FASHION /
FEATURES
February 26, 2015
Feature | Latest Looks from Japanese Designers: Avant-Garde Meets Maturity, SS 2012
Feature: Latest Looks from Japanese Designers—Avant-garde and Mature
Introducing the Must-See Men's Collections for Spring/Summer 2012
Paris, Milan, New York... While the latest collections from the world's esteemed fashion houses are certainly captivating, our attention is now drawn to the creations of Japanese designers. Brands like Mihara Yasuhiro and John Lawrence Sullivan are active on the Paris runway, and their work is highly regarded.
Their approach to garment-making, which balances real-world wearability with a sophisticated, avant-garde essence, is now recognized as world-class. Especially when one encounters their clothing in person, in stores, there's a resonance that only fellow Japanese can truly appreciate – in the sizing, the contemporary relevance, the intricate details, the masterful craftsmanship, and the rich sensibility. Let us now introduce the Spring/Summer 2012 looks from these Japanese designers, one by one.
Text by MATSUDA Natsuki
FACTOTUM
The brand concept is a deep commitment to denim, fused with a blend of mode and real clothes. The wardrobe is developed based on tailored, work, and military styles. Each season, the designer personally visits a country and draws inspiration for the clothing from the people, landscapes, and atmosphere encountered there. The theme for Spring/Summer 2012 is "Sunday at the park," inspired by American hippie culture of the 1970s. This marks the first time FACTOTUM has presented men's and women's lines simultaneously, resulting in a collection with a unisex feel, imbued with the bright, free spirit of a community gathering in a park on a Sunday.
UDO Koji
Born in 1971. After graduating from Tokyo Mode Gakuen, he joined Beams. He then studied abroad in London before returning to Japan and participating in the launch of a domestic brand. Subsequently, he went independent and launched FACTOTUM in 2004. He opened a directly managed store in 2006 and debuted at Tokyo Collection the same year. In 2010, he launched the women's line, FACTOTUM FEMME.
FACTOTUM Press Room
Tel. 03-6698-8963
http://www.factotum.jp
Twitter | http://twitter.com/FACTOTUM_PRESS
FaceBook | http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001110555655
N.HOOLYWOOD
The opening sequence of a typical film, where staff and cast names appear as text along with music, is called the title back. Saul Bass, a pioneer of title design and a graphic designer, established a style that is now standard by creating numerous techniques through his unique literary and visual imagination. This season's collection draws inspiration from the solid style often seen in films from the 1960s, when Bass was active. It combines pop textiles and prints reminiscent of film scenes, incorporating the essence of his representative title back designs into the details.
OBANA Daisuke
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1974. After dropping out of vocational school in 1992, he worked as a buyer and shop manager at a vintage clothing store. In 1995, he was involved in the launch of the vintage clothing select shop "go-getter." In 2000, he established "N.HOOLYWOOD." In December of the same year, he opened "Mister hollywood" in Harajuku to fully develop original products. In 2002, he presented his first collection at a club. In June 2007, he presented "N.HOOLYWOOD COMPILE" for the first time at an exhibition in Paris. On November 1, 2008, the first N.HOOLYWOOD flagship store opened in Hong Kong.
Mister hollywood Tel. 03-6447-0977
MIHARAYASUHIRO
This MIHARAYASUHIRO collection is a silent voice from MIHARA, imbued with various messages. Casual jersey and cut-and-sew materials are transformed into classic tailored jackets, riding pants, and slacks, deviating from the concept of everyday wear and expressing MIHARA's signature ironic expression through material and form. Photo jacquards incorporate shadows within the fabric, reflecting perspectives from all angles. Knits blend various details, expressing different textiles through knitwear. The world is full of diverse values and expressions. People connect and express themselves. This world is a knit of all ideologies. The shoes are filled with ironic elements, featuring patchwork deck shoes, straight-tip shoes that appear cut off mid-stride, and origami-like sneakers and desert boots.
"In this world, there is no such thing as the everyday or the universal. And when something happens, time gradually erodes the memory of it. To ensure we don't forget what was there, we must constantly create with meaning. That is this collection," says Yasuhiro Mihara.
MIHARA Yasuhiro
Born in Fukuoka Prefecture in 1972. He entered Tama Art University's Textile Department in 1993 and began making shoes on his own the following year. In 1998, he opened his first directly managed store, "SOSU MIHARAYASUHIRO," in Aoyama, Tokyo. In 1999, he established "SOSU." In the same year, he presented his apparel line at Tokyo Collection, generating significant buzz. In 2000, he launched "PUMA by MIHARA YASUHIRO" in Japan. In 2004, he made his international debut with the original brand "MIHARA YASUHIRO," participating in Milan Collection. In 2007, he presented his work at Paris Collection. In 2010, he relocated and reopened the Omotesando flagship store "SOSU MIHARAYASUHIRO" as "MIHARAYASUHIRO TOKYO."
MIHARAYASUHIRO TOKYO
Tel. 03-5778-0675
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN
This season, the collection incorporates contrasts in materials, patterns, and color blocking, adding spice to authentic tailored styles through the combination of various elements. Linen jackets with leather epaulets convey strength within lightness, while camouflage prints are layered over silk organza, creating new expressions through the interplay of patterns and materials. The color palette, based on Bordeaux, green, mustard, and navy, provides impact, projecting a modern yet elegant and strong masculine image. The collection was presented in a venue along the Seine River in Paris, chosen for its ability to highlight the textures and colors, where natural light streamed in and a pleasant breeze flowed.
ARASHI Yanagawa
Born in Hiroshima Prefecture. He spent four years as a professional boxer before becoming a designer. In 2003, he launched "JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN." In 2008, he opened a flagship store in Nakameguro, Tokyo. After participating in Tokyo Collection, he debuted at Paris Collection from the Autumn/Winter 2011 season.
JOHNLAWRENCESULLIVAN
Tel. 03-5428-0068
www.john-lawrence-sullivan.com