The Hasegawa Minoru group commands considerable attention, not only from foodies but also from fellow chefs. Currently, at "Hasegawa Minoru Lab." in Nishi-Azabu, known for its experimental endeavors, two restaurants with entirely different names and cuisines are coexisting within a single space, sparking considerable buzz. Both French "amphis" and Italian "Muku" offer tasting menus only, and their reservations are nearly fully booked two months in advance. What is the significance of these two restaurants sharing a space? What are the roles of the four chefs? We explore the answers through this latest iteration of chefs, business formats, and spaces, characteristic of a "Lab."

 

The Reason Four Chefs Stand in One Space

"Since we had extensive experience in French cuisine, we initially envisioned a classic course structure starting with an aperitif, followed by amuse-bouche, appetizers, warm dishes, poisson (fish), viande (meat), and dessert. However, the owner asked, 'Do we really need a course that gradually builds up to the main dish?' This challenged our preconceived notions," says Nakajima.

 

This led to a structure that doesn't consolidate the main dish into one course but rather creates multiple "peaks" throughout. The first main dish, "Wagyu Beef Wellington," is served early on, followed by a second meat dish in the middle, and a choice of three options for the final meal: "Omurice," "Ramen," or "Freshly Baked Quiche." Guests can even opt to try all three if they wish, with chefs engaging in conversation about their appetite, for instance, cutting the "Omurice" to the desired portion.

 

"Ultimately, I believe the reason people return to a restaurant is the presence of memorable dishes that make them think, 'I want to eat that again.' During the period before opening, we brainstormed numerous menu ideas. We had the owner and Chef Minoru Hasegawa taste them, and sometimes received specific advice like, 'Perhaps this would be better.' Through this process, dishes like the 'French Onion Soup,' 'Bouillabaisse Croquette,' and 'Wagyu Beef Wellington,' which were refined from the selected options, were incorporated into the regular menu," says Takahashi.

"Muku": Where Feedback Circulates Between Guests, Kitchen, and Chefs

Tsutsumi, with over 20 years of experience in Italian cuisine and formerly from the popular Nakameguro restaurant "RODEO," known for its wood-fired cooking, and Yamaguchi, who gained experience at the Michelin-starred French restaurant "Simplisite" in Daikanyama, were both at the forefront of their respective culinary fields. "Our course began as an exploration," Tsutsumi recalls.

 

"We spent a year and a half developing the menu without pre-determining classic dishes. Each time, we observed the guests' expressions and reactions to decide whether to keep a dish, and sometimes guests would ask, 'Is it not available anymore?' Our current course was shaped by valuing these daily interactions."

 

 

 

The "Otoro Tartare" using tuna from Yamayuki, which has become a signature dish, and "Atsu Atsu," a buckwheat galette wrapping a Margherita pizza, are followed by five types of pasta as the concluding course, symbolizing the restaurant "Muku."

 

"We worry if our cooking truly reaches the guests when we make the same dishes every day, so we constantly taste each other's food and exchange frank opinions. Having two chefs allows us to feel like we are both fulfilling the roles of 'guest and chef,'" says Yamaguchi.

 

 

Through the circulation of feedback in multiple directions among the guests, the kitchen, and the two chefs, the cuisine at "Muku" has been gradually refined. With a flexible approach and a constant return to a "pristine state," it achieves relentless evolution.

 

 

Sommelier Tokunori Kaneko is in charge of the wine for both restaurants. All wines previously consumed by guests are recorded in their customer information to inform future recommendations. However, the fundamental principle is pairing that respects the unique dishes of "amphis" and "Muku."

 

 

"For dishes with complex flavors, such as the beef fillet with asparagus and Japanese black beef tongue, we selected a wine that is both gentle and refined. For the robust flavor and texture of the 'Gin no Kamo' duck, a wine with fruitiness and concentration pairs wonderfully," says Kaneko.

 

The wine pairings, which extend beyond French and Italian cuisine to include wines from around the world, are another charm of this establishment.