New Flavors Emerge Through Different Approaches, Not Changed Philosophy

“When I first came to London in 1994, there were only curry houses. Now, we have highly acclaimed ethnic restaurants like Cinnamon Club, Busaba Eathai, and Nobu. Why has London’s food culture evolved so dramatically? Perhaps it’s because British travelers, with their global experiences, returned home and began recreating the dishes they’d savored abroad. The influence of the Michelin Guide is also significant, I believe. It has elevated the reputation of British cuisine. Of course, receiving a star is a great pleasure.”

Inside Benares, pristine white tablecloths are set with gleaming silverware and wine glasses. Towards the back, a chef’s table seating six offers a view into the kitchen through glass, creating an atmosphere of refined anticipation befitting a top-tier restaurant. The menu boasts dishes with exotic names, captivating the eager palates and appetites of guests. Kochhar’s culinary concept is to present authentic Indian cuisine with a modern twist. The high praise stems from his unwavering commitment to traditional recipes, flavoring them not for British palates, but to faithfully express the essence of the cuisine.



“We call Benares a ‘Modern British Indian Restaurant.’ Above all, we prioritize high-quality ingredients, spices, and flavors. Spices are used not to make dishes spicy, but to enhance the natural taste of the ingredients. Even without altering the fundamental philosophy of a dish, a different approach can create something entirely new. Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa’s ‘soil soup’ at Les Créations de Narisawa in Tokyo is a prime example. I, too, am exploring different approaches to dispel the image of Indian food as merely hot and spicy.”

I sampled the “Lamb Shank with Punjabi Pea Purée and Gold Leaf,” reportedly the restaurant’s most popular dish. The lamb, slow-cooked at low temperature, was so tender it fell off the bone, coated in a deeply flavorful sauce. The robust aroma and tenderness of the lamb gave way to a stimulating flavor reminiscent of the heat of India. This was undoubtedly Indian cuisine, yet imbued with a sophistication befitting royal court fare. Modern yet primal—this exquisite balance is what captivates so many gourmands. Now in its fourth year, Benares is set to reign over London’s dining scene for the foreseeable future, with reservations becoming increasingly difficult to secure.