The phrase "Nakasu" is now known nationwide. One might imagine it as a treasure trove of gastronomy, a city where people gather as if it were a city that never sleeps. While Nakasu, Nakasu-Kawabata, and Nishi-Nakasu each have subtle differences in their names and nuances, the area's charm lies in its blend of a lively, food-centric atmosphere with the calm presence of offices and other establishments.

While it may tend to be overshadowed by its glittering image, it also boasts a cultural side, with long-established stores lining the streets and Hakataza, Kyushu's largest theater, located here. What's intriguing is that as you walk through these streets, you feel a sense of transformation, a spirit of embracing new endeavors in line with the times while preserving age-old traditions.
Transforming while maintaining a timeless elegance and depth. By naming this atmosphere "Okunaka-su," perhaps we can discover a new charm of Fukuoka. This article begins from that perspective. The allure of Okunaka-su, yet unknown to many. We aim to unravel it from various viewpoints.

For our first installment, we spoke with Mr. Narimasa Nakaoka, the president of Suzukake, a long-established Japanese confectionery store founded in 1923, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. Mr. Nakaoka is the individual who has breathed new life into Suzukake with modern arrangements, while leveraging the traditions the store has inherited.

Suzukake's flagship store is located near Nakasu-Kawabata Station. Passing through the striking five-colored noren curtain, you'll find a cafe called a tea house on the left and the confectionery shop on the right. Beyond that, you can glimpse the confectioners at work. The store was designed by Koichi Futatsumata, a Fukuoka-based designer who has worked on numerous renowned establishments nationwide. His designs are characterized by their sharpness yet calming presence. The furniture within the store is original, custom-made to allow for a leisurely experience. This attention to detail is reflected throughout the premises. The walls of the confectionery sales area are polished with black lime plaster, making the displayed products appear to float. It exudes a certain divinity, not just as a confectionery store, but as a brand continuing a 100-year tradition. While possessing an exterior that appears avant-garde for a Japanese confectionery shop, its hospitality, embedded traditional techniques, and meticulous details ensure it never loses its heritage as a long-established store. Such unconstrained creativity is likely what draws people in.

How does Mr. Nakaoka, the fourth-generation head of Suzukake, who embodies this sense of both preservation and innovation, perceive the new perspective of Okunaka-su?

"While Nakasu now has a strong image of glamour, it used to be a place lined with movie theaters, where people would go dressed up for special occasions on weekends. Also, during the annual 'Hakata Gion Yamakasa' festival, the entire Nakasu area reaches its peak of excitement, with Kushida Shrine at its center. Historically, it's also a region where many temples and shrines are gathered in its vicinity. It's referred to as the 'Old Hakata Townscape,' and as this term suggests, remnants of the good old townscape can be found here and there. I hope people will not only enjoy dining but also savor the town's atmosphere by walking around. The ambiance of Nakasu's inner sanctum, so to speak, could be precisely what we call Okunaka-su."

"Speaking further from a cultural perspective, Northern Kyushu was also a place where Western culture first arrived. For example, castella and maruborou, which use a generous amount of flour, are distinctly different from Japanese confectionery. As these were introduced to Kyoto, the capital, they were adapted to suit Japanese tastes. Hakata was no exception; this region became the origin from which manju and tea spread throughout Japan. In this way, perhaps the original Hakata also possesses an aspect of fostering culture."

Suzukake itself is also striving to create new trends while leveraging the craftsmanship rooted in its history. "Suzunomonaka" and "Suzuno Enmoji" are iconic representative works of Suzukake, but the seasonal sweets that change monthly are inspired by the calendar of the year and seasonal flowers, offering a wide variety. Some even incorporate Western ingredients like maple syrup, which are not traditionally used in Japanese confectionery. Such creations are not bound by the framework of Japanese sweets.

"It's important that we want to eat it ourselves. Therefore, rather than focusing on the ingredients or how to make them, we want to actively incorporate anything we find delicious and pursue what we find interesting."

Creating a connection between Japanese confectionery and the modern era. This is the essence of the current Suzukake led by Mr. Nakaoka.

Furthermore, Mr. Nakaoka has another role besides being the representative of Suzukake. He is also one of the initiators of "Nakasu Jazz," which is celebrating its 15th year as one of Nakasu's new attractions.

"While Nakasu used to be a place families enjoyed visiting, it recently developed a stronger image as a nightlife district, so I felt a desire to return it to a town that everyone could enjoy. As I conversed with people in the town who shared the same sentiment, the idea of borrowing the power of music came up. So, I proposed closing off the roads in the Nakasu area, similar to the Hakata Gion Yamakasa festival, and enjoying jazz there. That's how Nakasu Jazz began. It started as a spontaneous idea, but with the support of many people, we even had renowned musicians perform. Although we had to cancel live events due to the pandemic and typhoons, this year marks its 15th anniversary. It has become a more magnificent event than I ever imagined."

Nakasu Jazz, born from the desire to transform the Nakasu area, which has recently tended to be perceived as a nightlife district, into a town that people of all ages can enjoy from all over the country, will serve as an entryway to Okunaka-su.

However, Mr. Nakaoka also expressed a desire for people not to focus solely on events.

"It makes me happy that many people come to Fukuoka to participate in events like Nakasu Jazz, but I also want them to enjoy everyday encounters. To pop into a shop they discover while walking around, or to peek into a temple or shrine they didn't know about. This town is also constantly undergoing small changes, which I find interesting. After all, the people here inherently like new things (laughs)."

Finally, we asked Mr. Nakaoka to speak again about Okunaka-su from his perspective.

"I want it to be a place of quality everyday life. That's how I think about creating my shop and products, and at the root of that thinking is the DNA that this town possesses. Perhaps it's because such daily life breathes within Okunaka-su that travelers find it so comfortable."

Quality everyday life. This is the symbol of the calm atmosphere that can be felt wherever you go in Okunaka-su. The depth of the Old Hakata Townscape felt around the next corner. The serene expressions of the people passing by. Small yet elegant雑貨店 (zakka-ten, variety stores). Hakata dolls displayed in front of shops.

Instead of just passing through, why not take a slightly slower walk and discover something? Let that be the purpose of your time in Okunaka-su. For the charm of Okunaka-su is packed into the casual air of the town.

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~An urban resort where you can feel the charm of nature, embraced by Kyushu's nature, and find healing~
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