LACOSTE: Why It Continues to Be Loved by Professionals – Tatsuya Nakamura, Creative Director at BEAMS

LACOSTE

Episode 4: I love Lacoste

Why It Continues to Be Loved by Professionals – BEAMS Creative Director Tatsuya Nakamura

When it comes to shops that have laid the foundation for Japanese casual fashion and continue to lead the scene, BEAMS is undoubtedly the one. Since its inception, BEAMS has carried the iconic "L1212," making itLACOSTEone of the shops that understands the charm of the brand most deeply. Tatsuya Nakamura, the Creative Director, who not only curates classic selections but also directs special order models each season, shares his personal encounters with Lacoste and its appeal as a product.

Text by KASE Tomoshige (OPENERS)Interview photographs by OZAKI MakotoStill photographs by LACOSTE

My First Lacoste Was from BEAMS

—First, could you tell us about your personal connection with Lacoste?

When I was in high school—I was a high school student in a rural part of Niigata (laughs), and at that time, only the Japanese licensed version of Lacoste was available. I knew about the existence of "French-made Lacoste" from reading various magazines, but it wasn't sold in Niigata.

—When did you first encounter "French-made Lacoste"?

When I went to Tokyo for university, I finally encountered French-made Lacoste at shops like BEAMS and SHIPS. I think it cost around 9800 yen back then. Well, for a student, a 9800 yen polo shirt is expensive (laughs). But it felt like, "This is the real thing." It had a sense of being the "ultimate classic" of polo shirts. Then, clutching my money, I believe it was at BEAMS, I got a white French Lacoste.

—You made your first purchase at BEAMS, and now you're here talking about Lacoste... it's an episode that makes one feel a curious connection.

After that, I lost count of how many I bought... I bought a navy one, then other colors. White ones tend to yellow, so I bought about three of the same one.

—Around what time was this?

It was in the mid-1980s. At the time, Lacoste seemed to be perceived as an American casual brand, but I wore it with a "French Ivy" sensibility. "French Ivy," as the name suggests, was a style that took American Ivy League style and gave it a softer, French twist. So, in that sense, being French-made, it was the perfect item.—In that sense too, being French-made, it was the perfect item.

Tatsuya Nakamura, Creative Director at BEAMS

Nakamura's personal "L1212," purchased about 25 years ago

—How did you wear it?

Back then, I always paired it with denim. Around the time I was a university student, French-made denim started appearing. It was the era when brands like Lee were emerging... Lee was also expensive back then. I managed to buy one pair. And I wore them with sneakers like Adidas Stan Smiths or Country. The sneakers were also French-made. At school, there were students dressed similarly, but I thought, "I'm a bit different from you guys" (laughs). It was a good era.

A Tasteful Patina, Not Shabby Fading

—Could we see your personal "L1212"? The color has indeed faded...

It's inevitable that it fades with washing and ages, but it develops a tasteful patina rather than looking shabby. It's similar to how indigo in denim doesn't look shabby even when it fades. I think it's due to the quality of the material. The collar also gets a nice, relaxed drape.

—About how long ago did you purchase this?

I bought it when I was 22 or 23, so about 25 years ago. I still have about 10 items from that period. I even have an unopened white "L1212." I'm not really a collector, so I didn't have the intention of keeping them (laughs). The ones I bought in bulk because "they might yellow" turned up from the bottom of my storage cases.

The light blue is an "L1212," the navy is a slim-fit "Grey Crocodile."

—That's an amazing story... Is this one (the stretch type) black?

This is navy. It's one of the recent "Grey Crocodile" models. Previously, with the "L1212," there was a sense of washing it to achieve a certain fit, but as I was looking for something that fit even better, I came across this "Grey Crocodile."

—Has the "L1212" changed much from the past to now?

The silhouette hasn't changed much at all. I did a comparison: if you compare an old "L1212" with a current "L1212," both unwashed, the specifications are almost identical.

—After all, they're still in your storage case (laughs)!

Episode 4 I love Lacoste

Why It Continues to Be Loved by Professionals – BEAMS Creative Director Tatsuya Nakamura

I Directly Expressed My Desire to Produce a Japanese-Made Version

—Next, I'd like to ask about Lacoste as a "product" handled by BEAMS.LACOSTECould you tell us about it?

Regarding Lacoste, even after it stopped being made in France, there was a perception that "things coming from France were the real deal." However, when comparing parallel imports with Japanese-made products, there wasn't a significant difference. For that reason, I directly approached Fabrica and said, "I want to produce a Japanese-made version," and we resumed handling it (at BEAMS). So, there was a period when we didn't carry Lacoste.

—I see.

At that time, I raised various questions I had. I asked things like, "The old ones were slimmer, why are the current products wider?" They explained each of my questions.

—Were there any internal opinions when you decided to resume handling the brand?

There was certainly a sentiment among our customers and staff at the time that it had to be "French-made." But I felt that way of thinking was outdated. Judging a company's products, which are now produced with globally standardized specifications, based on their country of origin seemed nonsensical. From there, we resumed handling the "L1212," introduced the "Grey Crocodile," and started doing special orders. The image at the top of the blog post is a BEAMS special order from that era. Since then, we've been working on various special orders every season.

—How has the reaction been since resuming?

It's one of the ultimate classics in today's market. Customers do purchase it. Lacoste can be worn in a casual style, or under a jacket.

—It always feels a bit elegant, doesn't it?

It has a French esprit... Incidentally, Italians also love Lacoste polo shirts. They have Lacoste shops in resort areas there, too. Italians love classic items, don't they? In Italy, Lacoste is also treated as a classic item.

Nowadays, Many Customers Want to Stand Their Collars Up

—Could you tell us about the Lacoste items BEAMS is offering this season?

This one (PH039P) has a slightly smaller collar, designed for those who like to wear their collars up. We've balanced it so it sits well when stood up.

—Indeed, the collar is small and firm.

In the old days at BEAMS, if you wore your collar up, you'd probably get told off by a senior (laughs), but times have changed. Many customers want to stand their collars up, and we don't deny that. Some people like to stand the collar up when wearing it under a jacket. This product is for those who want to stand their collar up. Of course, even if you don't stand it up, it's compact and looks neat.

—And what about this one (PH414E)?

This is a garment-dyed type, with a vintage feel. That's why the crocodile logo is dyed the same color as the body. We wanted to create a slim-fit polo using garment dyeing, which is also a trend. You might not recognize it as Lacoste unless you look closely at the chest logo (laughs).

—That's great. It's a "why didn't I think of that" kind of item.

The fabric also feels substantial, doesn't it? The body is made with shrinkage rates calculated in. The fabric shrinks and becomes dense, and as you wash it, the color fades, giving it a nice character.

—As a select shop, is the Lacoste polo shirt an indispensable item?

Like Levi's 501 or Converse All-Stars, it's something essential, isn't it? It's the ultimate classic. There aren't many items that have remained popular for so long without becoming dated.

—It's a classic that has survived. I hope younger people will wear polo shirts more often.

They have a T-shirt culture... In my generation's view, T-shirts weren't something you wore out on the town, but rather at home or on days off. So, as the most casual item for going out, we had the polo shirt.—In other words, it has to have a collar (laughs).

—Indeed, I haven't seen you wear anything without a collar very often (laughs).

Only when I'm at home, or going to a very nearby shop (laughs).

—I see. Thank you very much for sharing all these interesting insights.

Tatsuya NAKAMURA
Born in Niigata City in 1963. Creative Director overseeing all of BEAMS's clothing. He commands deep trust from various quarters due to his aesthetic sense and clear trend analysis skills. His activities are diverse, including overseeing fashion mooks. His blog "ELEMENTS of STYLE" (http://ameblo.jp/beams-class/), which details the latest trends in men's clothing, is always a topic of conversation among fashion industry insiders.

Creative Director Felipe Oliveira Baptista Discusses the Future of Lacoste

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

On May 29th (Tuesday), an opening reception was held at the Lacoste Shibuya store, Japan's first flagship shop. Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who was appointed Creative Director last year, also visited Japan and granted us a mini-interview.

Baptista, originally from Portugal, studied fashion at Kingston University in London. After graduating, he worked for Max Mara and Christophe Lemaire before launching his own brand in 2005. How does Baptista, who operates at the forefront of fashion, perceive the Lacoste brand? "I believe Lacoste's fundamental style is timeless. That is to say, it's suitable for casual wear, but also for dressing up. You can pair it with a jacket, or with denim."

How does he plan to add new flavors to such a "great classic" like Lacoste? "It's a brand loved by my father and grandfather's generation for a long time, but it's also important to create clothes that appeal to younger people. I believe it's necessary to expand the range of items beyond polo shirts to include hoodies, jackets, knits, and jerseys. However, the origin of Lacoste is, after all, the polo shirt. Without honoring this identity, we cannot create good products. My favorite clothes are simple and functional. The Lacoste polo shirt is the same. We release models with subtly adjusted fits to match the times, but the basics remain the same. Keeping that in mind, I want to express my creativity."