Series: Michiko Fujiwara, October 2018 | Achieve a Smaller Face with Natural Dimension!

A Nostalgic Technique for a Naturally Smaller Face with Today's Products

Among the products released this autumn, I discovered a nostalgic item! It's not the product itself that's nostalgic, but rather the technique for using it. The item in question is GIVENCHY Le Soin Noir, No. 2 (right in the photo). When I first entered the hair and makeup industry (decades ago!), contouring to create a sculpted face was a standard part of the makeup process. And back then, I often used shades like No. 2 (Radiant Gold), a bronze color.

Photographs & Text by Michiko Fujiwara

The Right Color and Texture for Contouring

By the way, Radiant Drop comes in two shades: No. 1 Radiant Pink and No. 2 Radiant Gold, both released as liquid highlighters. They are characterized by their dewy, radiant finish. You can mix them with foundation for an all-over glow, or apply them over foundation to highlight specific areas. Personally, I've found a favorite way to use them: No. 2 Radiant Gold as a contour shade, and No. 1 Radiant Pink as a highlighter.

No. 2 is a bronze with a slight reddish undertone, which is perfect for contouring Japanese skin tones. Many products marketed as contour shades are either too dark or too black, making the skin look muddy, or too light to have any contouring effect, so finding the right shade can be surprisingly difficult. Beyond color, the pearl finish and texture are also crucial. It's important to have a subtle pearl finish and a translucent quality. Otherwise, the result can look like you're overtly announcing, "I'm contouring here!" But with the color, pearl finish, and translucency of No. 2, you can achieve a natural-looking contour.

Reflecting on it, the contour shades of the past did have a color similar to this GIVENCHY product, but I recall they lacked the pearl finish and translucency. So, even though it was "nostalgic," the result must have been unnatural compared to today's standards. Thinking back to those times, I'm truly struck by how much cosmetics have evolved.

Where and How to Apply Contour

Now, even with contouring, applying it in the wrong places can halve its effectiveness. The areas to contour are the outer parts of the face, such as the cheekbones, jawline, outer edges of the eyebrows, and hairline. Broadly speaking, it's the outer part of the forehead from the brow arch to the hairline. Between the outer edges of the eyebrows and temples, and the outer line of the jaw from the outer eyebrow to the jawline. Underneath the cheekbones, extend slightly inward. Contouring these areas enhances the natural shadows that follow the contours of your face. This creates a subtly sculpted impression and a naturally smaller-looking face.

This product has a brush tip on the dropper. Instead of applying it directly, I first place a small amount on the back of my hand. Then, I lightly pick up the product with the second knuckle of my middle finger. Holding my finger vertically, I blend from the outside inward, or horizontally, moving my finger in large strokes from top to bottom. This allows for even, natural application and quick blending.

Highlight Placement, Effect, and Application

Now, for the other shade, No. 1 Radiant Pink, a highlighter with a subtle pink pearl tone. Applying this to the high points of the cheekbones around the outer corners of the eyes (the C-zone), the area between the eyebrows, the tip of the nose, and the chin creates a radiant glow, making the skin and the entire face look more vibrant. It also emphasizes the protruding parts of the face, adding a bright, dimensional quality.

For application, just like with contouring, I start by placing a small amount on the back of my hand. However, since the area for highlighter is smaller than for contouring, I use about the first knuckle of my middle finger. I then gently tap the product onto the areas mentioned above.

Both products set onto the skin shortly after application, so there's no need to worry about creasing or smudging.

While contouring or highlighting alone can be effective, using both enhances facial dimension and the effect of a smaller face, while also adding a touch of glamour and a nuanced depth to your features. These qualities are perfect for autumn and winter wardrobes, so be sure to incorporate them into your makeup routine this season!