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July 20, 2015
AYAKO on the Ultimate The Eyeshadow | ADDICTION
ADDICTION
An Exclusive Interview with Japanese Makeup Artist AYAKO
The Ultimate "The Eyeshadow": The Beginning of ADDICTION's Second Chapter (1)
AYAKO, Creative Director of the artist-led cosmetics brand ADDICTION, returned to Japan temporarily to announce the new collection. Now in its sixth year, we spoke with her about the brand's return to its roots and its relationship with fashion.
Text by IKEGAMI Hiroko (OPENERS)
The Ephemeral Art of Makeup
Penélope Cruz, Naomi Campbell, Alicia Keys, Scarlett Johansson… This is just a fraction of the celebrities AYAKO has worked with. After leaving Japan in the 90s and moving her base to New York, it didn't take long for her to be sought after by stars and top creators.
"Working with top figures like Karl Lagerfeld, Terry Richardson, and global celebrities was stimulating and incredibly fulfilling. However, the work of a makeup artist leaves no tangible trace. While my friends in other artistic fields could leave their mark through painting or photography, my work as a makeup artist would disappear once the model removed it. My friends praised this as a beautiful, ephemeral art. But I still wanted to create something tangible from my work, and that's how ADDICTION began."
As she visited cosmetic fairs in Las Vegas, her desire for her own original brand grew daily, leading her to approach cosmetic manufacturers with her own concept. She was granted approval.
"I still cherish the concept sheet from that time. It had several keywords, such as 'JET SETTER,' 'movement and stillness,' 'red, white, and black,' and 'being Japanese.' I created it about eight years ago, but the concept hasn't changed at all since then."
ADDICTION's Second Chapter Begins
This unwavering, consistent worldview is perhaps ADDICTION's charm. The cosmetics, developed with meticulous attention to texture and color based on her experience in makeup artistry, have earned the trust of not only fashion-conscious women but also makeup professionals since the brand's inception. Now, in its sixth year, ADDICTION's second chapter is about to begin.

"After six years, I feel I've realized about 65% of the initial concept, and we've entered a phase of re-examining ADDICTION's core. Realistically, there are space limitations in cosmetic counters, and as we introduce new colors and products, some items must be retired. This means we've reached a stage of returning to the brand's origins and making choices. We've decided to relaunch our collection as an artist brand, curated with truly usable colors."
The Eyeshadow Collection, Born from AYAKO's Signature Smoky Eye
The first installment is the "The Eyeshadow" collection, launching in August. The range of 99 colors is befitting of an artist-led brand. It's an ultimate collection, differentiating basic colors like beige, brown, and black through variations in texture, finish, and color depth. This is a color collection that could only be created by AYAKO, known for her signature smoky eyes.
Even within the single category of brown, there are 22 shades with different finishes, from matte to pearl. She expresses confidence that customers will find exactly the color they're looking for.
"For example, I often did Penélope Cruz's makeup, and she didn't like reddish browns. Indeed, applying a strong reddish brown over a wide area of the eyelid can make it look puffy, and yellowish, khaki browns suit her eyes well."
"In this The Eyeshadow collection, in addition to color tones, we've also included variations in sheen, transparency, a dewy finish, and a smooth texture. I'm sure you'll find a brown that perfectly suits you."
Page02.ADDICTION and Fashion
Sought After by Top Global Creators
An Exclusive Interview with Japanese Hair & Makeup Artist AYAKO
The Beginning of ADDICTION's Second Chapter: The Ultimate "The Eyeshadow" (2)
ADDICTION and Fashion
The campaign visual, featuring "it" model Vanessa Moody, captures her looking directly into the lens with her hair slicked back. The smoky eyes, with deep brown "Chocolate High" applied along the lash line and a mauve-toned "Taxi Driver" across the lids, are striking.
"This time, I was inspired by New York, the place where I began my career as an artist, and named it 'TOUGH LOVE.' It's a rock-inspired, tough look, casually adorned with a leather biker jacket."
Fashion is an indispensable element when discussing ADDICTION. For AYAKO, who built her career in fashion photography, fashion and makeup are inseparable.
"On set, I always understand the concept of the fashion story before deciding on the direction of the makeup. For a white mohair knit, I'd aim for a transparent skin, a boyish look, and finish with just a red lip to create balance. Or, I might think, 'I want to do this kind of makeup, so let's dress her in this kind of clothing,' considering the overall look of the person."
Incidentally, her recent favorite is Celine, chosen for important occasions. For work and everyday wear, she favors Rick Owens, Alexander Wang, and Ann Demeulemeester, purchasing new items each season. Wearing clothes from designers with their own unique worlds gives her the power to stay true to herself, unswayed by seasons or trends.
Naming That Understands the Female Psyche
At the end of the interview, I asked about the intriguing color names. The brown that's almost black is "The End," the shimmering neutral beige is "9 1/2," and the cinnamon rose is "Singita" – the unique naming is impressive.

"I often draw inspiration from my favorite movies and music. I also use colors that evoke favorite hotels or places. In fact, due to trademark regulations, some names can no longer be used, so I have to come up with about 10 ideas for each color."
While the naming sometimes presents a challenge, she consistently devises exquisite names drawn from her experiences and repertoire. When asked why she dedicates so much time to this, she offered this thoughtful response:
"Why? Because when a friend asks, 'What's that lipstick color you're wearing?' wouldn't it be much nicer to say, 'It's ADDICTION's My Baby,' rather than just 'Pink Number 3'?"

AYAKO
A makeup artist based in New York. She has worked with renowned photographers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Steven Meisel, and Terry Richardson on international fashion magazines, advertising campaigns, and collections. She has a large following among Hollywood celebrities like Penélope Cruz, Scarlett Johansson, and Anne Hathaway, as well as top models like Naomi Campbell. In the music world, she has also worked on album covers and music videos for artists such as Alicia Keys and Jennifer Lopez. In 2009, she was appointed Creative Director and launched ADDICTION.
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ADDICTION BEAUTY
0120-586-683
www.addiction-beauty.com


