Fashion
March 9, 2015
Yasuhiro Mihara's Japanese Craftsmanship: "Visiting Tomoi" (Part 2)
MIHARAYASUHIRO x TOMOI
Part 2: Visiting TOMOI (2)
Fashion designer Yasuhiro Mihara embarks on a groundbreaking series, "MEANING MADE IN JAPAN MIHARAYASUHIRO (MMM)," visiting Japan's proud factories and artisans to create new products that can only be made in Japan.
Mihara visited TOMOI, a button factory in Nara Prefecture, seeking new inspiration from their techniques.
Photos by Kaoru Mizobe (Hawk Eye Visual Works)Photos by Kaoru Mizobe (Hawk Eye Visual Works)With thanks to Hiroshi Hagino
Advanced technical expertise backed by tradition and innovation
The manufacturing of shell buttons involves about 10 processes, including "nuki" to cut the base material from the shell, "kezu-ri" to shape the button, "ana-ake" (drilling holes), and "migaki" (polishing). In the past, when manufacturing was booming, each of these processes was handled by separate factories in a division of labor, but this industrial structure no longer exists.
TOMOI has long been equipped with facilities to handle almost all of these processes in-house, from start to finish. Their setup ranges from vintage machinery used since the company's founding to state-of-the-art CAD and Italian laser engraving machines. Notably, they possess the equipment to create the metal molds for the cutting tools used to shape the buttons, allowing for a high degree of design freedom and the ability to reproduce identical buttons for repeat orders. Few factories in Japan possess such comprehensive facilities. This advanced technical expertise, underpinned by both tradition and innovation, is arguably the company's greatest strength.
MiharaThe inspection is done one by one, by eye, isn't it?
TomoiThat's right. Since they are natural materials, there are inevitably variations in color. These processes are also what make it difficult to pursue uniformity, as we discussed earlier.
While the manufacturing process is automated to some extent, skilled human hands are indispensable, more so than I had imagined. Even with the latest laser engraving machines, current technology cannot distinguish the front and back of a button, so staff must set each one individually.
Furthermore, tasks like inspecting thousands of buttons and sorting them by subtle color differences must require considerable expertise. The meticulous craftsmanship and dedication poured into even the smallest button truly embody the essence of "Made in Japan." Witnessing TOMOI's manufacturing process firsthand seems to have sparked new ideas for buttons that can only be created here.
MiharaI've always wanted to create buttons with layered colors. For example, is it possible to bond white mother-of-pearl with black mother-of-pearl?
TomoiTechnically, that would be difficult. Precisely aligning and bonding two buttons perfectly would likely be impossible.
MiharaIn that case, how about a structure that allows two buttons to be attached together, even without bonding them?
TomoiIf we create interlocking convex and concave shapes, it might be structurally possible. That's an interesting idea.
The socks created by fashion designer Yasuhiro Mihara prioritize both functionality and natural materials. To achieve both moisture-wicking and quick-drying properties, a blend of cotton and hemp was chosen. Using a杢 (mōke) yarn, where various colored threads and neps are unevenly mixed, unique color adjustments and an embroidered brand logo on the heel were applied to create an accent for any style. Knitted on a 60-gauge knitting machine, these socks offer a relaxed, comfortable fit.
These socks, sold exclusively through the web shopping site "rumors," will have a portion of their proceeds donated to welfare facilities in Tokyo via the Tokyo Goodwill Bank, operated by the Tokyo Council of Social Welfare, as per the intentions of Mihara and OPENERS.
