guy Pearce." For his own winter off-duty style, he favors wearing a coat over a chunky knit.

"The proper fit is paramount for suits and coats, so please choose them with a trusted sales associate," advises Sugimoto. Aim for a smart, perfectly fitted style this winter.

VULCANIZE LONDON
5-8-5 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5464-5255
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