zootie: A Treasure Trove of High-Quality Vintage Items

Tomoki Sukezane & Editor-in-Chief (hereinafter, Sukezane)So, we've finally arrived at zootie in Kichijoji. It has a lovely European vibe. It doesn't feel like a typical vintage store.




Ryosuke Miyake (hereinafter, Miyake)The charm of this place, first and foremost, is the owner's impeccable style. His wife's taste is also wonderful. Their sense, sensibility, and intuition are all reflected in the store, creating zootie's unique worldview. Every single item they have is cool, but the mannequins they dress are just adorable. When the styling is cute, it makes you want to visit the store again and again.

1950s Italian Pony Skin Blouson ¥36,720 (incl. tax)



SukezaneThat's a beautiful pony hair blouson.

MiyakeI have a weakness for pony hair and animal fur. I love the zipper detail on this one.

SukezaneThe slim silhouette when zipped up is great.

MiyakeIsn't the knit combination unusual too? The beauty of vintage is its unique design.

SukezaneThe quality of this blouson is also excellent. The color variations in the pony hair add character.

MiyakeThe gradient effect is also very cool. I imagine it will become even more beautiful with wear.

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1960s French Navy Pea Coat ¥45,360 (incl. tax)



SukezaneThis is from the 60s, and it has the gold buttons you love.

MiyakeThe red accents are striking and lovely. I also like the embroidery on the sailor collar.

SukezaneIt looks easy to wear. The size is a bit large, but it works.

MiyakeI like to stand up the collar of a pea coat.

SukezaneYou have specific preferences.

MiyakeI also like the dense weave of the fabric. You don't find materials like this much anymore.

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1960s French Blue Work Jacket ¥15,984 (incl. tax)



SukezaneIt has three pockets.

MiyakeThe three identical pockets on the front are unusual. Actually, a friend of mine was wearing the same jacket, and it looked so cool.

SukezaneSo this is how you discovered zootie. The color is beautiful, and it suits you perfectly. It's a bit large, but the relaxed fit pairs well with wide pants. The scarf adds a nice touch too.

MiyakeMy recent fondness for scarves is largely influenced by this place. This scarf was also on the mannequin with the jacket, so I tried wearing them together. Above all, zootie's mannequin styling is just adorable.

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1940s British Hunting Vest
Green Check ¥19,980, Yellow Check ¥19,224, Wine Check ¥19,980 (all incl. tax)





SukezaneWhich of these do you like the most?

MiyakeI tried to choose, but I couldn't. They all have their own merits, and I like them all.

SukezaneThen, what about this yellow check vest?

MiyakeAs I've said many times, I love the gold buttons. The red and green accents are striking. Vintage pieces have details that really grab you. The buttons on the green vest are foxes. This is a hunting vest.

SukezaneYou call it a 'chokki' (vest). You like vests, don't you? What do you like about them?

MiyakeYes. I think of vests like scarves...

SukezaneWhat do you mean?

MiyakeFor me, wearing a vest is similar to wearing a scarf.

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1960s British Rings All ¥6,264 (incl. tax)





SukezaneI see. So for you, they were real rings.

MiyakeI've always liked rings with meaning. The ones I wear each have a significance, so I basically keep them on all the time.

SukezaneLike Indian jewelry?

MiyakeYes. For example, a snake symbolizes evolution because it sheds its skin, a bear symbolizes strength, and hands symbolize kindness. That's why I can't go without meaningful rings, no matter the outfit. I used to wear a butterfly ring, but I lost it. The butterfly didn't have a specific meaning, but I'd decided it meant 'bringing happiness' and loved it, so I was devastated. But then I thought maybe it flew away with misfortune, and that comforted me. So I wanted to get another one to bring me happiness.

Sukezane'Meaningful rings.' That's a unique and interesting concept.

MiyakeI like these glittering rings because there's no one else wearing anything similar.

Page02.An Interview with Shigeo Ueda, Owner of zootie

The Story Behind zootie's Founding and Owner Ueda's Curation

SukezaneWhere do you primarily source your items?

Shigeo Ueda, Owner of zootie (hereinafter, Ueda)Currently, it's London.

SukezaneHow often do you go?





SukezaneDoes sourcing ability come from experience and career, or is it about taste?

UedaIt might be a combination of both. Many people are running vintage shops now, aren't they? There seems to be a trend where anything old is considered vintage. But we don't really think that way; we focus on whether it can be incorporated into fashion. That's why someone like Miyake-kun can wear them so stylishly. He really embodies that.

SukezaneMiyake-kun is quite definitive about it – if you can't wear it, it's meaningless.

UedaThere's a trend of appreciating items without wearing them, or wearing things that show wear and tear, but I think it's better to wear them first and then let them develop character. It's about making them your own.

SukezaneHow long has it been since you started zootie?

UedaWe first opened in 1988, and moved here in '96. We were originally located in Minamicho, on the other side of the station. It's been about 30 years since we opened, but we've always been in Kichijoji.



SukezaneDo you have many young customers?

UedaYes, with more young people like Miyake-kun coming in, the customer base is changing. It's wonderful that old items can still be worn, like children wearing what their parents wore. It's heartwarming when they say, 'This was my dad's,' or 'My dad bought this here.'

SukezaneThat's lovely.

UedaWhen I first started the shop, owners of select shops would come to deliver women's clothing. My shop was in a building where they would pass by on their way to the station. At the time, I only had a sign up. Perhaps it was intuition or instinct? I think the store's facade was quite intimidating, but those people would come in, look around, and say, 'This is interesting.'

SukezaneI see.

UedaThen, requests like 'I'm looking for something like this, can you find it for me?' started increasing, and eventually, I began sourcing in London. I considered moving out of Kichijoji, but the people in this neighborhood are all fascinating. They might seem quiet at first, but once you talk to them, they're incredibly knowledgeable about music. Being surrounded by such individuals, I decided to make Kichijoji my base.

SukezaneKichijoji has a unique atmosphere, doesn't it? It feels like Tokyo, yet not quite Tokyo. Were you born in Kichijoji?

UedaNo, my family is from Okayama. I didn't study fashion in college, and getting into this business was purely a matter of timing. I liked DC brands and bought them personally, which is how it started. Then I learned that the design basis for those brands was in the early 60s. I started searching for and wearing those items, and someone I knew who had been to the UK told me, 'There are a lot of clothes like the ones you always wear over there.' That was around the end of the 80s. I wanted to see them, so I went to England. Looking back, that was the beginning.

SukezaneWhat brands did you like back then?

UedaI liked brands like Bigi and Takeo Kikuchi. When I first moved to Tokyo, military looks were mainstream, and the displays in the street-level stores were very cool. It was that sharp, '60s mod' look. I started collecting because I wanted to get my hands on those items.

SukezaneWhat was it like when you actually went to England?



SukezaneWhat eras do you carry at zootie?

UedaWe stock items from the 1940s to the 1960s, for both men and women. Our main focus is British items, but we also find French pieces in the UK.

SukezaneDid you decide to focus on those eras after going to London?

UedaYes. While collecting 80s clothing, I learned that its design basis was in the 60s. I liked the 60s style and went to London to see it. And the dealers in London back then had such eccentric and interesting styles. They were truly stylish.

SukezaneEccentric in what way?

UedaFor example, wearing a scarf and a tie together, like a 40s gangster style. They wore truly fine clothing. Although I have a small frame, I found pieces I liked, and when I acquired them, I realized the 40s were also great. So I started dealing in 40s vintage, and the response was surprisingly huge. Also, the prints from the 50s for women's clothing are exceptional. Gradually, I came to stock items from the 40s, 50s, and 60s.

SukezaneIt evokes the image of 40s gangsters or jazz musicians.

UedaYes. I was inspired by that. The fact that they often had the tailor's name or the year inscribed was also appealing. Back then, I was like the customers, wanting so many things. Thinking back, it was a fun time.

Page03.Shigeo Ueda, Owner of zootie: Interview (Continued)

Bespoke Shoes Crafted by Artisans

SukezaneFrom what perspective do you source women's items?





UedaMost men's vintage shops focus on American items, and while women's fashion has adopted menswear elements, there aren't that many items men can wear. Plus, we have many customers who are couples, and they seem to view vintage as more of an accessory. The 90s saw the rise of select shops, and Kichijoji followed that trend, but it was fortunate that we happened to have our store here. Now, vintage is booming again, but I don't want to be limited to just vintage. I'd like to propose mixing vintage with branded items, as that could be interesting too.

Sukezanezootie doesn't have the typical atmosphere of a vintage store.

UedaI don't overthink it, but I'm happy to hear you say that.

SukezaneIt's clean and has a sense of freshness.

UedaThe items are either tagged as deadstock or are from a single owner, so the condition should be excellent.

SukezaneIt also has a unified image. By the way, can these shoes be custom-made?



UedaYes, we offer bespoke services with various options. Our main service is full bespoke, including the creation of lasts.

SukezaneMiyake-kun wants to try making one. What's the difference between 9-part and full?

UedaIt's the difference in stitching. Whether it's entirely hand-stitched or if 10% is done by machine. However, our craftsmen are so skilled that you probably wouldn't notice the difference. Some customers even request slightly imperfect stitching. We make everything here in Kichijoji, myself and the craftsmen. If you're getting your first pair made, I think ours would be a good choice. We can do anything. Since it's hard to find old shoes, we started this service. Sometimes customers ask us to make something exactly like a pair they bought somewhere long ago, or 'Can you make one like this?' We make them according to the customer's needs.

SukezaneThat's amazing. You accommodate even difficult requests. My final question: when do you feel happiest?

UedaThe most enjoyable part is still sourcing. I feel a sense of awakening when I'm in London. There are 'incredible individuals' in London. People who make you think, 'I can't possibly match them.'

SukezaneWhat kind of people are they?

UedaThey're people nearing 70, slightly older than me. Their classic style and the sense of accomplishment they exude are incredibly cool. So, when I meet those dealers, I dress up too, thinking I have to look sharp. Then, I walk around the streets feeling like I've joined their ranks, and an elderly lady might say, 'You're wearing something nice.' If I ask her, 'Do you know when this is from?', she'll say, 'Take it off for a moment,' and accurately pinpoint the era.

SukezaneThat's incredible.

UedaWhen I ask how she knows, she might say, 'It's made the same way my grandfather's was.' That's how I return, feeling awakened. It's enjoyable. Also, talking with customers in the shop is fun.

Sukezane(To Miyake-san) If you like clothes, you should visit London sometime. It's full of men's things. A male-dominated society.

UedaIt depends on whether Miyake-kun finds things he likes. The sizes might be suitable. He's used to wearing vintage and it suits him.

SukezaneThank you for your time today. We'll visit again.

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Page04.Ryosuke Miyake on the Appeal of Vintage Clothing

The Charm of Vintage Clothing: Feeling the Atmosphere of an Era, Even Without Having Lived Through It

SukezaneYou mentioned earlier that vests are like scarves, a rather unique expression. Ultimately, what is the appeal of vintage clothing for you, Miyake-kun?



SukezaneYou can also hear from people with extensive knowledge of vintage clothing and fashion, so it must be enjoyable in that sense too.

MiyakeYes. While the objective is to buy clothes, it's no exaggeration to say I go to see them. I dress up to the best of my ability, fitting for the occasion. I want to be appropriately attired for the space.

SukezaneYou mentioned you've been into vintage clothing for three years. Your tastes might change in the future, couldn't they?

MiyakeIt might just be my current mood.

SukezaneBut I suspect your eye for clothing won't change. Whatever your style becomes, it will be interesting. This is perhaps just the beginning for you. It's great that you entered this world in your early twenties.

MiyakeWhile I enjoy the shoots for MEN'S NON-NO, spending time in vintage clothing stores is the most fun for me because I get to wear the clothes I love. Vintage clothing is the entry point, and the fact that there's more to explore makes it even more exciting. Vintage is trendy right now, isn't it? It's easy to buy, and all my peers wear vintage, but I feel I'm different from them.

SukezaneIn what way, for example?

MiyakeI think the young people who call themselves vintage enthusiasts today wear trendy items from the 90s, like slacks or Nike sweatshirts, and walk around Harajuku. If you ask them if they like vintage clothing, they'll say yes, but I'm not interested in that kind of thing.

SukezaneHow are you different?

MiyakeIt's not just anything. It's not that no-brand or cheap items are bad, but I want to wear them only because they're currently fashionable or trendy. I want to understand the background and story of the clothing before wearing it. And I want to choose cool items. There are so many vintage stores, so finding a truly tasteful one makes me incredibly happy.

SukezaneI see. In that case, the fact that it's vintage becomes irrelevant, doesn't it?

MiyakeYes, if that's the case, I might as well buy branded items. In Shimokitazawa, there are many shops where you can buy vintage slacks with modern silhouettes at low prices. Perhaps 99.9% of vintage stores in Tokyo have that style. For example, shops that select vintage items that look like Gosha Rubchinskiy's designs because he's popular right now. I'm not particularly interested in trends. I don't buy clothes based on what's in or out of fashion; rather, I want to create trends myself.



SukezaneThere it is, Miyake's unique perspective! So, what will you do if you get tired of vintage clothing?

MiyakeI've loved fashion since middle school, and I used to dress up with a brand-conscious attitude. I wore brands like Theory jackets; I was precocious. So, I don't think that aspect will change.

SukezaneAnd that's how you entered the world of vintage clothing. I don't think you'll suddenly go in a strange direction, but it will be interesting to see. Also, they say men's fashion changes depending on the woman in their life. How about that?

MiyakeIdeally, I wouldn't want to change, but there was a time when a girl I liked told me she preferred men in slim pants, so I started wearing them.

SukezaneThat's good to hear, it's reassuring (laughs). It broadens your horizons, and it's pointless to just make decisions within your own world. I believe the three vintage store owners you visited today are like guiding figures for you. Lastly, what kind of adult do you aspire to become?

MiyakeI want to become a cool adult. I want to be told that I'm cool.

SukezaneWanting to be told that is a tricky thing (laughs). By whom do you want to be told that? It probably doesn't matter if your relatives say it.

MiyakeThat's true (laughs). Everyone except my relatives, I suppose.

SukezaneKeep up the good work. Thank you for your time today.

MiyakeThank you as well.

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→MEN'S NON-NO Exclusive Model Ryosuke Miyake (Part 1)
→MEN'S NON-NO Exclusive Model Ryosuke Miyake (Part 2)

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