"Coffee is a Shared Global Ingredient" – That's Why I Wanted to See the Production Sites Myself

"Seeing the faces of the producers" implies understanding who grows the product, under what environmental conditions it's cultivated, and how their working conditions are protected.

"After taking a small plane from São Paulo, Brazil, and then traveling through areas that barely qualified as roads, surrounded by untouched nature, I arrived at the farmland. I found generational farmers and workers diligently toiling beneath them... My initial impression was, 'Just as I suspected.'"

Coffee, which requires a hot climate and abundant rainfall, is largely grown in rainforests (subtropical regions). This often leads to harsh working conditions, with many migrant workers and a high prevalence of difficult labor environments. I imagined this was far from the equal and fair treatment that workers receive in developed countries.

"I had the opportunity to try Feijoada, a dish of black beans (a Brazilian staple) simmered with sausage, and simple fried tapioca flour, prepared by the local women. These are typical Brazilian home-cooked meals. They weren't luxurious, but they were incredibly delicious, and the local people seemed to enjoy this way of eating. They didn't seem to require a lot of money, nor did they feel unhappy eating the same meals day after day. It's not like the excessive desire we have in Japan to 'eat Chinese today, go for sushi tomorrow, and try Italian occasionally.'"

In developed countries, we often feel a sense of dissatisfaction if we don't meet the "raised standards" – wearing the same clothes as everyone else, owning similar bags and shoes...

Observing life on the local farms, Chef Narisawa strongly felt that the environment significantly influences how people perceive their own "fulfillment" and happiness.

He began to seriously consider: "What do the people working on this coffee farm consider 'fortunate'? What needs to be protected?"

"I felt that it's crucial to ensure at a minimum: good health, labor that isn't excessively harsh, proper days off, access to nutritious meals, and wages sufficient to meet their needs here."

"While organizations like the Rainforest Alliance are already engaged in similar initiatives, Nespresso's AAA program is particularly well-suited because, in addition to basic conditions like health checks and working hours, it provides specific guidance, such as recommending hats for workers laboring under the hot sun, and the use of protective goggles when grinding beans with machinery to prevent them from flying out. I found it very logical."

Sharing Market Value and Growing Demand to Support Increased Farmer Profits

He also noted the increasing global demand for coffee. If Chinese and Indian consumers, who currently prefer tea, begin to embrace coffee, the consumption volume will be immense.

"As demand grows, the farms should become more prosperous. However, it's essential that the profits are also distributed to the workers and not just hoarded by the farm owners. The AAA program involves disclosing information to farm owners, including the current market price of coffee beans, ensuring proper information sharing."

"Furthermore, when issues like crop diseases or poor harvests arise, Nespresso dispatches specialized academics to the farms to act as consultants. This is support for productivity. I realized that maintaining a balance between the environment (farmland and machinery), working conditions, and quality is what leads to 'sustainability.'"

Nespresso's Role in Elevating Global Coffee Production

In the past, the flow of information was one-way, from producer to consumer. Producers had no way of knowing where their coffee was consumed, by whom, or on what occasions, leading to little sense of accomplishment or reward.

"The reason I source meat, fish, and vegetables directly from producers at NARISAWA is that I can understand their hard work and re-appreciate the value of the ingredients. By visiting the farms, I can also communicate how the dishes are prepared and how customers enjoy them. This not only gives producers a sense of achievement and satisfaction that money can't buy, but it also fuels their motivation to continue their demanding work. I don't visit Tsukiji (fish market) because I can't have that kind of exchange with the producers."

Through this visit, Chef Narisawa realized that Nespresso, as a company, engages in similar exchanges.

"Having seen the actual conditions, it was immediately clear that this isn't something they just started doing recently. It's the result of continuous support from Nespresso and the dedication of professional teams, which allows for the consistent enjoyment of a high-quality cup."



I also learned that the organic coffee served at NARISAWA comes from a farm in Minas Gerais, Brazil, which is the only one they visited that practices complete organic farming, even using pesticide-free feed for their chickens.

"As my philosophy emphasizes organic practices, I import green beans via airfreight from 'Café Pelé,' Brazil's number one coffee company. However, roasting with binchotan charcoal is extremely difficult, and even brewing a single cup can result in inconsistent flavor."

Because Chef Narisawa himself understands the challenges of preparing a perfect cup, he deeply appreciates the consistent quality and the convenience offered by Nespresso. He looks forward to the continued efforts of the AAA program.
Chef Narisawa concluded with the following remarks:

"The farmers we work with were initially seen as eccentric for their commitment to organic methods. By continuing to support these farmers in my role, I am reminded of my commitment to consistently provide high-quality cuisine that our customers expect."

YOSHIHIRO NARISAWA
A chef and owner of "NARISAWA" in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo. Born in Tokoname City, Aichi Prefecture, in 1969. After spending eight years training under renowned chefs in Europe from the age of 19, he opened "La Napoule" in Odawara, Kanagawa Prefecture, as an owner-chef upon his return to Japan. This small restaurant by the harbor, which attracted many celebrities and gourmands from Tokyo, is still spoken of as a legend. In 2003, he renamed the restaurant "Les Créations de NARISAWA" and relocated to Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo. In 2011, the restaurant was renamed "NARISAWA." His messages of environmental regeneration and sustainable practices have been acclaimed at culinary conferences worldwide, including in France, Italy, Spain, and Brazil. In 2011, he was named one of "The World's Most Influential Chefs" at Madrid Fusion.

NARISAWA
Hours | Lunch: 12:00 PM - 1:00 PM (Last Order), Close 3:00 PM
Dinner: 6:30 PM - 9:00 PM (Last Order)
Closed Sundays and irregular holidays
2-6-15 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. +81-3-5785-0799

http://www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com/