A new style of shochu, crafted with meticulous care and time. Introducing the luxury distilled spirit, "HITOYO" | FEATURE
LOUNGE / FEATURES
June 13, 2023

A new style of shochu, crafted with meticulous care and time. Introducing the luxury distilled spirit, "HITOYO" | FEATURE

FEATURE | HITOYO

Aged Aromas Rivaling Whisky! Shochu Enters the Era of Savoring Exquisite Sips

While sake has seen various experimental endeavors, a new product has emerged, hinting that such trends may be extending to "shochu." This is the premium shochu, "HITOYO." Through innovative ideas previously unseen in shochu production, your everyday shochu is elevated manifold.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

Three Items Released Initially, with More Planned for the Series

The catalyst was aged shochu being developed by "Kozakura Shuzo" in Kushima City, Miyazaki Prefecture. With an "ultra-long" aging period of 32 years (details to follow), it completely lacks the sharp attack of distilled spirits. Its endlessly smooth texture and sweet, mellow aroma derived from the barrels offer a revelation, akin to an "aha!" moment, showing "how much shochu can change when it's dressed up."
Fundamentally, shochu has lacked a culture of aging. This is because the aroma and flavor of the raw ingredients alone are sufficient to stand on their own. Shochu production involves a process of making koji. This is a significant difference from overseas distilled spirits like whisky and brandy. While the ingredients for koji are diverse, including rice, barley, and sweet potato, it is this koji that boosts the flavors derived from the ingredients, making it delicious even without the embrace of aged aromas. This is where it differs from overseas distilled spirits, where the aging process is essential.
Whisky and brandy, in principle, do not involve the concept of koji.
Its color is reminiscent of whisky, but this is due to the Maillard reaction occurring over time between sugars and amino acids. It is, in essence, proof of aging, just like in whisky and other spirits.
In this context, we are deeply grateful to the late head of Kozakura Shuzo, who dared to undertake the grand experiment of aging shochu. Maintaining aging barrels for 32 years—an "ultra-long" period—was by no means easy. Shochu breweries are not in a position to store products that may or may not ultimately be marketable. Furthermore, the fact that the success or failure of this endeavor would not be determined during his lifetime, but passed on to the next generation, is truly remarkable.
Additionally, we extend our respect to the production team "Local Local" who made the commercialization of this shochu a reality. The aged shochu, which had been stored at the brewery, could not be sold as-is due to issues with liquor tax laws. For instance, its color. Shochu regulations do not anticipate aging, so if the amber hue exceeds a certain level, it is not recognized as shochu. Despite these complex challenges, we hear they managed to bring it to a marketable standard while maintaining its high quality.
Mr. Emoto, the founder of HITOYO, stated, "I felt a significant gap between the many high-quality domestic distilled spirits lying dormant, comparable to whisky, that were not seeing the light of day, and the declining image and consumption of shochu." Indeed, with the exception of a few products, shochu often carries the image of a casual, inexpensive drink.
Mr. Emoto continued, "Because it is a distilled spirit, I believe it has very high potential in terms of its capacity for storage and aging." Indeed, there is no doubt that the "HITOYO" brand, spearheaded by Mr. Emoto, will foster a new perception of "luxury shochu" going forward.
Now, for the first installment of the "HITOYO" brand, three distinct labels have been released.
HITOYO Al Kaphras
Category | Authentic Shochu
Ingredients | Barley, Barley Koji
Alcohol Content | 35%
Volume | 700ml
Price | ¥55,000 (incl. tax)
Manufacturer | Kozakura Shuzo
First, we have "HITOYO Al Kaphras" from Kozakura Shuzo, which has been mentioned earlier.
This is a 32-year aged spirit. It was first aged for several months in kame-tsubo (earthen jars, which absorb excess impurities), then transferred to oak barrels for 10 years. However, aging too long in wooden barrels can lead to excessive tannins and bitterness, so it was returned to a tank for an additional 22 years of aging. After the decision to commercialize it, it was returned to oak barrels once more for flavor enhancement.
Such meticulous effort... As mentioned before, upon tasting, you will be surprised by its smooth texture. This is because the generated alcohol combines with other components over time, stabilizing. It also possesses an aroma reminiscent of fine, long-aged whisky. As Kozakura Shuzo experimentally produced this spirit and Local Local purchased it for sale, once the 1000 bottles from the two barrels are sold out, it will never be available again.
HITOYO δ Centauri
Category | Authentic Shochu
Ingredients | Barley, Barley Koji
Alcohol Content | 35%
Volume | 700ml
Price | ¥34,100 (incl. tax)
Manufacturer | Kozakura Shuzo
Similarly, "HITOYO δ Centauri," a 7-year aged shochu also from Kozakura Shuzo, was aged for several months in kame-tsubo before being aged in oak barrels for 7 years. Compared to "Al Kaphras," it retains more of its fresh character, while simultaneously offering the enjoyment of aged aromas.
HITOYO Salm
Category | Authentic Shochu
Ingredients | Junmai Daiginjo Sake Lees
Alcohol Content | 35%
Volume | 700ml
Price | ¥29,700 (incl. tax)
Manufacturer | Tate no Kawa Shuzo
And "HITOYO Salm" is a kasutori shochu made from the lees of Junmai Daiginjo sake, produced by Tate no Kawa Shuzo, a sake brewery in Yamagata Prefecture. This is akin to Marc de Bourgogne or Grappa, which are distilled from grape pomace.
These three are the items released as the first installment of the "HITOYO" brand. "Local Local" continues to advance various projects to explore the further potential of luxury shochu.
While everyday shochu is wonderful, these exceptional shochu, crafted with time and effort, are something to be enjoyed now. Despite being luxurious, the prices of shochu are still relatively affordable compared to other distilled spirits. And as we've seen with domestic whisky, when demand increases, prices tend to soar. You can understand this.
Don't miss out on the novelty of accessible luxury spirits!
Inquiries

HITOYO
https://hitoyo.store/

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