The Rise of Innovative Young Designers

While the collections in New York, London, Milan, and Paris each possess their own distinct character, Paris is particularly exciting right now. Alongside luxury brands evolving with a deep respect for heritage, built upon haute couture, a succession of young brands with a street sensibility are making their debut. This period echoes the emergence of Antwerp designers like Margiela and Dries Van Noten in the 1990s. Even with a street sensibility, these are modern garments with a twist, rooted in tailoring and enhanced with artisanal techniques, deconstructing conventional design.


A leading figure in this movement is Christelle Kocher, designer of KOCHE. She aims to make couture-inspired clothing accessible to everyone, not just celebrities. For this season, the show was held in an Art Deco theater in the 9th arrondissement. Upon entering the theater, clutching a turquoise invitation, I was met with a kitschy interior of gold columns, turquoise walls, and pink candles. Models emerged from the central staircase. They wore oversized rugby shirts paired with satin frill skirts, pink tights, and rhinestone-encrusted shoes. Other looks included diagonally paneled dresses and tops with shirring, paired with wide-leg pants—designs that felt both novel and familiar. Velour coat suits and parkas offered a fresh take. The collection managed to be both deconstructed and elegant.

Y/PROJECT was a finalist in the 2016 LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. The designer is Glenn Martens. Denim peeks out from deep slits in voluminous robes. Draped dresses with piping create undulating lines. He is a designer to watch with great anticipation.

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