The dining room at OTTO SETTE, newly designed with a wine cellar theme. Eighteen guests gathered for
LOUNGE /
FEATURES
April 3, 2026
A Makers' Dinner: a blissful time for those in love with wine.
LOUNGE FEATURE | Kisvin x RISONARE Yatsugatake
The taste of wine is akin to love. The more you know about someone, the deeper their charm becomes. Knowing the face of the producer, touching their philosophy, walking the land where the grapes grew with your own feet. When these experiences accumulate, the liquid in the glass begins to shine in a completely different way— In March 2026, at the resort hotel "RISONARE Yatsugatake" in Yatsugatake, Yamanashi, a one-night-only Makers' Dinner was held in collaboration with the up-and-coming winery "Kisvin Winery." What the 18 participants experienced was not just a "night of exquisite food," but a time to fall in love with the very story of wine.
Text by Takashi Tsuchida
A Night Two Years in the Making Begins
The theme of the main dining room "OTTO SETTE" at RISONARE Yatsugatake, which was renovated in April 2024, is a wine cellar. The gravel-like floor, curtains adorned with grape leaves, and the view outside resembling a vineyard—all in Hoshino Resorts' signature sophisticated tone, creating the atmosphere of a wine theme park.
General Manager Takahashi said in his opening remarks:
"It's been two years since the renovation, but today is the first event we've held here."
This night was a meticulously planned event that had been two years in the making. RISONARE first approached Kisvin in the autumn of two years ago. Both parties hit it off, and each brought their own surprises. "It was great that it wasn't one-sided," recalled a RISONARE staff member. That equal relationship lent a special atmosphere to the evening.
Feeling the Terroir on the Wind During the Bus Ride
Prior to the dinner, participants headed to Kisvin Winery in Enzan, Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture. After touring the vineyard and winery, a surprise awaited them on the return journey.
On the way back, a restaurant bus developed by WILLER Inc. was waiting. This was the first time this vehicle had run within Yamanashi Prefecture. Knowing that it had obtained a license plate solely for this day and completed all application procedures with the transport bureau, simply boarding it sent a thrill of excitement.
The destination was "Ushioku Mihara-shi Hill." From this vantage point overlooking the Kofu Basin, with views of Mt. Fuji on clear days, Mayu Saito, General Manager of Winemaking at Kisvin, raised her glass. "Cheers to Kisvin Blanc!"—With those words, the journey began.
The six dishes served at the table were meticulously prepared by the chefs at OTTO SETTE. These included fried freshwater shrimp from Yamanashi, "Shingen Ebi," served as a torta in an Italian style, and a dish inspired by the local Yamanashi delicacy "Awabi no Nitsuke" (braised abalone). The "Kisvin Blanc 2024," enjoyed under the blue sky while gazing at the scenery of Enzan, was a refreshingly vibrant wine, field-blended from over twenty varieties of grapes, seemingly made for this very occasion.
Why is Kisvin Gaining Attention? Beyond the Cinderella Story
Kisvin Winery's origins lie in the ambition of a young farmer. Yasuhiro Ogihara, the third-generation owner of "Ogihara Vineyard," which has been in Koshu City's Enzan for generations, began converting table grapes to wine varietals around 2005, pondering how to become the "world's best" in the world of grapes. The winery itself was established in 2013.
A turning point came with his encounter with Gérard Basset, a Master of Wine and former World's Best Sommelier. Invited to dine with him during his visit to Japan, Saito and President Ogihara boarded the "Kaiji" express train, fully prepared—or so they thought. However, the train was delayed, and they realized they had forgotten their business cards. According to Saito, they tried to compose themselves with beers from the train's sales, much like a scene from "Tsuribaka Nisshi" (Fisherman's Blues), clutching the three business cards they happened to have left in their wallets as they headed to Tokyo.
At the dinner, Basset tasted Kisvin's Chardonnay, his cheeks flushing pink, and asked, "How many bottles do you make?" When told "1,700 bottles," he replied, "I'll buy 1,500." Saito immediately responded, "They are already sold out." The vintage was indeed completely sold out.
After such an exchange, Saito asked if he could take a photo of Basset holding a bottle of Kisvin. Basset retorted, "I am expensive." "Our wine is expensive too," Saito replied. It was a moment when mutual respect for each other's work was conveyed. That night, Basset posted a photo of Saito on social media, introducing him to the world.
However, Kisvin's essence is not confined to such a Cinderella story. It lies in their relentless pursuit of innovation that continues even after such success.
In the vineyard, they are experimenting with a hybrid trellising system that combines single and long cordons. They are pursuing methods to maximize the use of trellis space while reducing disease risks specific to Koshu grapes. The trellises made of iron pipes can be adjusted in height, and the vinyl rain covers are used differently for each varietal, with light transmittance verified annually. In the winery, they intentionally blend barrels from multiple manufacturers and toast levels to create complex flavor profiles.
"Many things written in textbooks don't work well when applied in the field," Saito explains. "That's why we try everything." She continued, "Originality emerges only after imitation, thorough exploration, and exhaustive effort."
Meticulously Crafted Pairings: Kitchen Work Centered Around Wine
"Today's dishes have been developed with the wines of Kisvin Winery as the star."
Masato Kamata, head chef at OTTO SETTE, explained the intention behind each of the eight courses.
A torta made with wild mountain vegetables was paired with Koshu Reserve 2022. The dish, featuring the bitterness of sansho and fukinoto, was enriched with plenty of Taleggio and Parmigiano, designed to harmonize the wine's barrel notes with the crust's aroma. "Initially, I considered something like a salad, but since the wine had barrel notes, the idea evolved into baking and frying the dough," Kamata recalled.
Chardonnay and Chardonnay Reserve from the 2022 vintage were paired with tonnarelli pasta with scampi. Partway through the meal, a gelatinous capsule was to be broken, releasing a rich bisque sauce to coat the pasta. The design offered a "two-stage flavor transformation" in a single dish, from the simple umami complementing the standard Chardonnay to the depth that stands up to the structure of the Reserve—a truly exquisite creation.
The potato-wrapped beef fillet was served with a tableside découpure (carving). The fillet, wrapped in spinach, was encased in sliced potatoes and carefully cooked to an internal temperature of 55 degrees Celsius. "I practiced this about 30 times to get it right," said Kamata, underscoring the dish's perfection.
The pairings were designed by sommelier Fumihiko Kamo. Kamo, who served as head sommelier for five years at the three-Michelin-starred "Lucas Carton" in Paris and received the Chevalier de l'Ordre du Mérite Agricole from France, had long discussed with Saito their desire to "host an event together." When Saito learned that sparkling wine would be paired with the dessert course, he remarked, "Is this what it means to have a partner whose hearts are in sync?" "Once a wine is bottled, there's not much the winemaker can do. It's all about how the chefs utilize it," Saito said. In response to his words, the eight dishes of the evening were created.
A Surprise That Embodies the Winery's Legacy of Succession
Midway through the dinner, a quiet surprise unfolded. A bottle not listed on the menu was gently brought to the table.
"This is the wine you saw on NHK's 'Professional: Shigoto no Ryugi' (Professional: Ways of Working)!"
Saito said, referring to Kisvin Zinfandel Rosé 2020. It was a wine born from the last harvest of a year marked by a difficult, rainy vintage, where the decision was made to prune the Zinfandel vines. Rei Kawakami, then in his third year at the company and 23 years old, was solely responsible for its winemaking.
"I climbed onto the tank every day to check on the fermentation, tasted it daily... I have only happy memories," Kawakami shared. One of the participants, taking a sip, murmured:
"This is the most delicious Zinfandel I've ever had in my life."
As the lingering taste spread, Saito stood up.
"As of today, I officially appoint Rei Kawakami as the Head of Winemaking at Kisvin Winery."
These words were spoken for the first time, at this place, on this night. Kawakami is 29 years old. He first entered Kisvin at the age of 20 while working part-time jobs, and after nine years, he has reached this point. His voice during the speech was calm yet filled with firm resolve. "I will continue to build upon the history of Kisvin that Ogihara and Saito have created, and I will strive to further enhance the quality of our wines."
Who are the "Makers" in Makers' Dinner? At this moment, the answer seemed clear. It doesn't just refer to those who made wine in the past. It signifies the chain of people who carry on today's glass and connect it to tomorrow's wine. Knowing the producer means knowing the time and commitment of the people behind the wine.
The End of the Makers' Dinner
To conclude the dinner, small glasses were served. It was a grappa made from Kisvin's grape pomace, a special bottling planned by RISONARE Yatsugatake staff and produced through contract brewing—a unique creation for this one night, never to be released commercially. Only those present that night knew of its existence.
"It's been a day that makes me feel glad I make wine," shared Mayu Saito, her words creating a shared moment of quiet understanding among everyone present.
What is the essence of a Makers' Dinner? Isn't it falling in love with wine? A glass savored after a glimpse behind the scenes remains etched in memory for a long time. Indeed, everyone present that day must have fallen in love with Kisvin.
●Main Dining Room "OTTO SETTE"
https://hoshinoresorts.com/jp/sp/ottosette/
https://hoshinoresorts.com/jp/sp/ottosette/
With the cooperation of
RISONARE Yatsugatake, Kisvin Winery