Yasuhiro Mihara's Japanese Monozukuri: "Tailor & Cutter" (3)

MIHARAYASUHIRO × Tailor & Cutter
Vol. 1: Tailor & Cutter (3)

A special conversation between Yasuhiro Mihara, designer of the fashion brand "Sosuu," and Kazunari Arita, tailor at the bespoke tailor shop "Tailor & Cutter" in Aoyama. What was Mr. Arita's final call?

Text by Yasuhiro Takeishi (City Lights)Photo by Jamandfix

I want to be evaluated in Europe someday

Yasuhiro MiharaSpeaking of which, are you currently accepting full bespoke and made-to-measure orders?

Kazunari AritaYes, that's right. For full bespoke, we do the sewing in-house, so it takes a little time. We expect it to be ready around the next season.
Some clients want timely, trendy items, but I propose styling that can be worn for a long time, so I don't think it's a problem if it transcends seasons. I don't really make what the customer wants (laughs).

MiharaWhat's the difference with made-to-measure orders?

AritaMade-to-measure is sewn at a factory, but the system allows for a wide variety of details to be ordered. So, some shops call the same system full bespoke. However, there are no fittings. Also, I draw the patterns, but there are still differences in the finer details. However, it's by no means a bad product, so I think starting with made-to-measure is a good approach.

MiharaSo the factory is one you've vetted, Mr. Arita?

MIHARAYASUHIRO × Tailor & Cutter<br><br>Vol. 1: Tailor & Cutter (2)

AritaYes. I looked at various places before deciding, and the factory we're currently working with excels at the British style.

MiharaThat's the factory that made my wedding suit, isn't it? I thought they were quite skilled. They matched quite difficult materials beautifully.
Actually, I'm thinking of ordering a jacket from you today. Last time it was a tuxedo, but this time I'd like something a bit more relaxed. This is actually the main topic for today (laughs).

AritaOh, really? (laughs)

MiharaThat was a joke, but in this series, I want to delve into "Made in Japan," so I'd like to ask you about that, Mr. Arita. What do you feel is the biggest difference between British and Japanese suits?

AritaI think it's the balance. The tailoring itself isn't as different as people say. But balance is all about sensibility. For example, making the jacket length longer, or raising the gorge line – that's what I consider originality.
Although I studied in England, I myself am Made in Japan. Because I know the authentic style firsthand, I want to be evaluated in Europe someday with my own originality that is possible precisely because of that knowledge.

Suits that express individuality for each person

MiharaI see. People who have gained experience overseas often try to push only that experience when they return home, but I strongly resonate with your approach, Mr. Arita, of expressing originality as "Made in Japan" based on that experience.

By the way, there are many jobs one can do for a lifetime, but is tailoring such a job for you?

AritaYes. I believe this is a time for doing what needs to be done and taking things step by step. Also, the reason I am a tailor now is because I want to enhance the elegance and presence of my clients, and grow alongside them. It just so happens that it's through suits. I believe this is a period where we communicate with clients through suits and grow together.

MiharaSo, you're still in a phase where the final goal isn't clear?

AritaNo, ultimately, I think it would be interesting and wonderful to be able to design clothes for each individual client, not just suits, like an haute couture designer. Suits are like a major accessory; they can enhance certain aspects of a client's persona, but they aren't everything. That's why, more than the suit itself, I focus on the sensibility of the client that can be expressed through the suit.

MiharaI look forward to seeing the results. Thank you for your time today.