New lotions are released almost every month. Even with the same product, the “usage instructions” vary greatly by brand and texture. However, since it’s something used daily, many people tend to use it the way they’re accustomed to. Is it okay as long as you feel like it’s “absorbed into your skin”? …No, no, that personal method might actually be costing you.

Q. Ms. Okabe, is it really that important to use lotion as instructed?

OkabeWhile all lotions may look like similar hydration, their formulations, including penetration enhancers, naturally differ from product to product. And… for example, instructions might state a guideline like “apply a 500-yen coin-sized amount to cotton and pat well…” This assumes that after thorough patting, there will still be moisture left on the cotton.

It’s not that “lotion” remains on the cotton. Saturate the cotton with the guideline amount stated in the instructions and pat sufficiently. This allows only the beneficial ingredients to penetrate the skin, leaving unnecessary moisture on the cotton… This is the structure of lotions that recommend cotton use.

Q. So, it’s a win-win to apply it with your palms instead of using cotton, right?

OkabeYou think the beneficial ingredients in the lotion also provide hand care benefits? That’s unlikely. Your palms don’t absorb much. That’s why when you use a lotion recommended for cotton on your palms, it can feel sticky. The moisture that should remain on the cotton stays on your palms, which have low absorption, leading to that sensation. Furthermore, if you then touch your face with those hands and think, “It feels a bit sticky”… this sensation is unrelated to the lotion’s intended effect.

The idea that “it’s wasteful because it remains on the cotton” is mistaken. Lotions often have a texture that can easily spill from the palms, so using cotton properly can actually be more economical in the long run. Don’t worry. Even if it feels like there’s still some left on the cotton after using it, your skin is properly receiving the necessary ingredients.

Q. What about lotions that are meant to be applied with “palms”?

OkabeLotions that say “please use with your hands” are, naturally, formulated so that excess ingredients don’t remain on your palms. For example, some lotions have a viscous texture but absorb quickly and leave a refreshing feel on the skin. This is a strategy by the manufacturer to provide a sense of luxury with the viscosity, and then create a feeling of “absorption” by making it feel refreshing the moment it’s applied, so you perceive it as “rich yet fast-absorbing.”

Lotion and its application method are, in a sense, like the relationship between “paint and brush.” Just as there are watercolors painted by soaking the brush and oils painted by building up layers with a palette knife, the application method differs depending on the product’s structure.

However, it’s generally difficult to spread lotion evenly with just your palms, isn’t it? The face has uneven contours. Therefore, many manufacturers recommend using cotton to ensure even and uniform application.

Q. In other words, the application method is determined by the ingredients contained in the product?

OkabeNo, it’s the other way around. Cotton is fundamentally a material that absorbs “water.” By saturating this material with water, you can effectively and evenly deliver desired ingredients to the skin. Researchers formulating products in the lab alter the ingredient composition based on how the product is intended to be used. Therefore, the product’s formulation differs entirely depending on whether cotton is used or not.

And the recommended method from a company doesn’t change with every new product; it’s generally consistent. They don’t typically switch between recommending cotton or not for each new release. I worked in Albion’s research lab, and they were a cotton-using brand. As the saying goes, a craftsman is known by his tools (laughs).

Q. Choosing cotton also seems difficult.

OkabeIt’s best to use lotion and cotton from the same company. Many people blindly believe that “expensive cotton is better” or “natural materials are better,” but each company develops cotton that maximizes the effectiveness of its own products. Both developers and researchers are very particular about how their products are used. Therefore, for products where the usage method is emphasized, you should follow it precisely.

The dedication to cosmetics reflects a dedication to craftsmanship. The usage instructions are an expression of the researcher’s passion for the product and the high level of their message. Wouldn’t you agree that if someone tells you “eat this way,” you understand the flavor better than if they just say “eat freely”? Usage instructions are the same.

Q. So, if you don’t follow the usage instructions, the effectiveness…?

OkabeWell, even if you use it your own way, you’ll likely get about 70% of the effect that the product designers intended out of 100%. However, the usage instructions are like a love letter from the developer. Whether you value the sentiment in that love letter is also a factor in choosing a product, and it’s designed to maximize the product’s effectiveness, so I believe there’s no reason not to follow it.

Miyoji Okabe Official Site
The Science of "Beauty"The Garden of Beauty Science
http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~miyoharu/