The runway, a battlefield where designers, after half a year of struggle and agony, present their creations to an audience of fewer than 500 journalists and buyers from around the world. It is a stage for a world premiere, yet also a place of cruel judgment and blissful moments. While feeling fortunate to witness this spectacle, my desire to understand the behind-the-scenes reality, their true selves, grows with each passing season.
This time, I visited the backstage, their workspaces, after the collections and exhibitions, to reflect on what I observed.

The Minimalist Space Where "Giuliano Fujiwara" Was Born

A few days after the Milan Collection show concluded, I visited the Giuliano Fujiwara design office. I already knew Masahiro Matsumura, the designer, from our meals together in Tokyo, so we were quite familiar. As he's still in his twenties, I tend to treat him like a junior, or even a younger brother (laughs). He has a sincere attitude of wanting to learn from everything, and he's so naturally himself that it's easy to feel that way. People like him make me want to help them out in various ways. His design office reflects his personality: functional and unadorned, like a factory.
He himself spends most of his day here, and the natural light streaming through the dome-shaped skylight, combined with the ambient music, created a comfortable atmosphere.

Perhaps because of the high ceilings, conversations with the staff around the large table had a pleasant resonance, like talking in a museum cafe. It was a wonderful office where one could lose track of time and concentrate on creation. I realized that minimalist clothing is indeed born in places like this.

Afterwards, I took Matsumura-kun, who tends to be a homebody in Milan, to the Japanese restaurant 'Yoshi,' owned by a friend. We had a great time with Mr. Henmi, the third-generation owner. From there, we went to a bar where Tyler Brûlé, the editor-in-chief of the highly respected magazine 'MONOCLE' (the founder of Wallpaper!), Take-chan from the editorial team, Sakata-kun from Men's Bigi, and stylist Ozawa-kun were gathered, and we continued to have a blast until late into the night!
And so, Matsumura-kun and I shared a deep, profound night.

Matsumura-kun is checking something on his PC. Though he appeared shy during the collection finale, he's quite passionate when you talk to him. He mentioned that in the future, he wants to design not just fashion, but furniture and music, designing life in its entirety.

Etro's Palace: A Surprise Treasure Box

During the Milan Collection, I always make a point to visit Kean's workplace, the Etro headquarters, for meals and tea.
This time, as Etro's show was on the final day of Milan Fashion Week and overlapped with the exhibition, the schedule was quite tight. But Kean, my good friend, managed to arrange time for lunch at the company cafeteria. As usual, we talked about everything but fashion, discussing recent paintings and music. However, when I mentioned the new magazine 'ENZO' that I'm working on, set to launch next year, Kean put his arm around my shoulder and said with conviction, "We are comrades, Aki. Comrades who will change the world. I believe in my talent, and I believe in yours. So, Aki, believe in yourself. Believe in your talent." I was deeply moved.

Then, as if pulling me along (laughs), Kean gave me a tour of his design studio.
It was like a sunroom, with natural light pouring in. The walls were layered with swatches and design sketches for the upcoming fall/winter season. Just the day before, the 09 Spring/Summer collection had ended, and they were already preparing for the next season, giving me a glimpse into the never-ending fashion war. The casually stacked fabric samples had an artistic, almost relaxed feel.
It felt more like a giant artist's atelier than a fashion studio. Looking at the piles of swatches, Kean said, "Yes, this is our art. Our art is born from enjoying ourselves and exchanging ideas. That's why at Etro, we handle everything in-house – from the show's music and direction to the advertising visuals. Most companies outsource, so a company like ours is rare. That's why teamwork is so important – teamwork that involves enjoying work and life!"

Every time I visit the Etro office, I find myself wanting to linger because, for me, it's the most relaxing place.
It's because it's a place filled with the familial love of Kean and all his staff.

Kean guided me through the labyrinthine Etro headquarters as if he were swimming.
The desk, with swatches spread out, might look messy, but Kean knew exactly where everything was. His memory is exceptional!

The "Professor's" (?) Room at Bell & Ross, Where Ideas Scatter

After Milan, I moved to Paris and visited the Bell & Ross headquarters on Rue Saint-Honoré for the first time in a year.
It was almost 6 PM, so the staff were heading home, but my friend Bruno Belamich was waiting for me (laughs). As expected of Bruno, after knowing him for about ten years, he knows I feel more comfortable in his cluttered room than in a neat showroom, so he immediately said, "Shall we talk in my room?" (laughs).

His room was a perfect representation of the ideas swirling in his head: military helmets, instruments, reference books and photo collections on military, design, and architecture spilled from the bookshelves and were scattered everywhere. He'd casually pull something out from between stacks of books and say, "Ah, this. It's the prototype for the next watch. What do you think, Aki?" (laughs). This casual approach was typical Bruno.

He develops ideas for new watches here, and his space could be described as a university professor's study or a toy room. Things from all sorts of places emerged, making him seem like a fantastical magician (laughs). It made perfect sense that such innovative watches would come from such an unpredictable place.

Bruno working at his PC looks like an intellectual university professor?
Motohiro Kogi-kun from Liquor, Woman & Tears, who accompanied me, found a hat on a shelf and asked for it as a souvenir, which Bruno generously gave him. Bruno is always quite generous.

The Loewe Showroom, Filled with Smiles

My approximately two-week trip to Europe concluded in Madrid, Spain.
My objective was a meeting with the product designer of Loewe, a leading Spanish brand. More importantly, it was my first visit to Spain. I decided to go in with no prior information, wanting to experience Spain with a neutral perspective. To my surprise, I was incredibly impressed! First, the people are kind. From the airport staff to the hotel employees, everyone I met greeted me with "Hola!" in a somewhat pastoral manner. It had a simple charm that Paris and Milan lacked.
The food was also exceptionally delicious! Ms. Hiratsuka from Loewe arranged for me to have a meal with a local coordinator, Ms. Moriya, and everything was incredibly tasty! The flavors had a distinct sun-kissed quality; whether it was meat or vegetables, they asserted their presence assertively. It was magnificent.

After such a delightful lunch, I visited the Loewe headquarters, where Pepe, the product designer, welcomed me with a smile. We had our meeting in the showroom, and he said, "I prefer discussing things like this with everyone over working alone (laughs)," showing a very open attitude. Perhaps this is also the Spanish way – designers and PR staff crossing boundaries, exchanging opinions. I found myself spending a very relaxed time together with them.

The previous day was a momentous occasion as Spain had won the European Cup. Perhaps because of that, the city had a slightly tired atmosphere, but that relaxed mood perfectly matched my own slightly weary state (laughs).

Was the lively discussion, regardless of hierarchy, a characteristic of Spain or the company culture at Loewe? I deeply felt that teamwork is crucial in both soccer and fashion.

Encounters on the Road Continue to Inspire Ideas

This trip has truly been incredibly rewarding for me.
The experience and wisdom gained not just from seeing shows and exhibitions, but from going behind the scenes and speaking directly with the people involved.

Conversations late into the night with Tyler Brûlé of 'MONOCLE,' an editor I admire.
The interesting aspects of being an editor, as shared by Kazuhiro Saito of 'VOGUE' during a break between shows.
The many words of encouragement Kean Etro offered me.

These encounters and words have undoubtedly borne fruit within me.
That there is no job more interesting than that of an editor.
And that it is important to believe in my own talent and create magazines.

As I've already introduced in OPENERS, I will be overseeing the launch of a magazine on March 10, 2009.
The new magazine is called 'ENZO'.
The concept is "NO SENSE, NO SUCCESS."

By improving one's sense, one can find happiness and achieve success in various situations and worlds.
I aim to create a magazine that clearly and carefully contributes to improving such a sense, directly linked to happiness.

In any case, the encounters during this trip have ultimately encouraged me.
It was a journey that reaffirmed the joy of being an editor. It was also a trip that gave me even more strength for the new magazine.
I am simply filled with gratitude for everyone I met.
And I sincerely hope to repay this kindness through 'ENZO'.

This is the tabloid version of the new magazine 'ENZO.' It was created as a special issue for advertising agencies and clients. The concept was inspired by the "Warhol vs. Basquiat confrontation" and is a "EWAN vs. Girolamo confrontation."
My message is that men must fight!