The dining room at OTTO SETTE, newly designed with a wine cellar theme. Eighteen guests gathered for
LOUNGE /
FEATURES
April 3, 2026
A Makers' Dinner: a blissful time for those in love with wine.
LOUNGE FEATURE | Kisvin x RISONARE Yatsugatake
The taste of wine is akin to love. The more you come to know someone, the deeper their charm becomes. Knowing the maker, experiencing their philosophy, walking the land where the grapes grew. When these experiences accumulate, the liquid in the glass begins to radiate a completely different brilliance— In March 2026, at the resort hotel "RISONARE Yatsugatake" in Yamanashi's Yatsugatake, a one-night-only winemaker's dinner was held in collaboration with the emerging winery "Kisvin Winery." What the 18 participants experienced was not merely "a night of fine dining," but a time to fall in love with the very story of wine.
Text by Takashi Tsuchida
A Night Two Years in the Making
The theme of the main dining room "OTTO SETTE" at RISONARE Yatsugatake, which was renovated in April 2024, is a wine cellar. The gravel-like floor, curtains adorned with grape leaves, and the view outside resembling a vineyard—all rendered with Hoshino Resorts' signature sophisticated tone, creating the ambiance of a wine theme park.
General Manager Takahashi said in his opening remarks:
"It's been two years since the renovation, but this is the first event we've held here."
This evening was a plan meticulously prepared over two years. RISONARE first approached Kisvin in the autumn of two years ago. Both parties hit it off, and each brought their own surprises. "It was great that it wasn't one-sided," recalled a RISONARE staff member. That equal partnership lent a special atmosphere to the evening.
A Bus Ride to Feel the Terroir on Your Cheeks
Before the dinner, participants headed to Kisvin Winery in Enzan, Koshu City, Yamanashi Prefecture. After touring the vineyard and winery, a surprise awaited them on the return journey.
At the destination on the return trip, a restaurant bus developed by WILLER Inc. was waiting. This was the first time this vehicle had driven on public roads in Yamanashi Prefecture. Knowing that it had obtained a license plate solely for this day and completed all necessary procedures with the transport bureau, simply boarding it sent a thrill of anticipation.
The destination was "Ushioku Mihara-shi Hill." From this vantage point overlooking the Kofu Basin, with views of Mt. Fuji on clear days, Mayu Saito, Kisvin's General Viticulturist, raised her glass. "To Kisvin Blanc, cheers!"—With those words, the journey began.
The six dishes served were meticulously crafted by the chefs at OTTO SETTE. Shrimp fritters made with "Shingen Ebi," a freshwater shrimp from Yamanashi; a torta inspired by "Abalone Nimono," a local Yamanashi delicacy; and a sformato of seasonal nanohana. Enjoyed under the blue sky with views of Enzan, the "Kisvin Blanc 2024," a field blend of over twenty grape varieties, offered a refreshing taste that seemed tailor-made for the occasion.
Why Kisvin Garners Attention: Beyond the Cinderella Story
Kisvin Winery's origins lie in the ambition of a young farmer. Yasuhiro Ogihara, the third-generation owner of "Ogihara Vineyard," which has been in his family for generations in Enzan, Koshu City, began converting table grapes to wine varietals around 2005, pondering how to become the best in the world of grapes. The winery itself was established in 2013.
A turning point came with his encounter with Gérard Basset, a Master of Wine and former World's Best Sommelier. Invited to dine with him during his visit to Japan, Saito and President Ogihara boarded the Limited Express Kaiji train, fully prepared—only to face a delay and the realization that they had forgotten their business cards. According to Saito, they regrouped with beer from the train's beverage service, "like something out of a fishing comedy," clutching the three business cards they happened to have in their wallets as they headed to Tokyo.
At the dinner, Basset tasted Kisvin's Chardonnay, his cheeks flushing pink, and asked, "How many bottles do you make?" "1,700 bottles," he replied. "I'll buy 1,500," Basset responded. Saito immediately replied, "They are already sold out." That vintage was indeed completely sold out.
After such an exchange, Saito asked if he could take a photo of Basset holding a bottle of Kisvin. Basset retorted, "I am expensive." "Our wine is expensive too," Saito replied. It was a moment of mutual respect for each other's work. That night, Basset posted about Saito on social media to the world.
However, Kisvin's essence extends beyond such a Cinderella story. It lies in their relentless pursuit of innovation that continues even after such success.
In the vineyard, they are experimenting with a hybrid trellising system combining single and double Guyot pruning. They are exploring ways to maximize the use of canopy space while reducing disease risks specific to Koshu grapes. The trellises made of iron pipes can be adjusted in height, and the plastic rain covers are chosen for each varietal after annual verification of light transmittance. In the winery, they intentionally blend barrels from multiple manufacturers and with different toast levels to create complex flavor profiles.
"Many things written in textbooks don't work when applied in the field," Saito explains. "So, we try everything." She continued, "Originality emerges only after imitation, thorough exploration, and exhaustive effort."
Meticulously Crafted Pairings: Kitchen Work Centered Around Wine
"Today's dishes have been developed with the wines of Kisvin Winery as the star attraction."
Masato Kamata, Head Chef at OTTO SETTE, explained the intention behind each of the eight courses.
The Koshu Reserve 2022 was paired with a wild vegetable torta. This dish, featuring the bitterness of sansai (mountain vegetables) like udo and fukinoto, enriched with plenty of Taleggio and Parmigiano, was designed to harmonize the wine's barrel notes with the pastry's aroma. "Initially, I considered something like a salad," Kamata recalled, "but given the barrel notes in the wine, the idea evolved towards baking and frying the dough."
The 2022 vintages of Chardonnay and Chardonnay Reserve were served with scampi tonnarelli. Partway through the meal, a gelatinous capsule was to be broken, releasing a rich shrimp bisque sauce to coat the pasta. This ingenious design offered a "dual flavor transformation" within a single dish, starting with the simple umami that echoed the standard Chardonnay and evolving into a depth that matched the structure of the Reserve—a truly exquisite creation.
The beef fillet baked in potato crust was served with a tableside découpure (carving). The fillet, wrapped in spinach, was encased in sliced potatoes and cooked carefully to an internal temperature of 55 degrees Celsius. "I practiced this dish about 30 times to get it right," said Kamata, underscoring the dish's perfection.
The pairings were designed by sommelier Fumihiko Kamo. Kamo, who served as head sommelier for five years at the three-Michelin-starred "Lucas Carton" in Paris and received the Chevalier de l'Ordre du Mérite Agricole, had long discussed with Saito the desire to "collaborate on an event." When Saito learned that sparkling wine would be paired with the dessert course, he remarked, "Is this what it means to have a partner whose hearts are in sync?" "Once a wine is bottled, there's not much the winemaker can do. It's all about how the chefs utilize it"—Saito's words seemed to be answered by the eight courses created for this evening.
A Surprise That Became a Living Testament to the Winery's Legacy
Midway through the dinner, a quiet surprise unfolded. A bottle not listed on the menu was gently brought to the table.
"This is that wine you saw on NHK's 'Professional: Shigoto no Ryugi' (Professional: Ways of Working)."
Saito said this referring to Kisvin Zinfandel Rosé 2020. It was a wine born from the last harvest of a year when the difficult decision was made to prune the Zinfandel vines due to heavy rains. Rei Kawakami, then in his third year with the company at the age of 23, was solely responsible for its vinification.
"I climbed onto the tank every day to check on the fermentation, tasted it daily... I have only happy memories," said Kawakami. One of the participants, taking a sip, murmured:
"This is the most delicious Zinfandel I've ever had in my life."
As the lingering taste spread, Saito stood up.
"As of today, I officially appoint Rei Kawakami as the Head of Winemaking at Kisvin Winery."
These words were spoken for the first time, here and now. Kawakami is 29 years old. He knocked on Kisvin's door at 20 while working part-time jobs, and nine years later, he arrived here. His voice, as he took the podium, was calm yet filled with firm resolve. "I will continue to build upon the history of Kisvin that Ogihara and Saito have created, and I will strive to further enhance the quality of our wines."
Who are the "makers" in a winemaker's dinner? At this moment, the answer seemed clear. It doesn't just refer to those who made wine in the past. It signifies the chain of people who carry forward today's glass to tomorrow's wine. Knowing the maker means knowing the time and commitment of the people behind the wine.
The Climax of the Winemaker's Dinner
To conclude the dinner, small glasses were served. This was a grappa, made from Kisvin's grape pomace, conceptualized by RISONARE Yatsugatake staff and contract-distilled—a unique bottle created solely for this evening, never to be released commercially. Only those present that night knew of its existence.
"It's been a day that makes me glad I make wine," Saito Mayu's words filled the room, a sentiment shared by all.
What is the essence of a winemaker's dinner? Isn't it falling in love with wine? A glass savored after a glimpse behind the scenes remains etched in memory for a long time. Indeed, everyone present that day must have fallen in love with Kisvin.
●Main Dining Room "OTTO SETTE"
https://hoshinoresorts.com/jp/sp/ottosette/
https://hoshinoresorts.com/jp/sp/ottosette/
With the cooperation of
RISONARE Yatsugatake, Kisvin Winery