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June 17, 2015
The Ultimate Vegetable Sweets "Esprit Salé" by La Maison du Chocolat | INTERVIEW
INTERVIEW | Exquisite Vegetable Sweets Featuring Porcini Mushrooms and Onions
Nicolas Cloiseau Pioneers a New Frontier in Chocolate (Part 1)
Robert Linxe, founder of "La Maison du Chocolat," was hailed as the "magician of ganache." His original and delicate chocolates, such as "Zagora," a flavored ganache that perfectly captured the essence of fresh mint, captivated people not only in France but around the world. Carrying on that legacy is Nicolas Cloiseau, who became Chef Pâtissier Chocolatier in 2012. This summer, his new collection, "Esprit Salé," embodies the Maison's pioneering spirit by combining vegetables and chocolate. We sat down with Cloiseau to explore the inspiration behind his creations.
Interview & Text by Junko Tanaka (OPENERS)
Vegetable Magic That Expands the Possibilities of Chocolate
"I've always been interested in vegetables. My first 'vegetable sweets' were probably the 'chocolate appetizers' I created for the M.O.F. (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) competition in 2005. I used paprika and fennel back then."
In Nicolas Cloiseau's dream garden, chocolate was always present. Perhaps this stemmed from a desire to express chocolate not as a dessert, but as a dish in itself. However, when people think of chocolate and vegetables, they often imagine an unlikely pairing.
To fulfill his long-held dream, Cloiseau pondered, "How can I create flavors that truly expand the possibilities of chocolate?" This led to the inspiration of infusing chocolate with seasonal flavors at will. Because chocolate is not bound by the season, it can effortlessly embody the tastes of summer or autumn, provided the ingredients are of high quality.
Nicolas Cloiseau
Cloiseau masterfully drew out the mellow sweetness of paprika, the rich aroma of porcini mushrooms, and the subtle sweetness of onions, creating a world woven from diverse flavors. Furthermore, the interplay of salt accents, disruptive notes, varying flavor intensities, and the judicious use of dark and milk chocolate resulted in an even richer chocolate experience.
"Previous recipes wouldn't work, so I changed my approach slightly. I 'cooked' the chocolate. I employed several techniques for this collection: infusing onions to extract their aroma, steeping balsamic vinegar with figs and olive oil with olives to impart flavor, rehydrating dried porcini mushrooms, and reducing pureed paprika to concentrate its essence. Techniques like maceration (infusing to add flavor) and rehydrating dried ingredients are common in cooking, but this was a completely new experience for me."
The resulting "Esprit Salé" course menu comprises five distinct creations. "Ganache Poivron Rouge," a dark ganache with a flavor profile that bridges fruit and vegetable, highlights the mellow umami of stewed red bell peppers. "Praliné Noisette aux Cèpes" offers a sublime harmony between the earthy aroma of porcini mushrooms and a hazelnut praline as smooth as butter.
"Ganache Oignon Caramélisé" combines the sweet and tangy notes of onion with figs caramelized in balsamic vinegar. "Praliné Olive Noir" begins with the elegant notes of olive oil and concludes with a rich praline of finely chopped black olives and nuts. The sole offering from the sea is "Ganache Sel de Guérande," where the lingering finish of Guérande salt elegantly envelops the robust aroma of cacao.
Cloiseau Travels Across France to Source the Finest Ingredients
INTERVIEW | Exquisite Vegetable Sweets Featuring Porcini Mushrooms and Onions
Nicolas Cloiseau Pioneers a New Frontier in Chocolate (Part 2)
Cloiseau Travels Across France to Source the Finest Ingredients
"The most challenging recipe was 'Praliné Noisette aux Cèpes.' Typically, praline is made without water, but here I had to rehydrate dried porcini mushrooms. I researched the amount of butter needed (including the water content) to rehydrate the mushrooms without compromising the fondant (smooth cream) of the praline."
What makes "Esprit Salé" so fresh is its innovative use of ingredients that overturn conventional notions of "vegetable sweets." Even more astonishing is how, with just a tiny bite of the 4-gram chocolate, the distinct character—the aroma and flavor—of each ingredient floods the palate. Vegetables with a "strength" that rivals that of cacao emerge.
"The 'Salé' in 'Esprit Salé' means 'salty.' As I explored various flavor combinations, I found the idea of savory, salty chocolate incredibly appealing. I experimented with over 20 different vegetables until I found the perfect balance."
"I realized then that some vegetables don't enhance the chocolate's flavor. Carrots, for instance. Garlic overwhelms the chocolate's taste, and beetroot has an earthy flavor. My initial challenge was to find vegetables that could complement the chocolate without distorting its flavor."
Cloiseau traveled throughout France to procure the finest ingredients. Onions came from Northern France. He ventured to the Landes region in the southwest for sweet bell peppers and Espelette peppers. The porcini mushrooms were sourced from the Lot region in central France; he specifically chose young mushrooms harvested early for their hazelnut-like aroma. The black olives and olive oil were the Berruguete variety from Provence in the South of France. He waited until late November or December, after the harvest, to ensure the olives were perfectly ripe and possessed their characteristic almond-like fragrance.
The salt used in all the recipes was Guérande salt from the Atlantic, known for its clear, elegant notes. For those who rediscovered the charm of vegetables through "Esprit Salé," perhaps Cloiseau's selection criteria will offer some inspiration.
"For the porcini mushrooms and olives, ripeness was the most crucial factor. Of course, the ideal stage varies depending on the ingredient. For this collection, I chose young porcini mushrooms harvested early for their desired aroma, and fully ripened olives. With bell peppers and onions, I struggled to find varieties with distinct characteristics that wouldn't be lost when paired with chocolate."
Finally, I posed a slightly mischievous question: If you had to choose just one favorite from the five "Esprit Salé" creations, which would it be?
"My absolute favorite is 'Praliné Noisette aux Cèpes' for its unique woody aroma. But the distinctive sweet and sour taste of 'Ganache Oignon Caramélisé' is also hard to resist. Hmm, choosing just one is difficult! (laughs)"
Esprit Salé
Price: ¥3,780 for 15 pieces
Flavors: Five recipes combining chocolate and vegetables (Ganache Poivron Rouge, Praliné Noisette aux Cèpes, Ganache Sel de Guérande, Ganache Oignon Caramélisé, Praliné Olive Noir)
Stores: Marunouchi, Aoyama, Matsuya Ginza, Roppongi Hills, Hankyu Umeda, Online Boutique
La Maison du Chocolat Marunouchi
Tel. 03-3201-6006
http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.co.jp