BEAUTY /
THE EXPERTS
March 19, 2019
Series: Michiko Fujiwara, November 2018 | The Evolution of Powder Foundation and a Shift in Mindset
Series: Michiko Fujiwara, November 2018 | The Evolution of Powder Foundation and a Shift in Mindset
The Evolution of Powder Foundation. But Is a Shift in Mindset Still Necessary?!
In my last piece, I wrote about nostalgic makeup techniques from when I started as a hair and makeup artist in the 1980s.This time, I'll focus on cosmetics. The difference from that era is, of course, the evolution of cosmetics, but I think powder foundation shows this most clearly. After all, it was a brand-new makeup item back then.
Photographs & Text by FUJIWARA Michiko
Memories of Powder Foundation's Evolution
The powder foundations I remember weren't just for regular application; they were two-way types that could also be used as cake foundation by wetting the sponge. When used as cake foundation, they were characterized by their resistance to water and sweat, making them long-lasting.
At that time, the harmful effects of UV rays were not widely known, and it was fashionable to get a tan and have sun-kissed skin during the summer. So, I recall everyone eagerly using them, thinking, "I've been waiting for something like this!" I also happily used them, thinking, "Wow, they're easy to apply and look so natural." However, compared to today's products, they were likely quite matte and heavy.
Then, during the bubble economy from the mid-80s, matte-textured base makeup became popular, which likely made powder foundation even more commonplace. As beauty standards shifted towards naturalness around the year 2000, I recall powder foundations evolving to offer more translucency and moisturizing effects to match.
Each Makeup Item Has Its Own Role
Speaking of which, a change of topic, but each makeup item has its own role. For example, foundation is meant to enhance the skin's brightness, translucency, color, and texture. Concealers come in two types: one for covering areas you want to hide, and another for brightening areas like dark circles.
Furthermore, new items are born from the imagination of creators who think, "Wouldn't it be nice to have something like this?" and the desires of consumers. For instance, perhaps glosses were created from the idea of "Can we make a lipstick that adds more shine?"
However, when glosses became popular, lipsticks started leaning too much towards the texture of gloss, and for a time, I was indignant, thinking, "What's the point of it being a lipstick then?" The reverse was also true. But the advent of gloss greatly expanded the range of textures for lipstick, and later, liquid rouge types emerged, combining the best of both.
In this way, cosmetics have evolved and new items have been created through the efforts of cosmetic companies. Moreover, more and more cosmetics are emerging from the ever-increasing number of cosmetic brands each year. Consequently, consumers who use these products increasingly need the "power to choose."
Therefore, without a clear intention like "I want my skin to look like this," or specific desires such as "I want to cover this part in this way," it has become increasingly difficult to select "the one" from a vast array of cosmetics. And as if to solve this, cosmetic information sites and social media posts have emerged. Nowadays, not just magazines, but also information from these online sources has become a crucial key in making choices.
What Users Need to Change in Their Mindset
Cosmetics have evolved, and the world has become more convenient, but I still feel there are things that consumers need to change in their mindset.
When I give lectures, I sometimes receive questions like, "Are there any makeup methods that can make me look incredibly beautiful easily and quickly?" However, it's as clear as day that "easy and quick" and "incredibly beautiful" are not equal. Easy and quick methods will achieve a certain level of beauty.
But no matter how much cosmetics evolve, achieving maximum beauty through makeup requires effort (although the ease of use and finished look are vastly superior to older products).
So, when I receive such questions, I respond, "That's like chasing a mirage. Instead of pursuing that, practicing makeup and becoming proficient will more reliably lead to easier and quicker beauty, and also save time."
Cosmetic companies have likely strived to fulfill these "mirage-like desires" of consumers, which is why cosmetics have evolved. Nevertheless, I believe it's necessary for users to understand the functions and limitations of each item. For example, wanting to perfectly cover dark spots with foundation is like chasing a mirage. If there were a foundation that could do that, it would likely make your entire face look heavily made up. To achieve perfect coverage, you need a concealer specifically for coverage.
Now, considering these points, what is the value of powder foundation? I believe it lies in its ability to create a base makeup easily without dirtying your hands. It's also a convenient item for touch-ups during the day. And if you have no skin troubles, you can complete your base makeup with just this one product. In short, I believe its primary benefit is achieving "good enough" beauty with ease.
However, if you have desires like "I want to fix this area and that area," you won't fulfill those desires unless you use the appropriate items. Therefore, getting indignant about "This powder foundation doesn't cover my spots!" is nonsensical. Even if it provides some coverage, achieving perfection is not the role of powder foundation. Knowing this will reduce confusion when choosing products and, conversely, allow you to use them correctly, don't you think?
What Do You Expect from Powder Foundation?
I myself use powder foundation for touch-ups, or when I want to quickly finish my makeup on a day off. I also use it to set concealer after covering spots. What I expect from powder foundation is moderate coverage, translucency, a feeling of moisture, and a soft-focus finish.
In other words, for me, "good enough" means achieving the best overall balance. And that is what makes a powder foundation excellent and easy for me to use.
What are your criteria?
I feel that powder foundation is currently undergoing significant evolution. Perhaps I even sense it might transform into a different form in the future. Regardless, I believe that no matter how excellent an item is created, it remains essential to grasp "What is it that I truly want?" After all, it is human consciousness and hands that perform makeup. Even if something like a personal makeup robot were to be invented...!

(From left)
COSME DECORTE The Powder Foundation
Offers translucency and a light, silky, airy feel. As time passes, it blends with sebum to create a moderate sheen, giving the impression that your bare skin has become beautiful.
ESTĒE LAUDER Double Wear Moisture Stay-in-Place Powder Makeup N
Its supple application that adheres to the skin and its finish are exceptional! It retains moisture while absorbing excess oil, keeping your beautiful skin as if freshly applied. Creates a feminine impression.
ALBION Sweet Myrrh Chiffon
Creates a light, fluffy, soft-focus complexion. The complex of collagen and hyaluronic acid also keeps skin moisturized, which is a nice bonus. Gives a soft, gentle feminine impression.