Scottish Mode for Men | Discover the Essence of Scottish Fashion Through Four Keywords
FASHION / FEATURES
March 6, 2015

Scottish Mode for Men | Discover the Essence of Scottish Fashion Through Four Keywords


Chapter 03|Scottish mode for men


The Essence of Scottish Fashion: Understanding Through Four Keywords


Cashmere, Harris Tweed, Tartan Check, Mackintosh—Scotland produces many long-selling items brimming with the charm of craftsmanship. We introduce popular items along with their appeal as described by buyers and press from major select shops!


Direction & Text by ODE TsuyoshiPhoto by JAMANDFIX (Steel)Photo by KIMURA Katsuhiko (Model)Styling by YOSHIDA yohei (JUICE)Make by WASHIZU Yuka (SIGNO)Hair by HIRANO HikaruSpecial thanks CONRAD TOKYO




Cashmere
The Jewel of Fibers: Scottish Cashmere Beloved by Global Fashion Houses



Cashmere is known for its excellent warmth, softness, lightness, elegant luster, and unique silky feel. Its raw material is the fine downy hair of the cashmere goat, which grows to protect itself from harsh cold. It takes the wool of four goats to create just one knit piece.

This is why it's called the "jewel of fibers" or the "queen of fibers," and is considered one of the most precious and superior materials in the world. Its name originates from the old name for the Kashmir region, a mountainous area near the borders of India, Pakistan, and China. Scottish cashmere's distinctive texture is achieved through careful washing in the soft, clear water flowing from the Scottish mountains. Furthermore, the finishing process uses the natural fruit of the thistle to gently brush the fabric's surface, raising the fibers to create cashmere's characteristic flowing nap and a more supple feel.


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These characteristics, distinctly different from cashmere produced in other regions or countries, might be precisely why it is loved worldwide. It's also a little-known fact that the cashmere collections of top global brands like "Chanel," "Louis Vuitton," and "Hermès" are manufactured in Scottish factories. This fact further attests to the high quality of Scottish cashmere, wouldn't you agree?

What is the Appeal of Scottish Cashmere, According to Barneys New York?



Yosuke Nagira, Men's MD at Barneys New York, which handles Scottish cashmere products, shares its appeal: "I've been sourcing scarves from BEGG & CO Scotland for about five years. I personally own several, and they truly possess a unique charm, with their exquisite material feel and beautiful, distinctive colors, trusted by renowned fashion houses as a factory. I believe this is possible only because of the quality of the water and the land in Scotland. Moreover, the craftsmanship, rooted in tradition and history, is irresistible."


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BEGG & CO Scotland
http://www.beggscotland.com/



Yosuke NAGIRA



Yosuke NAGIRA
Men's MD at Barneys New York. After working as an assistant buyer for men's furnishings, he became the buyer for men's furnishings in 2010. In addition to his extensive buying of domestic and international items, including bags, small leather goods, and accessories, he is also involved in the development of original products. He also has an active side, enjoying surfing and golf.







Chapter 03|Scottish mode for men


The Essence of Scottish Fashion: Understanding Through Four Keywords (2)




Harris Tweed
The Pinnacle of Tweed, Infused with the Spirit of Handmade Craftsmanship



There are many types of tweed. Among them, Harris Tweed is known as the "King of Tweeds" for its supreme quality and luxury. It is still meticulously handwoven, one piece at a time, by the islanders of the Outer Hebrides in northwestern Scotland using old-fashioned looms in their homes. It is astonishing that there are currently about 120 handweavers, and the management is so thorough that you can identify the weaver by checking the serial number on the tag.


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Its characteristic warm colors come from threads blended with various hues, and the fabric patterns are inspired by the local landscape. While steadfastly adhering to these traditional methods, new Harris Tweed fabrics have also been developed with half the weight and softness of the traditional ones to meet contemporary needs, so they are definitely worth paying attention to. Furthermore, only fabrics that pass rigorous inspection are granted the "Orb Mark," the registered trademark tag of the Harris Tweed Authority in the UK. And this year, 2010, marks the 100th anniversary of the "Orb Mark"!




For those who have never tried it before, why not get a piece this year, reflect on its craftsmanship, and celebrate this milestone together?

What is the Appeal of Harris Tweed, According to Tomorrowland?



Tomorrowland, which uses Harris Tweed for many of its original shop items this season, has Kohei Sugiyama, a press representative from the Sales Promotion Department, captivated by its charm.

"I've been using it for our original wear for about 10 years because of its rich colors, handmade texture, and the warmth it brings to contemporary styles. It becomes a part of the wearer as it's used, making it a truly unique item, which is irresistible. Recently, it has been evolving, with lighter weights and a wider variety of colors and patterns becoming available. As more Harris Tweed items can be worn with a modern sensibility, I'd love to eventually commission a custom fabric order myself."









Kohei SUGIYAMA



Kohei SUGIYAMA
As press for the Sales Promotion Department at Tomorrowland, a select shop offering sophisticated and elegant casual styles for both men and women, he is primarily responsible for men's fashion.







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The Essence of Scottish Fashion: Understanding Through Four Keywords (3)




Tartan Check
From Scottish Family Crests to Today's Ubiquitous Tartan Check



What comes to mind when you hear "tartan check"? The pattern on a scarf? Your school uniform from your student days? Or perhaps department store gift bags? In fact, its origins lie in the plaid patterns created in the Scottish Highlands, where each clan designated its own unique tartan pattern, serving as a symbol of tribe or class, much like a coat of arms or family crest. These were then tailored into kilts, mantles, and shoulder wraps, the traditional Scottish attire.


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It is said that there are hundreds of types of these checks. They are now widely loved as a standard pattern in the fashion world. Surprisingly, it's not widely known that individuals can register their own original tartan. The "Princess of Wales Tartan," named after the late Princess Diana, is particularly famous. Wouldn't it be wonderful to one day experience a journey to create your own original tartan in Scotland?




What is the Appeal of Tartan Check, According to The VULCANIZE London?



At "The VULCANIZE London" in Omotesando, Tokyo, a popular arcade shop for brands like Globe-Trotter suitcases, MD Takashi Yamamoto recommends tartan scarves originating from Scotland.


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"I personally like tartan checks and this season we are handling two brands: Johnstons and BEGG & CO Scotland. Johnstons has a deep connection with Globe-Trotter, having previously commissioned custom scarves, so many of our staff are fans. BEGG & CO Scotland offers not only scarves but also linings for Grenfell coats; in addition to their excellent quality, their tartans boast superb color development and diversity through subtle color combinations. Manufacturers with exceptional skills utilize the bounty of Scotland's rich nature to create high-quality products, making Scottish goods an attractive addition to the wardrobe of men who value longevity and authenticity."

Johnstons
http://johnstons.jp/


The VULCANIZE London



Takashi YAMAMOTO
MD at "The VULCANIZE London," an arcade shop for British brands. After gaining experience at a department store, he joined BLBG Co., Ltd. in 2008. Upon the opening of The VULCANIZE London in 2009, he took on the role of MD.







Chapter 03|Scottish mode for men


The Essence of Scottish Fashion: Understanding Through Four Keywords (4)




Mackintosh Cloth & Heavy Outerwear
The Evolving Winter Staple: Mackintosh Outerwear



Mackintosh Cloth was born in 1823 from Charles Macintosh, a native of Scotland. Its origin lies in his invention of a new textile material during his multifaceted career as an architect, designer, and painter. This was the rubberized waterproof fabric known as "Mackintosh Cloth"—it quickly gained renown in Britain, and Charles began to put it to practical use in clothing. Initially, it started as riding coats that kept the wearer's clothes dry even in torrential rain, and its practicality led to its adoption for the uniforms of the British Army and police.

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While conventional raincoats primarily use fabrics coated with rubber or wax, "Mackintosh Cloth" involves sandwiching natural rubber between two layers of fabric using a special technique. This fabric, with natural rubber sandwiched between two cotton layers, created a material with a unique crispness, ease of movement, and appealing appearance. Furthermore, it achieves complete waterproof functionality as a raincoat, with waterproof tape applied to the seams and special adhesives used for pockets and details. It is astonishing that, even today, each piece is still handmade by artisans, including these meticulous steps. All Mackintosh coats have names, and their designs are all simple, making them versatile enough to suit both suits and casual wear. Their styles are also constantly evolving, with numerous models available today, including Japan-exclusive models, shop-specific collaborations, and fabric models created in collaboration with fashion brands. It's worth visiting many shops to find your favorite piece.




What is the Appeal of Mackintosh Outerwear, According to ESTNATION?



Yuichiro Hara, buyer in the Product Department, recommends three models from Mackintosh this season.

"I particularly recommend the Keen model, a sophisticated pea coat that can be worn like a jacket. The material is a single-layer bonded wool, which perfectly matches the current demand for lightness and a relaxed feel. Mackintosh, founded in 1823, has a rich history and is one of the few truly timeless brands that has skillfully modernized itself with the times. There are few brands like it, wouldn't you agree? The rubberized coats are still produced in Scotland using traditional methods, which is also very appealing."


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Mackintosh
http://www.mackintosh-uk.com/



Yuichiro HARA

©YOSHIZAWA Kenta






Yuichiro HARA
Buyer in the Product Department at ESTNATION. He became a buyer at ESTNATION in 2003. Within the specialty store that blends both modern and classic styles, he is solely responsible for buying in the classic department.