MARGARET HOWELL | Toru Ukon of 'HUGE' Magazine on New Trends in Men's Fashion and Margaret Howell
Fashion
February 16, 2015

MARGARET HOWELL | Toru Ukon of 'HUGE' Magazine on New Trends in Men's Fashion and Margaret Howell


Why Does HUGE Magazine Champion Margaret Howell?


Toru Ukon on the New Trends in Men's Fashion



Kodansha's magazine HUGE celebrated its ninth anniversary with the October issue, released on August 24th. The sensational renewal of the magazine's February issue is still fresh in our minds. We spoke with Toru Ukon, the director of this popular fashion magazine, about the current trends in men's fashion.



Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by JAMANDFIX




Fashion is Always Counter-Culture



This season's major topics include Jil Sander welcoming its founding designer, Jil Sander, as Raf Simons' successor, and Hedi Slimane returning as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent to oversee all lines. HUGE perceives these as significant shifts in men's fashion.

The "00s" were heavily influenced by Hedi Slimane's rock-inspired, slim & compact style. The "10s" saw a reaction against this, with a trend towards larger silhouettes, leading to the popularity of styles like drop-crotch pants and two-pleat trousers. However, we and buyers haven't yet identified a definitive style for the "10s." It remains unclear whether the oversized silhouette trend will accelerate or if we'll see a move towards minimalism, similar to the late 90s. Both possibilities show early signs, but it's too soon to tell if either will become a major movement. What is certain, however, is that we are in a transitional period. With Hedi Slimane's new collection for Yves Saint Laurent due in 2014, we look forward to his proposals with anticipation.


Not Fashion-Conscious, But Loves Style



On the other hand,Margaret Howellbrands that, rather than being bound by the times, lean towards the traditional, are also gaining strength. This year, alongside major events like Queen Elizabeth's Diamond Jubilee and the London Olympics, traditional British heritage outerwear and knitwear brands have seen a resurgence. It's an era where tradition and craftsmanship are being updated and embraced. In terms of traditional style, British brands have been featured more than ever in recent years, and their fan base is likely growing. This is partly related to an increase in a more casual audience who "aren't fashion-conscious but love style."

I attend every Margaret Howell exhibition. Even with something as simple as the collar shape of a shirt, they approach it from a perspective of "this is good as it is," and select materials and colors accordingly, demonstrating a confidence in their craftsmanship. This confidence is clearly conveyed to the customer, providing a sense of reassurance. They effectively meet the demand for high-quality items that are also in tune with the times.


An Instinct for "What's Good Now, What's Authentic"



With the renewal of HUGE this spring, we've been directly featuring creators and designers we find interesting, regardless of fashion or trends, from the editorial team's perspective. This approach seems to be resonating with readers, who are intrigued and buying the magazine to discover "Who is this?" Our feature on "Billy Childish" in issue 94, released in June, also received a positive response.

Margaret Howell also collaborates with creators from other fields for their series "MARGARET HOWELL PLUS", such as their collaboration with garden designer Dan Pearson, and with traditional brands likeConverse, Alden, and Barbour. These collaborations, driven by a unique stance of "we want to create this with this kind of person," share a spiritual connection with HUGE.

We feel a kinship in their respect for brands and their instinct for "what's good now, what's authentic," so we intend to continue featuring and introducing them enthusiastically.


MARGARET HOWELL|HUGE 02



Toru Ukon
Born in Hokkaido in 1958. After working as an editor, writer, and broadcast writer, he currently serves as director for both HUGE (Kodansha) and Monthly Exile (LDH Magazine).

HUGE
http://www.hugemagazine.jp/




Anglobal
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp