ART│'Edward Steichen: Light and Shadow of the Modern Age 1923-1937' Photography Exhibition
ART│Masterworks by the Maestro Who Elevated Fashion Photography to Art
『Edward Steichen: Light and Shadow of the Modern Age, 1923-1937』
Edward Steichen (1879-1973) was a master photographer who relentlessly pursued the possibilities of his medium for nearly 70 years. The exhibition 『Edward Steichen: Light and Shadow of the Modern Age, 1923-1937』, featuring approximately 200 works from the 1920s and 30s when he revolutionized the commercial photography world, is currently on display at the Setagaya Art Museum until Sunday, April 7.
Text by YANAKA Tomomi
Portraits of Icons Like Greta Garbo and Gershwin, Plus Rare Documents
The exhibition 『Edward Steichen: Light and Shadow of the Modern Age, 1923-1937』, which began its global tour in 2007 at the Jeu de Paume in Paris, garnered significant attention for its modernist photographic vision. Now, in the year marking the 40th anniversary of Steichen's passing, it has finally arrived in Japan.
Edward Steichen, who grew up in America, was based in Paris in his twenties, where he gained acclaim for his portraits of artists like Rodin. Concurrently, he maintained a studio in New York, working as a portrait photographer. The outbreak of World War I in 1914 led to his return to the U.S., where he enlisted in the army and pioneered aerial photography.
After World War I, he retreated to his home in the Parisian suburbs, focusing on still lifes of tableware and plants with geometric compositions. However, in 1923, he made a decisive shift to become a commercial photographer. Until his retirement from commercial work in 1937, he captured fashion and portraits for the high-fashion magazine Vogue and the general interest magazine Vanity Fair. He later served as the Director of Photography at MoMA (The Museum of Modern Art) in New York, continuing his influential career until his retirement at the age of 82. He was a pioneer who established fashion photography as an art form.
This exhibition showcases photographs taken between 1923 and 1937. Within the venue, alongside the anecdote of Steichen persuading the editor, who was hesitant to feature nudes in Vogue, by saying, "Let's make Vogue the Louvre," the exhibition highlights his skillful navigation of the boundary between art and commerce through images of his muse, model Marion Morehouse, and others. Numerous masterpieces capturing the exquisite fashion of top designers like Chanel, Lanvin, and Schiaparelli are also on display.
The exhibition also features portraits of icons of the era, such as actress Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, and composer George Gershwin, taken by Steichen for Vanity Fair during his early career as a master portraitist. Original prints with raw printing instructions are also presented, alongside the magazines in which they were published, offering a glimpse into the dramatic evolution of not only photography but also overall magazine layout during this period.
If the prosperous 1920s following World War I represented the "light" in American society, then the 1930s, marked by the Great Depression and economic downturn, were the "shadow." Throughout these contrasting times, Steichen consistently captured the beauty of people and the glamour of their lives. His golden-age photographs, imbued with a striking beauty and modernity, continue to captivate viewers across the passage of time.
『Edward Steichen: Light and Shadow of the Modern Age, 1923-1937』
Dates│January 26 (Sat) - April 7 (Sun) *Closed on Mondays
Hours│10:00 - 18:00 (Last admission at 17:30)
Venue│Setagaya Art Museum
1-2 Kinutadaira Park, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3415-6011
Admission│Adults ¥1000, Seniors (65+) / University & High School Students ¥800, Elementary & Junior High School Students ¥500

