Lounge
March 18, 2015
Peter Barakan and Kaori Nakano Discuss "21st Century Dandyism" (Part 1)
Commemorating the Publication of Kaori Nakano's "The Genealogy of Dandyism: Men Admired by Men"
A Conversation with Peter Barakan on 21st Century Dandyism (Part 1 of 4)
Part 1: Is "Dandyism Studies" a Uniquely Japanese Phenomenon?
In the preface to my book, "The Genealogy of Dandyism: Men Admired by Men" (Shinchosha Bunko), I referenced an NHK program featuring Peter Barakan to introduce how dandyism is perceived in contemporary Japan.
I had always wondered what sense of dandyism a British person like Barakan might have, and this conversation finally made it possible to ask him.
Our discussion ranged far beyond the narrow definition of dandyism, exploring the differences in perceptions of dandyism between Japan and the UK, contemporary British class consciousness, the differences between Japanese and British media, and what constitutes a cool man in the 21st century. It was a truly enjoyable conversation.
Text by Kaori NakanoPhoto by JamandfixWith the cooperation of Les Comptoirs de la Tour d'Argent
A Dandy: A Cool Male Image Connected to Oneself!?
Kaori NakanoThank you so much for taking time out of your busy schedule to discuss dandyism with me today. In the preface of my book, I mentioned the NHK program from last year ("Tonight, We Decide!? The World's Dandies," hosted by Eiji Okuda, with panelists Peter Barakan, Genichiro Takahashi, Shigeru Kashima, Shiro Sano, and Sunghak Kang), and I was eager to hear more from you, Peter Barakan, as a British perspective.
Peter BarakanActually, I almost turned down that program offer (laughs).
NakanoIt was a very engaging and enjoyable educational program.
BarakanBut you fell asleep halfway through, didn't you? (laughs)
Nakano...I apologize. It was just so long.
BarakanThe broadcast was three hours, but the filming took about three times as long. It was too long. I suspect most viewers couldn't keep up for that duration.
NakanoWas there a common definition of the word "dandy" established in the end?
BarakanNo. There wasn't. We were mostly talking past each other. Everyone had such extensive knowledge that I just listened silently.
NakanoUltimately, it turned into a discussion about each person's ideal of a "cool man," rather than about dandyism itself.
Peter Barakan
BarakanWhen it came to literature, they discussed authors I didn't know, and the actors chosen by Shiro Sano were unfamiliar to me. It really struck me how deeply each of them had cultivated their own worlds.
NakanoBut you also have your own world when it comes to music, Peter Barakan. You introduced musicians that everyone knows, which felt very accessible.
BarakanPerhaps I was closest to the general audience's perspective.
NakanoThe conversation gradually became more specialized.
BarakanI doubt any general viewers could follow the discussion about Said at the end (laughs).
NakanoOrientalism, identity... The conversation about dandyism evolved into profound discussions of political philosophy.
BarakanI had narrated a documentary about Said before, so I had a general understanding, but I'd never read his books. I was more aligned with Miles Davis.
NakanoThe viewers were probably thinking, "That's not my definition of a dandy." I heard from a knowledgeable and witty professor who, after reading my book, exclaimed, "Why isn't my name in it? I'm the ultimate dandy!" (laughs).
I felt that men want discussions that connect to themselves. They want to imbue the word "dandy" with an image of a cool man they can aspire to.
BarakanMen certainly have a self-indulgent side.
The "Way of the Dandy" is a Uniquely Japanese Phenomenon
BarakanKaori Nakano, where does the word "dandy" originally come from?
NakanoIt has been used since the late 18th century, but its etymology is unknown. Beau Brummell himself was not called a dandy by his contemporary biographers; they referred to him as "beau" or "buck." In that era, "dandy" seemed to carry a sense of disdain.
BarakanThere was also the word "fop," similar to "dandy."
NakanoIt meant something like "a dandy" or "a fop," but with a lighter connotation.
BarakanBoth are rather light (laughs).
NakanoAmidst various terms for stylish men, it's fascinating and peculiar that only "dandy" has survived and evolved into a form of male lifestyle. Many men feel strongly that one shouldn't speak lightly of dandyism, arguing that true dandyism involves risking one's life for something...
BarakanSo it's a uniquely Japanese phenomenon? Have you discussed this with British people before?
NakanoToday is the first time (laughs). When Japanese people start talking about dandies, they tend to relate it to themselves and begin discussing their own ideals of admired lifestyles, even extending to bullfighters or Christ (laughs). In that NHK program, Professor Kang brought up Orientalism and identity, and Professor Kashima discussed the aesthetics of "conspicuous consumption" and resisting reproduction. My impression is that everyone entrusts their own aesthetics to the concept of dandyism and goes off into their own worlds, making it difficult to bring the discussion back together. That's the world of Japanese dandyism.
BarakanSpeaking of which, why didn't Oscar Wilde appear on the program? In a way, he's the ultimate dandy.
NakanoPerhaps because he's from the 19th century? The program was billed as "20th Century Dandies." It's remarkable that dandyism, which originated in the 19th century, is being judged by 20th-century standards. I feel it will continue to be discussed in the 21st century as an expression of a cool way of life.
BarakanIn Japan, yes (laughs).
Kaori Nakano
NakanoYes, in Japan (laughs). In Japan, it's almost considered a "Way," on par with Bushido.
BarakanJapanese people do love that. Many people in this country feel compelled to master a pursuit once they take it up as a hobby.
Does "Dandyism" Exist as an English Word?
NakanoHow is dandyism interpreted in the UK today?
BarakanI suspect most ordinary British people think, "That's a thing of the past, isn't it?" I did some research for the program, but "dandy" doesn't yield many results. In recent times, it's mostly found on rather niche gay websites.
NakanoIt does appear in historical contexts, of course.
BarakanRight, but does "dandyism" exist as an English word?
NakanoTechnically, yes (laughs).
BarakanI've never heard it (laughs). I thought it was French. The French are a nation that likes to rationalize everything... I've never heard it used in English.
NakanoIt certainly spread via French, but it first appeared in the Oxford English Dictionary in 1819. However, even then, what was called dandyism likely carried a mocking tone. It was a type of pseudo-ism, like "Bordeaux wine supremacy," infused with ridicule and parody.
BarakanFigures like Baudelaire in France elevated it, giving it a somewhat more serious ideological weight.
NakanoPerhaps only in Japan is it accepted without any critical spirit. Japanese people truly love to talk about dandyism.
BarakanPerhaps the fact that Jirō Shirasu is discussed so much is an example of this. Japanese people might be fonder of dandyism than the British. I have that feeling.
A Conversation with Peter Barakan on 21st Century Dandyism (Part 1 of 4)
Part 2: Contemporary British Class Consciousness - "When the British Speak, Someone Will Dislike It"To be continued
Part 2: Contemporary British Class Consciousness - "When the British Speak, Someone Will Dislike It"To be continued
Related Articles | Kaori Nakano Profile | Fragrance Dojo
Signed Book Giveaway from Author Kaori Nakano!
We are giving away one signed copy of "The Genealogy of Dandyism: Men Admired by Men" by author Kaori Nakano.
If you would like to enter, please write your thoughts on this conversation with Peter Barakan and apply via the form below.
The winner will be contacted directly.
Applications are now closed.
Thank you for your many applications.
Peter Barakan's Soundtrack of My Youth
(Record Collector's Special Edition)
Music Magazine / 1600 yen
The good fortune of spending one's youth in 1960s London...
The thrill of seeing The Beatles at my first concert, the shock of hearing a then-unknown Jimi Hendrix live...
This book recounts the intense experiences unique to London in the 1960s and early 1970s, and the formative years through which my love and understanding of music deepened.
This is a compilation of the series "Once Upon A Time In England ~ Peter Barakan Recounts His Teenage Musical Experiences" (2005-2008) from "Record Collector's." It includes a color frontispiece featuring precious items like concert programs and tickets from the era, along with a guide to his favorite records!
http://peterbarakan.cocolog-nifty.com/blog/
With the cooperation of
Les Comptoirs de la Tour d'Argent
Tel. 03-5428-4591
http://www.latourdargent.co.jp/daikanyama/