[Limited Series 1] Let's Enjoy Sauna with Finns! Mindfulness Through SAUNA | TRAVEL
LOUNGE / TRAVEL
August 1, 2019

[Limited Series 1] Let's Enjoy Sauna with Finns! Mindfulness Through SAUNA | TRAVEL

TRAVEL｜Let's Go to Finland, the Home of Sauna!

Sauna Trail (Hopping from One Sauna to Another): Destination Finland Lakeland (Part 1)

Just as hot springs are a part of Japanese culture, saunas are a significant cultural element for Finns. Most homes have a private sauna, and they use it daily instead of taking a bath. Currently, there's a booming public sauna scene. You'll find 'classy' public saunas reminiscent of Japanese sento, as well as those like 'super sento' where you can dine and relax for half a day. And in the Lakeland region, there are even lakeside villas with saunas where you can 'dip yourself into the water'! In this article, I aim to explore the culture of saunas and introduce the various types available in different regions. Your next travel destination is Finland. Let your travel purpose be 'sauna'!

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

The Tastes and Preferences of a Sauna-Loving Nation

Imagine you were a foreigner. And you were coming to Japan for the first time.
I think you'd probably want to 'visit a traditional downtown sento.' For people with exactly the same tastes as me, I have a great recommendation! It's 'Rajaportti' in Tampere, a city in Finland's Lakeland. Here, I was truly amazed, exclaiming 'Atta!'.
As expected in modern times, card payments are accepted. Opening the door next to the attendant's desk leads to the changing room. Here, you undress and proceed to the sauna room, either naked or wrapped in a towel.
Yes, what I found was a 'heat wave sauna,' not a hot bath, which is the hallmark of a downtown sento. While I love to soak in a lukewarm bath and let my mind go blank, I equally enjoy the sensation of an intensely hot sauna that makes my fingertips tingle. It's always tough at first, but if you endure it, your cells become revitalized, and you feel incredibly refreshed when you leave. I don't dislike that feeling either.
Rajaportti, founded in 1906, is the oldest public sauna still in operation in Finland. The facilities are old, and there's no particular emphasis on stylishness, but it's incredibly authentic in the sense that it attracts true enthusiasts. The sauna stove is enormous, and the regular patrons unsparingly add water at short intervals, sending waves of intensely hot steam throughout the sauna each time.
A sauna hat is a must for this sauna! It feels like your hair might shrink from the heat. I wore my sauna hat deep, but still felt my earlobes might get scorched, so I wrapped a thick bath towel around my head. It's that intense here. But like a super hot bath, it's addictive. It's wonderful.
The sauna room is spread over two floors, with the stove on the first floor. There are piles of glowing hot stones here, constantly heated while the sauna is in operation. When löyly (adding water) is performed with a shovel-like tool, an incredibly loud 'BASHAAAAA' sound accompanies the powerful hot steam that rises towards the second floor. Of course, it's fine on the first floor, but the first floor is more of a washing area; to truly enjoy the sauna, the second floor is the place to be. Although separated by gender, the floors seem to be connected by airflow. When they vigorously add steam in the men's sauna, you can hear shouts of 'Stop it!' (presumably in Finnish, conveyed by the desperation in their voices).
However, saunas boasting extreme heat are apparently rare in Finland. Russian saunas tend to be more like that. According to Ayana Kobayashi, known as 'Suomi no Okan' (Finnish Mom) and a researcher of sauna culture...
'While the word 'sauna' is indeed Finnish, and Finland is the home of saunas, Finland is by no means the birthplace of the sauna.'
'The practice of steam bathing occurred simultaneously in various places across the northern Eurasian continent, and it's impossible to pinpoint where it originated.'
Nevertheless, it's somehow relatable that Tampere, once a thriving industrial city, gave birth to Rajaportti as a place for its laborers to wash off sweat, and that this sauna, after many twists and turns, now offers intensely hot steam bathing, much like a Tokyo downtown sento. A soak after work should be like this, right?
I mentioned 'twists and turns' because Rajaportti has actually closed down multiple times. Like Japanese sento, its local customer base drastically decreased once having a sauna at home became commonplace. However, it has recently seen a resurgence in popularity thanks to sauna enthusiasts. Doesn't this phenomenon resemble the situation of Tokyo's sento?
And what do you do with your intensely heated body? At Rajaportti, you actually do nothing. That's right, this urban public sauna has no cold plunge pool. You simply exit the sauna and cool your body in the outside air.
You sit on a bench, down a small bottle of beer, and spend a blissful time.
Rajaportti Sauna
Opening Hours | 18:00–22:00 (Mon, Wed), 15:00–21:00 (Fri), 14:00–22:00 (Sat)
Address | Pispalan valtatie 9 FI-33250 Tampere FINLAND
TEL | +358-50-310 2611 (Sauna)
+358-(0)3-213 0117 (Cafe)
URL |http://www.rajaportinsauna.fi/index.ja.php

The Latest Trendy Spot: Sauna Restaurant Kuuma

Conversely, Kuuma, located in the city center and built along the river, opened in June 2018. It's popular as a local cutting-edge trendy spot. Here, you can enjoy saunas along with a stylish restaurant and an open-deck bar. The sauna itself isn't large; the focus is on the dining facilities, with the sauna being secondary. Wearing swimwear is mandatory in the sauna. Therefore, it's designed for men and women to use the small sauna together, making it ideal for casual group use. It's like a stylish, small pool sauna at a city hotel, perhaps? Without worrying about details like makeup smudging, indulge in a luxurious adult pastime: champagne and sauna. It seems likely to become popular in Japan too. By the way, Kuuma means 'hot' in Finnish, playing on both the 'hot temperature' and the 'hot topic' status. How cliché!
Saunaravintola Kuuma
Address | Laukontori 21, 33100 Tampere, Finland
TEL | +358(0)3-371-4637
Restaurant Hours | 11:00–14:00 (Mon, Tue), 11:00–24:00 (Wed, Thu), 11:00–14:00 (Fri, Sat), 12:00–20:00 (Sun)
Sauna Hours | 11:00–14:00 (Mon–Sat), 12:00–20:00 (Sun)
URL |https://www.frantsilankehakukka.fi/en/
What is TAMPERE?
Tampere is Finland's third-largest city, with a population of over 200,000. It was the birthplace of the Finnish Industrial Revolution and the global company Nokia. Traditional architecture and modern urban development blend seamlessly, delighting visitors and residents alike. The Moomin Museum is also a popular attraction. It's about a 1.5-hour train ride from Helsinki.
Contact Information

Visit Finland
http://www.visitfinland.com/ja/

Details of the top image: The 'attendant's desk' at the public sauna 'Rajaportti' in Tampere. The right side is the entrance for men, and the left side is for women.

Photo Gallery