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[13th Grand Prix du Reportage Award Winner] Embark on a 'Luxury Adventure' Aboard an Exploration Vessel
Award-Winning Article: 13th Prix du Reportage
A Voyage from Bordeaux to Normandy Aboard the Silver Explorer
Feature: Embark on a Luxurious Adventure Aboard an Expedition Ship (1)
When one thinks of a cruise, the image that comes to mind is of gentlemen and ladies in black tie and long gowns, with glamorous evening events and numerous protocols. This is, of course, correct. A cruise is, after all, a social gathering on the sea. However, a new way to enjoy cruising has begun to emerge. This is the journey aboard the Silver Explorer, an expedition ship with a concept of adventurous experiences. This is offered by Silversea Cruises, which provides the highest level of luxury cruises. They not only offer cruises to polar regions like Antarctica and the Arctic but also sail to exotic destinations that stimulate intellectual curiosity, such as the west coast of Africa and Central and South America. This time, we invite you on a journey to familiar places like Bordeaux and Normandy, experienced with a sense of soft adventure.
Text & Photographs by TERADA Naoko
The Ultimate Life Aboard the World's Most Elegant Expedition Ship
The Silver Explorer was born in 2008. Initially, it set sail as the Prince Albert II, named after the Prince of Monaco, known for his adventurous spirit. The christening ceremony was blessed by the Holy See. Later, it was renamed the Silver Explorer and has since garnered attention as a luxury cruise ship offering the once-in-a-lifetime dramatic experience of exploration.
At 6072 tons and with a passenger capacity of 132, this is a sophisticated yet authentic expedition ship designed for navigating polar regions like the Arctic and Antarctic. A key feature is its eight Zodiac boats. It has achieved the highest ice class rating (1A) for hull structure in icy waters from Lloyd's Register, one of the world's most authoritative ship classification societies. Its robust body is adapted to harsh environments.
Leveraging its high specifications, last February, it made its first-ever arrival at Elephant Island in Antarctica, where survivors of Ernest Shackleton's expedition waited for over four months for rescue ships, reaching Point Wild with 120 guests.
The Silver Explorer stands out not only for its service but also for its unique schedule. What most distinguishes it from other cruise ships is the presence of an expedition team. Comprising about ten dedicated staff members, including a leader with exceptional skills and experience, as well as biologists, geologists, and historians, they accompany guests. From operating Zodiac boats and leading treks to providing lectures on ecosystems and flora and fauna as interpreters, they perfectly manage the operations to ensure guests fully enjoy the itinerary.
What's more, this expedition team is remarkable for constantly researching new locations and experiences, even when visiting the same place, and evolving the itinerary in pursuit of the "best of the best." Although their activities were somewhat limited on this European cruise to the English Channel, their skill in providing detailed daily briefings on the next day's itinerary, including weather, walking distance, and difficulty, was astonishing.
Furthermore, while optional tours outside the ship usually incur additional charges, everything is included on the Silver Explorer, which is a significant attraction. Consequently, guests can fully satisfy their intellectual curiosity and enjoy nature experiences to their heart's content, thanks to the expedition team's ability to respond accurately to all questions and requests.
Dedicated Butler Service Enhances the Glamorous Cruise
Even in the Antarctic Peninsula, where temperatures hover around 0°C in summer, guests can be seen inside the ship chatting with champagne in hand. This is the scene aboard the Silver Explorer. While it is a high-spec expedition ship, the onboard cruise life is the same as on other Silversea ships – always elegant and luxurious. There is no compromise due to it being an expedition ship.
However, the onboard style is, so to speak, "smart casual." Even for dinner, casual attire like a lambswool sweater and chinos is perfectly acceptable. There are no formal gala dinners requiring black tie, which are essential on most cruises. The strictest dress code is "informal," meaning semi-formal. At dinner, you might see gentlemen in tweed jackets looking scholarly, alongside gentlemen in exquisite cashmere suits. The true charm of the Silver Explorer lies in its sophisticated yet unpretentious atmosphere, created by its discerning guests.
Silversea Cruises ships are renowned for their high level of hospitality, with nearly one crew member per guest. The most luxurious experience is the butler service. Furthermore, all Silversea Cruises ships are all-suite, and the Silver Explorer is no exception. Upon checking into my suite, my assigned butler immediately came to greet me. He was a tall Indian man in a tailcoat, with experience at top hotels like The Taj Mahal Palace in India. With beautiful English and a gentle smile, he asked, "Please feel free to call on me anytime. Would you care for some afternoon tea first?"
At Silversea Cruises, all three meals, as well as the mini-bar including champagne and room service, are included in the fare. On this cruise, when the ship swayed due to strong winds, my butler carefully arranged a menu of beef consommé, sliced green apples, and crackers – items known to help with seasickness – for me when I couldn't make it to dinner.
For Japanese guests, utilizing a butler might be unfamiliar at first. However, they soon become a constant presence, responding to various requests with politeness and respect. Tipping is included in the fare, so there's no need to tip each time. I left a card with a message of thanks upon disembarking.
Acquisition of Galapagos Expedition Ship: Silver Galapagos Debuts
In 2012, Silversea acquired Canodros, an Ecuadorian travel agency specializing in the Galapagos Islands, and its luxury expedition ship, the "Galapagos Explorer II." Renamed Silver Galapagos in October 2012, this acquisition, along with the Silver Explorer, has enabled the company to offer a more comprehensive range of regular cruises to polar regions, including the Galapagos. Furthermore, a 14-day cruise aboard the Silver Explorer following the same route as this article was announced for Golden Week in 2013 (http://www.silversea.com/expeditions/destinations/plan-expedition/?voyage=7309).
Silversea Cruises Japan General Sales Agent
International Cruise Marketing, Inc.
Tel. 03-5405-9213
www.silversea.jp/expeditions/silverexplorer.php
Naoko Terada | TERADA Naoko
Travel journalist. Spends about 150 days a year living in overseas hotels. Has visited around 60 countries, including Australia, Asian resorts, and Europe. Primarily contributes to magazines, weekly publications, and newspapers. Author of "Hotel Brand Stories" (Kadokawa Shoten), "London Gourmet Guide" (Nikkei BP, co-authored), "English Garden Tour" (Nikkei BP Kikaku, co-authored), and producer of "Wagamama Aruki Bali" (Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha).
Award-Winning Article: 13th Prix du Reportage
A Voyage from Bordeaux to Normandy Aboard the Silver Explorer
Feature: Embark on a Luxurious Adventure Aboard an Expedition Ship (2)
Feature: A Wine Tour of Bordeaux
Although Bordeaux is called a port city, looking at a map reveals it is located inland, somewhat away from the sea. So why is it called a port city? It's due to the presence of the Garonne River that flows through the city. The Garonne River connects Bordeaux to the Atlantic Ocean, serving as a waterway. From Bordeaux, it further changes its name to the Garonne and continues to Toulouse in southern France, a hub of the aviation industry. Toulouse is home to the Airbus headquarters, and one can sometimes see aircraft parts manufactured in neighboring countries being transported by ship along the Garonne and Gironde rivers. Because of this environment, Bordeaux reigns as a city that has truly prospered through water transport.
Its benefits are also deeply intertwined with the wine industry. As you know, Bordeaux is a representative wine-producing region of France. It is a land coveted by connoisseurs, boasting first-growth classified wines from the Médoc such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild. These renowned wines, produced in this fertile land, might not have developed to this extent without the trade network provided by waterways.
Spectacular Views Enjoyed from a Maneuverable Small Cruise Ship
The Silver Explorer was docked in front of the Place des Quinconces, the heart of Bordeaux's old town. Taking advantage of the maneuverability of a small cruise ship, the Explorer's true strength lies in its ability to reach places larger ships cannot. From the suites of the ship, facing the beautiful rose-colored buildings, one can enjoy a blissful borrowed scenery that only cruise guests can experience.
The next day, I participated in an excursion to Saint-Émilion, a renowned wine-producing region of Bordeaux. Boarding a bus from in front of the Silver Explorer, I headed for the Saint-Émilion region while receiving explanations from a local English-speaking guide.
The neat beauty of the vineyards undulating as if embracing gentle hills. This town, named after Saint Émilion, a hermit who lived here in the past, possesses high-quality calcareous soil and may well be a promised land created by God for winemaking. With a history of winemaking dating back to Roman times and numerous historical sites, it is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
In the crisp morning air, I strolled through the cobblestone town, visiting the 12th-century monastery and the catacombs (underground burial sites) built within caves. Being a small group of only cruise guests, it was pleasant to find ourselves naturally striking up conversations and getting acquainted. Many guests were from America, including couples and families. The majority were repeat Silversea customers and regulars on the Silver Explorer, captivated by the ship's appeal for its nature-focused activities and intellectually stimulating destinations.
Feature: Taste the Original Simple Flavor in the Birthplace of Macarons
While Saint-Émilion is famous for its wine, it has another specialty. That is macarons. Macarons are popular in Japan, but Saint-Émilion is said to be their birthplace. Originally made by nuns, the shop of Madame Blanche, which has been making them since 1620, is considered the original.
When I visited the place recommended by the guide, I found a small shop nestled between wine stores. The macarons I was looking for were in the display case. Unlike the colorful macarons familiar to Japanese people, these were simple, baked with only almonds, sugar, and egg whites, without any coloring or confiture. Taking one off the paper it was stuck to and tasting it, I found the texture to be slightly moist rather than crisp, with the aroma of baked goods and almonds rising.
Caramel-colored, delicious-looking canelés were also lined up, so I enjoyed one on the spot with a cup of espresso. Since the macarons were not properly packaged, they couldn't be taken as souvenirs to Japan. I bought one box to enjoy during the cruise. The packaging was also simple and cute.
Feature: Visit a Grand Cru Classé Château in Saint-Émilion
The highlight of the excursion was, of course, visiting a winery in Saint-Émilion. The winery chosen for this day was Château Cadet-Piola. It is a classified Grand Cru Classé winery, surrounded by beautiful vineyards. It is a renowned winery that produces wines with a rich concentration and fruitiness, balanced by Merlot 51%, Cabernet Sauvignon 28%, Cabernet Franc 18%, and Malbec 3%.
First, we were given a private tour of the winery. A young male staff member, with surprisingly fluent English, provided an entertaining explanation. When an elderly guest from America complimented him, saying, "Your English is very good," he blushed and looked shy, which was endearing. Despite being a classified château, their friendly service was impressive.
And finally, the tasting. As expected of Silver Explorer guests, they quietly swirled their tasting glasses, slowly sipped the wine, and savored it on their tongues. While the atmosphere was casual, with guests chatting and laughing, the tasting posture of these connoisseurs was dignified. Cruising, where you don't have to move with suitcases, allows you to buy plenty of souvenirs without issue. One gentleman immediately requested several bottles of his favorite wine. Perhaps enjoying a favorite wine in one's own suite while gazing at the sea is a way to savor the Silver Explorer experience.
Silversea Cruises Japan General Sales Agent
International Cruise Marketing, Inc.
Tel. 03-5405-9213
www.silversea.jp/expeditions/silverexplorer.php
Award-Winning Article: 13th Prix du Reportage
A Voyage from Bordeaux to Normandy Aboard the Silver Explorer
Feature: Embark on a Luxurious Adventure Aboard an Expedition Ship (3)
Feature: The Little-Known Charms of Quiberon in Southern Brittany
The day after our stay enjoying Bordeaux's wines, I woke up in my comfortable suite and, after breakfast, the ship slowly anchored offshore. We had arrived at Quiberon, a port town on the west coast of France, or rather, the southern tip of the Brittany Peninsula. We were scheduled to set sail again at 7 PM. Until then, many guests planned to participate in excursions.
After all, the highlight of the day was an excursion to the dramatic Neolithic site of Carnac, which many of the Silver Explorer's guests, with their interest in history and nature, were eagerly anticipating.
This area is familiar to Japanese people because it is a region famous for its high-quality salt. Fleur de sel, a premium salt beloved by chefs worldwide.
Guérande has had salt pans for nearly 1000 years, and even today, artisans continue to produce salt from seawater using traditional methods. Unlike regular salt, Guérande salt has a moist, granular texture because it contains absolutely no anti-caking agents. It is truly a gem that allows you to taste the bounty of the Brittany sea as it is. It's also attractive that it can be purchased at supermarkets for a much more reasonable price than in Japan. I bought several for friends who enjoy cooking.
Feature: Riding Sturdy Zodiacs Instead of Tenders
At 10 AM, we departed for the excursion in Quiberon. If the port is small and cannot accommodate docking, the ship anchors offshore. To get to shore, guests usually board small boats called tenders, but on this day, the Silver Explorer lived up to its name. Instead of the usual tenders, Zodiacs were used.
Zodiacs are robust inflatable boats developed for military use, and the Silver Explorer carries eight of them. They are reliable for transportation in remote areas, even on cruises to the Arctic and Antarctic. It seems the expedition team decided to use the Zodiacs specifically so that guests could experience them, as they were already on board. This kind of thoughtfulness is truly appreciated.
Once ready, guests, wearing their Zodiac life vests, boarded one by one. Although it was only a few minutes' ride, the exhilarating experience brought a blush to the cheeks of some guests. The expedition team assisted with safe boarding, allowing even elderly guests to disembark in the port town of Quiberon without issue.
Feature: A Delicious Visit to Brittany's Famous Oyster Farms
Upon arriving at the port of Quiberon, we were met by a local guide and a bus. We boarded several buses and the excursion began. From the port of Quiberon, we first headed to the coastal town named La Trinité-sur-Mer, adjacent to it. This was to visit and taste oysters, a specialty of Brittany along with salt.
Listening to the guide's explanations, the bus slowly proceeded through the towns of Quiberon and Carnac, popular summer vacation spots. Riding the bus, I was once again struck by the proportion of seats allocated to guests. On affordable, casual cruises, sometimes guests are packed in to fill capacity, but on this day, several buses were arranged to ensure ample space for guests. While I don't mind talking to others as I'm traveling alone for reporting, I prefer to spend my time at my own pace to absorb the foreign scenery outside the window. Not having to worry about someone sitting next to me, I could relax and listen attentively to the guide's talk. This reaffirmed my understanding of Silversea Cruises' commitment to luxury.
After about an hour's bus ride, we arrived at our destination, the oyster farm "Le Perle de Kéramis." Here, oysters farmed in the bay in front of us are sold on-site, and tasting is also available. After being explained the oyster farming methods, we proceeded to taste the oysters piled high at the facility.
The slightly rounded oysters are flat oysters called "Blondes." Although small, they are grown in mineral-rich seawater, concentrating their flavor. Simply squeezing a bit of lemon over them and slurping them down, followed by a dry white wine. They also cultivate "Magaki," the Japanese flat oyster. About 50 years ago, when the "Blondes" suffered mass die-offs due to disease, they successfully cultivated them by introducing seed oysters from Miyagi Prefecture, Japan. As a result, both types of oysters can now be enjoyed. The large platters of oysters were quickly reduced to empty shells. I was impressed by the hearty appetites of the gourmet cruise guests.
Feature: The Mysterious Carnac Megaliths
After leaving the oyster farm, we headed to the day's highlight: the Carnac megaliths. These are megalithic structures built by a community engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry in this region during the Neolithic period (around 5000-3000 BC). Menhirs, meaning "long stones" in the local Breton language, and dolmens, meaning "stone tables" (collective tombs), are scattered here with a quiet yet firm presence.
As we walked from the parking lot towards the site, the Ménec alignments gradually appeared. Stretching for 950 meters, they consist of 1050 stones. What do these stones, arranged at almost equal intervals, signify? The mystery of this artificial arrangement, which seems to blend into the beautiful pastureland, remains unsolved. East of the Ménec alignments, the Kermario alignments spread out, arranged uniformly along gentle hills. Here, dolmens, believed to be collective tombs, have been discovered. Further east are the Kerlescan alignments, consisting of 13 menhirs, which are considered to be in the best state of preservation.
These silent megaliths, transcending nearly 7000 years of unfathomable time, speak to us. Why were they built? Although not yet precisely deciphered, two hypotheses are considered: that the megaliths served as burial grounds and as markers to delineate significant land areas. The Brittany region retains strong traces of ancient Celtic culture. A connection to the megalithic beliefs of Ireland is clearly present here as well. The mysterious sight of the Carnac alignments left a deep impression on my mind.
Silversea Cruises Japan General Sales Agent
International Cruise Marketing, Inc.
Tel. 03-5405-9213
www.silversea.jp/expeditions/silverexplorer.php
Award-Winning Article: 13th Prix du Reportage
A Voyage from Bordeaux to Normandy Aboard the Silver Explorer
Feature: Embark on a Luxurious Adventure Aboard an Expedition Ship (4)
Text & Photographs by TERADA Naoko
Feature: The Ship Sails Towards the World Heritage Site of Mont Saint-Michel
Cruises often include days at sea, where there are no port calls. For example, on a route from Portugal across the North Atlantic to Florida. Are these days without excursions boring? On the contrary, days at sea are an opportunity to fully enjoy the ship's facilities and services.
On this cruise as well, the Silver Explorer set sail from Quiberon in the evening, giving us a leisurely day at sea the following day. As this is a ship for luxury adventures, there are no casinos or large-scale shows. However, it is equipped with facilities for mature adults, such as a relaxation area with a spa, sauna, and steam room, a library stocked with photo books, literature, and DVDs, and a cigar bar. Furthermore, on these days at sea, events like lectures by historians accompanied by wine and more elegant afternoon tea are held to help guests relax.
And the next day, the Silver Explorer docked in Saint-Malo, home to the world-famous Mont Saint-Michel, under the sparkling morning sun.
Feature: Navigating the Crowded Island to Reach the Heavenly Cathedral
In Saint-Malo, guests could choose between two excursions: a full-day tour to explore the interior of Mont Saint-Michel, or a half-day tour that included viewing it from the outside and free time in surrounding towns like Cancale. I, of course, opted for the full-day tour to explore the interior. It had been a while since my last visit to this magnificent World Heritage site. I was very much looking forward to it.
In the spring of 2012, access to Mont Saint-Michel changed significantly for environmental conservation purposes. Cars can no longer drive directly to the island as before; tour buses must stop at a newly constructed parking lot on the opposite shore, and all tourists must take an electric bus to the foot of Mont Saint-Michel. As this is a valuable wetland registered under the Ramsar Convention, further stringent environmental protection policies are expected. With approximately 3 million tourists visiting annually, this is a welcome development.
Despite the changes, Mont Saint-Michel welcomed me with its unchanging beauty after a long absence. Many of the accompanying guests were visiting for the first time and were captivated by the sight, exclaiming "Wow..." Commemorative photos were immediately being taken here and there. This is common across all countries and is one of the most enjoyable moments of travel.
Passing through the imposing stone gate at the entrance, I found a narrow cobblestone lane lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. This lane leads up to the cathedral high in the sky. The most numerous visitors to Mont Saint-Michel are actually Japanese, so it's heartwarming to see "Welcome, Japanese!" sentiments here and there, something that has become less common recently.
There is a post office, and beyond a narrow alleyway next to it, there are houses and small hotels. The island's population is said to be between 30 and 40, including the monastery, but signs of life are only apparent around the entrance. As I slowly climbed the stone steps, reminiscent of the Middle Ages, and the full panorama of Mont Saint-Michel unfolded before me, the surrounding tourists and noise completely faded away.
Feature: When the Archangel Descends in a Moment of Solitude
Mont Saint-Michel was originally a sacred site for Celtic worship. Then, a bishop, who received a dream message from the Archangel Michael (Michel in French) saying, "Build a sanctuary here," created a chapel. In the early 8th century, a Benedictine monastery was established, and in the 13th century, a church, acclaimed as a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, was added, bringing it closer to its current form. It was involved in the Hundred Years' War in the 15th century and was even used as a prison during the French Revolution. Later, it was used as a monastery again and was registered as a World Heritage site in 1979.
Following the guide's explanations, I explored the interior. The complex structure, resulting from successive additions, exhibits different styles from various periods, making it extremely interesting. Putting down my camera, I traced the curves of the soaring vaulted ceilings with my eyes and touched the rough, cold stone walls and pillars. Light filtering through the clouded glass windows illuminated a corner of the dim corridor, connecting past and present. Strangely, there are moments when the many tourists disappear. In that instant, a silence and serenity descend, as if the Archangel Michael himself had alighted. I have seen many churches and cathedrals, but this cathedral, soaring 150 meters above the sea, leaves a quiet resonance and excitement.
Feature: A Casual Stroll Through the Seaside Town of Saint-Malo
The impressive visit to Mont Saint-Michel concluded all too quickly. Although it was a brisk tour, there was also free time, and the satisfaction level was high. The local guide was excellent, skillfully handling guest requests with his extensive knowledge and sound judgment. Afterward, we all returned to the mainland and enjoyed lunch at a popular restaurant with a superb view of Mont Saint-Michel, returning to the ship around 4 PM.
The ship was scheduled to depart at 6 PM. With some time to spare, I decided to explore the area around the port of Saint-Malo, where the Silver Explorer was docked. Saint-Malo has an old town surrounded by 12th-century ramparts. Within these walls are the Saint-Vincent Cathedral, famous for its stained glass and built in the 11th century, and the Historical and Ethnographical Museum.
However, on this day, my intellectual curiosity had been fully satisfied by the magnificent visit to Mont Saint-Michel, so I decided to leisurely enjoy window shopping and observe the charm of the old town and the French lifestyle. The weather was clear and bright, so I first recharged with a lemon ice cream. There were specialty shops selling local oysters and Guérande salt, as well as ordinary supermarkets. Along the way, I popped into a boutique I liked and bought a striped border shirt and a light blue and white striped shirt as souvenirs, fully embracing the marine mood. I would have loved to have a Pernod at a café, but it was almost time for departure. Perhaps someday...—...I thought as I returned to the Silver Explorer.
Back on board, the crew seemed busy with departure preparations, cabin turn-down service, and dinner arrangements. One of the features of the Silver Explorer is its dining style, called open seating. This means you can dine at the restaurant at your preferred time. On casual large cruise ships, dining times and table assignments are often predetermined. However, this is not the case on the Silver Explorer. When you go to the restaurant, they ask, "Miss Terada, would you prefer to share a table today, or dine alone?" You can choose according to your preference. After a few days, guests become acquainted, and sometimes you might be invited to join a table, but the freedom to enjoy your meal alone is also quite pleasant.
Room service also offers an extensive menu, allowing you to enjoy the same dishes as in the restaurant. Of course, it's all included in the fare, so you can order whatever you like. After a day of walking outdoors, I decided to have dinner in my suite. I enjoyed the beautiful sunset from the suite's deck.
Silversea Cruises Japan General Sales Agent
International Cruise Marketing, Inc.
Tel. 03-5405-9213
www.silversea.jp/expeditions/silverexplorer.php
Award-Winning Article: 13th Prix du Reportage
A Voyage from Bordeaux to Normandy Aboard the Silver Explorer
Feature: Embark on a Luxurious Adventure Aboard an Expedition Ship (5)
Text & Photographs by TERADA Naoko
Feature: To Guernsey Island—Feature: A British-Style Day: A Misty Island
Although it was perfectly sunny in Saint-Malo, the next morning, upon arriving at the port of St. Peter Port on the British island of Guernsey in the English Channel, the sky was overcast and a light rain was falling. It was so typically British that I could only offer a wry smile at the weather.
The plan for the morning was to enjoy a cliff walk on Guernsey, followed by a move to the nearby British island of Sark, located offshore. There, we were scheduled for a carriage tour of the island. However, considering the forecast, wind, and wave conditions, the expedition team determined that launching the Zodiacs would be difficult. They explained that there were no ports where the ship could safely dock while avoiding the wind and rain, and the decision was made not to go to Sark.
This kind of on-the-spot, flexible decision-making is characteristic of the Silver Explorer. Although some guests were disappointed, the expedition team's thorough investigation and conclusion, aimed at minimizing guest disappointment while finding the best possible solution, meant that no complaints were heard. The team's sincerity had been fully conveyed to the guests throughout the cruise. The cliff walk on Guernsey was still scheduled to take place, but I didn't find the prospect of walking along the cliffs in the rain particularly appealing, so I decided not to participate. Instead, I opted to explore the island on my own.
Feature: Walking Through an Island Tax Haven
The town center is just a short walk from the port of St. Peter Port. The small houses and the harbor with its white-sailed yachts somehow felt British, perhaps it was just my imagination. I put on the jacket I hadn't worn until now and headed first to the information center. After getting a map there, I started walking into town.
There are familiar department stores like Marks & Spencer, but they are small. When visiting a new place, my first stop is always the supermarket. It gives me an idea of the local prices. I entered a small supermarket along the harbor and checked the prices of bread, milk, and beer. They were not much different from London. What caught my eye was a pack of Guernsey milk with a charming checkered pattern. Yes, this island is also famous for its Guernsey cows, which produce rich dairy products. I wanted to try some somewhere. Normally, people might enjoy ice cream or yogurt, but given the chilly weather today, I couldn't bring myself to do so.
By the way, Guernsey is, as you know, a tax haven island. Many corporations and sole proprietors establish special companies here, utilizing a system that allows for legal tax reduction or exemption. Therefore, it is interesting to see branches of law firms, banks, and insurance companies located throughout the town.
The main street facing the harbor was sparsely populated due to the rain. Even the boutiques and luxury jewelry stores, which should be bustling with shoppers when a cruise ship docks, had few people. Due to its unique status, Guernsey has a system where VAT (Value Added Tax), which is normally applied to purchases within the EU, is completely waived. This means there is an advantage in buying luxury jewelry and watches at lower prices.
Also unique is the currency. The Guernsey pound note, usable only on Guernsey, is the official currency. Its value is equivalent to the British pound. While British pounds can be used on the island, Guernsey pounds cannot be used in mainland Britain.
After the cruise ended, when I arrived at the British port town of Portsmouth and tried to pay for a taxi with Guernsey pounds by mistake, the taxi driver dismissed it, saying, "What's this?" Therefore, it's wise to keep Guernsey pounds as souvenirs.
Feature: In a Seasonal Botanical Garden
After finishing my supermarket survey, I wondered what to do next. I stopped and looked at the map. Suddenly, I remembered that Guernsey was famous for its horticulture. I recalled hearing from a horticulturalist I met in Tasmania, Australia, that they had brought peony seeds from Guernsey. Looking at the map, I saw that the Guernsey Museum & Art Gallery was within walking distance, and there was a botanical garden on its grounds. This was the only place to go. Holding the map, I climbed the hill in the light rain towards the garden.
After climbing the somewhat steep slope, I reached the museum. There were only a few tourists. Most people went inside the warm museum, but I headed straight for the garden. The quiet garden greeted me with the modest blooms of rhododendrons and camellias. The garden, sloping gently towards the harbor, offered a good view, and I could see the Silver Explorer in the distance. I wondered if the guests who went on the cliff walk were enjoying themselves. The garden, wet with rain, felt so lonely that I almost regretted not participating.
Feature: Scones with Cream from Guernsey Milk
After completing my tour of the garden, feeling a bit cold, I retraced my steps to the museum café. The space, which also housed a gift shop, was filled with the pleasant sounds of people and the gentle clinking of cutlery and glasses, warming my spirits. I sat at a table by the window with a good view and looked at the menu. Freshly baked scones with Guernsey cream. It was made with cream from Guernsey milk, which I had wanted to try.
The scones soon arrived, about palm-sized, served with strawberry jam and a generous dollop of clotted cream made from Guernsey cow's milk. Guernsey cream is high in milk fat and protein, with a yellowish hue. It was rich yet melted fresh on the palate, with a smooth taste that paired perfectly with the simple sweetness of the scones. Although Guernsey is an island closer to France than mainland Britain, it is still a British island. Eating scones with cream and jam alongside a strong cup of tea, I truly felt this.
Silversea Cruises Japan General Sales Agent
International Cruise Marketing, Inc.
Tel. 03-5405-9213
www.silversea.jp/expeditions/silverexplorer.php
Award-Winning Article: 13th Prix du Reportage
A Voyage from Bordeaux to Normandy Aboard the Silver Explorer
Feature: Embark on a Luxurious Adventure Aboard an Expedition Ship (6)
Text & Photographs by TERADA Naoko
Feature: The Final Day: To Normandy, the Resting Place of Warriors
Day six of the cruise. The final day had finally arrived. The Silver Explorer would arrive in Portsmouth, England, early the next morning, and we would disembark. And today, an excursion awaited that would likely be the most valuable experience for the cruise guests: a tour of the Normandy coast, the site of the D-Day landings during World War II.
As you know, the Normandy landings are the most famous operation in world history. On June 14, 1940, Paris fell to the German army led by Hitler. To counter this overwhelming invasion, Allied forces from America, Britain, Canada, France, the Netherlands, Australia, and other nations launched a desperate landing operation across the English Channel to open a Western Front. This was the Normandy landings, officially codenamed "Operation Overlord."
On June 6, 1944, the Allied forces divided the 80-kilometer Normandy coastline into five sectors: "Omaha Beach," "Utah Beach," "Juno Beach," "Sword Beach," and "Gold Beach," with each country's forces responsible for their assigned area and commencing the landings. The landings did not immediately involve soldiers advancing inland; the initial phase of the operation was dedicated to constructing breakwaters, supplying ammunition and food, and establishing piers for landing heavy vehicles like tanks and bulldozers.
As a result, on "D-Day," the day the landing operation commenced, commando units from Britain, the United States, Canada, and Free France landed. Subsequently, Allied brigades joined the battle, inflicting devastating damage on the German forces and paving the way for the liberation of France and Europe. Many soldiers lost their lives in this region. Many of the guests on this cruise were from America, and for them, this was also a journey tracing the history of their young countrymen who fought in a foreign land.
Feature: Walking the D-Day Landing Beaches with a Historian
Accompanied by the historian who had been with us throughout the cruise, our bus enjoyed a roughly two-hour drive towards Arromanches, a town on the Normandy coast. The tour group consisted of about seven or eight people, including myself. All the others were elderly gentlemen. The ladies and other cruise guests had opted for the other excursion: a village tour and a visit to the tapestry registered as a World Heritage site. A madame I had become acquainted with asked, "Why are you going on the war tour? Isn't the tapestry prettier?" I replied that since I had come all this way, I wanted to confront the history thoroughly. I wondered if she understood. We were scheduled to rejoin the other tour group for lunch and spend the afternoon together.
Upon arriving at the Normandy coast, we first headed to the cliffs overlooking "Gold Beach," "Juno Beach," and "Sword Beach," which were the stages of the operation. This area is maintained by the ABMC (American Battle Monuments Commission), a government agency that manages 24 cemeteries and 25 monuments located in 15 countries, as well as historical war heritage sites. Numerous tourists, including students, visit for sightseeing.
Although I thought I understood the basics from the lecture on the bus, this greatest operation in history was extremely complex, difficult, and full of unforeseen events. Nevertheless, I was astonished by the historian's extensive knowledge, which goes without saying. He not only knew the names of units and exact times but also explained with great emotion, as if he had witnessed it himself. Hearing it in the very place where the operation took place made it incredibly real. It was entirely different from a mere tourist guide's talk. A nature guide also accompanied us, and if someone occasionally asked, "What kind of bird is that? What about the plant?" he would answer immediately, which was reassuring.
Feature: Arromanches, a Beautiful Seaside Spot
We boarded the bus again and headed to the town of Arromanches, which houses the Landing Museum. The museum displays a large model showing the entirety of the landing operation, black-and-white photographs from the time, supplies, and firearms. The museum is located along the coast, and beyond it, remnants of the artificial harbors used to create "Mulberry harbors," known as "Caisson Phoenix," about 20 of which still exist, are scattered. These structures, lying on a peaceful beach where children play and dogs run, felt surreal yet heavy.
With some time before lunch, I decided to take a break from the museum and stroll along the beachside. Arromanches is a summer resort town, with charming pensions and small resorts lining the coast. Afterward, I rejoined the other excursion group and enjoyed fresh fish and wine with fellow guests at a seaside restaurant, chatting amongst ourselves. It is the Explorer's custom for the expedition team to join guests at their tables. As we would be parting ways the next day, some guests exchanged email addresses. I am grateful to have been blessed with such wonderful fellow guests on this trip.
Feature: The American Cemetery, Where 9,387 Crosses Stand in Silent Rows
Near the end of lunch, a staff member from the expedition team announced, "Everyone, we are now going to our final visit for today. Some of you may have joined this cruise specifically to visit this place: the American Cemetery. Many American soldiers who lost their lives during the operation rest here. We have allocated ample time for you to visit. As this is a very sensitive location, please observe it in silence."
If you search for "Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial" on Google Earth, you will see an overwhelming number of graves arranged in neat rows. This cemetery is the final resting place for 9,387 American soldiers, the majority of whom perished on D-Day. Some were buried here without their identities being known. After laying a wreath and offering prayers at the entrance, we were given about an hour of free time to walk around the grounds. With so many visitors, the atmosphere was not desolate. However, seeing the sheer number of crosses, I was overwhelmed not by sadness, but by a sense of human folly, and I felt a sense of bewilderment, wondering what had become of the lives that these young soldiers, who died so young, might have lived. When taking photographs for this report, I bowed my head to the crosses and quietly pressed the shutter.
As I returned to the bus alone after the visit, I caught sight of the Normandy coastline in the distance. Perhaps it was low tide, but the scenery created by the sandy beach and the water was as peaceful and beautiful as a painting. With this final memory of the cruise etched in my mind, this journey came to an end.
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Naoko Terada | TERADA Naoko
Travel journalist. Spends about 150 days a year living in overseas hotels. Has visited around 60 countries, including Australia, Asian resorts, and Europe. Primarily contributes to magazines, weekly publications, and newspapers. Author of "Hotel Brand Stories" (Kadokawa Shoten), "London Gourmet Guide" (Nikkei BP, co-authored), "English Garden Tour" (Nikkei BP Kikaku, co-authored), and producer of "Wagamama Aruki Bali" (Jitsugyo no Nihon Sha).