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May 11, 2015
Chiharu Nagatomi Interview: This autumn's fragrance trends.
Fragrance Feature | Chiharu Nagatomi Interview
This Autumn's Fragrance Trends (1)
Autumn 2010 has been an unusually bountiful season for fragrances. For women's scents, a succession of new releases from fashion brands like Calvin Klein, Emilio Pucci, and Chloé have arrived, while for men, major new fragrances have debuted, including Chanel's first new scent in 11 years and Bvlgari's fragrance featuring its first ambassador. Furthermore, this spring, the Japan Fragrance Association designated October 1st as "Perfume Day." With the upcoming announcement of the "1st Japan Fragrance Awards," interest in fragrance is growing. What, then, are the fragrance trends for Autumn 2010? We spoke with beauty expert Chiharu Nagatomi, a self-proclaimed fragrance enthusiast.
Text by OPENERS
Photos by Kenta Suzuki
Fragrance Trends Reflect the Times
—Seeing them all lined up like this, it's truly a rich selection. After trying them all, what are your thoughts?
Each brand feels very individual, with its own distinct character. Last year, it seemed like every women's fragrance was rose-based, but we've moved beyond that. For example, even within floral notes, they're now more finely categorized. I think this links to women's lifestyles. It's as if we've moved from a period of similar, imitative trends to an era where everyone possesses a completely different individuality.
—So, fragrance trends are linked to the image of women at the time.
Beauty expert Chiharu Nagatomi
Exactly, it reflects their way of life. That's why this year's scents are all so individual. I feel like the message now is that it's not an era for pleasing others, so women should wear the scents they love and assert their individuality. For instance, isn't it commonplace now for people with different types of personalities to coexist? It's a relationship where you can empathize with someone's lifestyle and acknowledge each other, even if you don't belong to the same category. Until recently, we saw phenomena like everyone around you wearing Chloé fragrances, but I feel like this is the brands' way of saying, 'Let's put an end to that.'
Fragrance Feature | Chiharu Nagatomi Interview
This Autumn's Fragrance Trends (2)
Women's Fragrances: Asserting Individuality Freely
—However, with so many unique scents, isn't it difficult to choose?
Certainly, if you have a clear idea of your image, like 'I have this kind of vibe,' or 'I want to be like this,' or 'This style suits me, so this fragrance fits,' then you can just pick one that matches. But for those without such a defined image, it might be challenging. However, since there's a fragrance for every style, I think it's fun to pick out a few and compare them.
—For example, if we were to categorize them...?
'Beauty' (Calvin Klein) is for the simply elegant woman who would look good in a white shirt. 'Miss Pucci' (Emilio Pucci) is for the feminine woman who is also appealing to men. 'For Her' (Narciso Rodriguez) is for the type who appeals to women rather than men. 'Shalimar' (Guerlain) is for the mysterious woman. 'Quis Quis Quis' (Loewe) is for the sophisticated woman who suits high heels (laughs).
—Indeed, they represent diverse female archetypes (laughs). From a different perspective, were there any scents you found particularly representative of this year?
'Play for Her' (Givenchy)
In terms of embodying this year's trends, 'Play for Her' (Givenchy) stands out by far. This form factor was unthinkable for a perfume until now. You'd always use an atomizer to carry it, but this can be slipped into your bag like a mobile phone, looks stylish just sitting in the car, and truly changes the concept of fragrance. Also, the men's 'Bleu de Chanel' (Chanel). Its use of scent is very contemporary. They've taken notes traditionally used in the base and deliberately brought them to the forefront. When you actually wear it, the initial impression is quite different from how it smells after some time, giving it a duality. And the fact that it's a men's fragrance that also looks cool on women. That, too, feels representative of the times.
Fragrance Feature | Chiharu Nagatomi Interview
This Autumn's Fragrance Trends (3)
Men's Fragrances: Increasing Androgyny in Scent
—Indeed, all the men's fragrances give the impression that women could wear them without issue.
Don't they? 'No. 11' (D&G) has a sophisticated scent without harsh edges, and 'MAN' (Bvlgari) is a refreshing oriental. Both are light. In the past, men's fragrances were very masculine, clearly identifiable as men's products by their scent, but they seem to be becoming increasingly androgynous. In that sense, perhaps the lack of gender boundaries is what's contemporary about men's fragrances this year.
—Do you think that also reflects the times?
I do. It's similar to the 'herbivore' trend; it feels like an era where what was considered traditionally masculine now seems to require special effort. Personally, I'm completely against that (laughs). If driving a luxury car and wearing a high-end watch no longer signify male status, then in the extreme, wouldn't it be cooler not to wear fragrance at all? I want to loudly proclaim that that's absolutely not acceptable! However, the increase in women who comfortably wear men's items is also a sign of the times. Today's women are more vibrant, stronger, and freer than men. So, I can kind of understand why 'Bleu de Chanel' talks about 'freedom.' It's like, women are too free right now, so men, step it up! (laughs).
—So, is the trend for women's fragrances this year a result of becoming too free, leading to a dispersion of styles?
Hahaha! That's certainly true. But I think the joy of having choices is a good thing. Fragrance, depending on what you choose at the moment, can even change your demeanor, can't it? It can calm your mind, enhance your concentration, or invigorate your spirit... For example, I try not to wear scents that are too sharp. Because I might become too intense (laughs).
—What do you use yourself, Ms. Nagatomi?
'For Her' (Narciso Rodriguez)
It's 'For Her' by Narciso Rodriguez. I love musk, so I was completely captivated by this. Actually, I used the fragrance oil of the same scent late last year and loved it so much that I asked, 'Do you have this as a perfume?' but was told it hadn't been released in Japan yet. So, it finally launched in Japan this autumn. I'd been eagerly awaiting it! As you try various fragrances, you might discover a 'signature scent,' but for me, it's a way to enjoy my own evolving self. Especially this year, with such a diverse range of unique scents, I hope everyone enjoys them from that perspective. If you choose a fragrance based on your current feelings, I believe you'll vividly recall who you were at that moment.