Tacit, a subtly diffused fragrance, is born | Aesop

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An Interview with the Perfumer and Development Manager

Aesop's Second Fragrance

Tacit, a Subtly Diffused Fragrance, is Born

Aesop is releasing its second fragrance, ‘Tacit’. How did this scent, centered around yuzu and basil, come to be? We spoke with Kate Forbes, Aesop's Research & Development Manager, and perfumer Céline Barrel, who have been involved in Aesop's development.

Text by Hiroko Ikegami (OPENERS)

Following the previous Marrakech Intense, Aesop's second fragrance has been born. We interviewed perfumer Céline Barrel and Kate Forbes, who has been involved in the development of over 80% of Aesop's products, about this new fragrance featuring key notes of vetiver heart, basil oil, and yuzu.

—You're releasing your second fragrance not long after the previous Marrakech Intense.

Kate Forbes, Research & Development Manager

Kate ForbesCreating fragrances is challenging for us, and it was a wonderful collaboration. We really wanted to create this stimulating chemistry, so we decided to start working on a second fragrance. Céline and I have known each other for over nine years, and I reached out to her for our next collaboration. Marrakech Intense has a very unique scent with floral top notes and spicy middle notes, so this time, I wanted something green and fresh.

—Is developing fragrances different from developing skincare and body care items?

Kate ForbesYes, it's completely different. As a scientist, I find it easier to create skincare and body care items. I can repeatedly experiment by combining ingredients to achieve desired effects, and even if I fail, I can derive the answer from the chemical formulas.
Fragrances, on the other hand, are more emotional. That's why I needed Céline's expertise to give form to those feelings and sensibilities.

Pantone Color No. 363 as a Source of Inspiration

—What were the plans and concepts behind the actual creation of ‘Tacit’?

Céline BarrelAesop's team conveyed four concepts to me. The first was the color green, specifically Pantone Color No. 363 – a deep, energetic green. The second was the scent of Aesop's Reverence Hand Balm.

Then there was Chirico's painting: a cityscape with a desolate, exotic atmosphere, featuring a train in the distance.

The fourth was the film ‘In the Mood for Love’, set in 1960s Hong Kong, a movie themed around fleeting beauty, youth, and hidden relationships.

Céline Barrel, Perfumer

—Creating a fragrance based on such unique inspirations as color, painting, and film must have been very challenging.

Céline BarrelYes, it was challenging, but also exciting. Requests from major fragrance houses often align with current trends and are primarily based on commercial and marketing considerations. However, working with Aesop was more artistic, and I found it very enjoyable and rewarding.

—So you translated those images into a concrete scent.

Céline BarrelFirst, I decided to express the freshness of the green color with yuzu. Among citrus fruits, yuzu felt perfect, with its intellectual and modern feel. The edgy mood found in Chirico's paintings was captured with basil, specifically a rare Egyptian variety. While Vietnamese basil is commonly known, I wanted to use the spicier Egyptian basil. And the sensual aspect of ‘In the Mood for Love’ is expressed through a luxurious use of vetiver heart.

—What meaning is conveyed by the name ‘Tacit’?

Kate ForbesTacit is a word related to knowledge, meaning something understood implicitly, without being expressed in words.

—That explains the sense of intelligence it evokes.

Céline BarrelIt's my own speculation, but I imagine Aesop's users, both men and women, are people who exude intellectual intelligence. Sophisticated individuals with genuine refinement.

Kate ForbesWe don't segment our customers, so we don't have a specific image of who we want to use it, but we hope that Japanese people, who often have a strong appreciation for craftsmanship and authenticity, will resonate with Tacit.

—And speaking of artistic collaborations, the packaging design is also noteworthy.

Kate ForbesFor this packaging design, we commissioned Jonathan McCabe from Australia. This image of fabric undulating as if in motion was created by an algorithm derived from input data and rendered by a system. It's a truly remarkable piece that integrates emotional elements with technology.

With Tacit, as with our other products, we have collaborated with various individuals. Our store designs, such as those in Tokyo Midtown and Kyoto, are collaborations with Japanese architects. Recently, we also released a toilet deodorizer with the apparel brand A.P.C. Collaborations with external artists and specialists are incredibly stimulating and allow us to convey the world of Aesop to our customers from multiple perspectives. We want to continue expanding the Aesop experience through our shops and products. What we offer is not just products, but the Aesop experience – something to be felt.

Tacit Eau de Parfum
Price | ¥11,880 [50mL]

http://www.aesop.com

Kate Forbes
In addition to completing specialized courses in cosmetic science, she holds bachelor's and doctoral degrees in chemistry. As a key figure who embraces Aesop's meticulous approach to sourcing high-quality ingredients and raw materials with scientific inquiry and utmost care, she has been involved in the development of over 80% of the current product lineup. She currently oversees the development and management of all Aesop products, including new formulations, research and development, and global product safety and compliance – functions that are crucial to Aesop's continued growth.

Céline Barrel
She began her career as an intern at a renowned fragrance company while pursuing a master's degree in marketing and international business. After graduating, she joined International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) in Milan as a marketing associate, subsequently enrolling in their perfumery school and studying perfumery in the Netherlands, France, and the United States. She is currently based at IFF's creative center in New York, working in the Fine Fragrances division.