Born amidst the silver accessory boom of the late 90s and early 00s, "JAM HOME MADE" has continuously evolved with a unique approach. Now, as the brand marks a quarter-century since its establishment in 1998, we sat down with Mr. Masui, one of its designers and founders, to discuss its journey and current standing.

JAM HOME MADE debuted in 1999 with an installation featuring accessories bottled and displayed in a refrigerated showcase. This presentation carried a message contrasting with items that quickly become outdated and consumed by trends. The debut work, with its conceptual art-like, novel presentation, sent shockwaves through the silver accessory industry, which was then dominated by rugged, biker-inspired designs.

MasuiThe brand name comes from the idea of a music jam session, and we used jam jars for our debut collection, playing on the brand name, of course. We presented it at the 'Kaihoku' space in Shinjuku Isetan, and looking back, 'Attachment' (founded 1999) was also exhibiting at the same time.

The silver accessory boom coincided with a period that saw the emergence of numerous independent men's brands. JAM (hereinafter referred to as JAM for brevity) was also responsible for the collection accessories of 'Number (N)ine' (founded 1996), a brand still spoken of in legendary terms. While this fact wasn't officially publicized at the time, it was widely known within the fashion industry and became a catalyst for JAM's growing recognition.

MasuiMany fashion brands that were just starting out back then couldn't handle their own accessory production, so we received offers from numerous brands. Recalling some of the famous names, working with esteemed brands like Number (N)ine, 'A Bathing Ape,' 'Miharayasuhiro,' and 'Zucca' has become a significant asset for the brand.

JAM, which had become a regular fixture in men's fashion magazines, secured its definitive position with the "XXX" (Triple X) collection released in 2001. The items, heavily featuring studs and leather inspired by the American hardcore punk movement, garnered enthusiastic support not only from fashion enthusiasts but also from music lovers.

MasuiWe released the XXX collection several times, and the safety pin motif was born during that period, which we continue to develop today. In our latest collection, we've created new safety pins, and also a new piece inspired by the Victor chain Johnny Rotten wore on his waist. This was also a tribute following the news of Jamie Reid's passing (who did the artwork for the Sex Pistols). Music undoubtedly provides significant inspiration for our designs.

The safety pin, symbolizing the punk DIY spirit of doing things yourself rather than relying on others, has since been developed through various approaches as one of JAM's signature motifs. For its first directly managed store, JAM commissioned sound artist Carsten Nicolai, known as Alva Noto, and in recent years, has presented artwork by Joy Division as three-dimensional silver pieces. Homages to music culture remain an indispensable element in Mr. Masui's designs.

MasuiFor our 25th anniversary, we've collaborated with Carsten Nicolai again. I always try to attend his performances when he visits Japan, and it's deeply moving to see him grow into such a significant figure since our collaboration began. We've also worked with several Japanese musicians, with recent collaborations with Ichiro Yamaguchi of Sakanaction and Sho Okamoto of Okamoto's being particularly memorable.

JAM has enjoyed remarkable success since its debut, but looking back over 25 years, Mr. Masui notes that the period around 2011, the year of the Great East Japan Earthquake, marked a significant turning point for the brand.

MasuiThis is because I felt a change in customers' awareness and values regarding jewelry and accessories. Around this time, more customers started showing us their smartphone screens and asking, 'Do you have this?' With the major shift towards digitalization, we recognized the need to strengthen our e-commerce. Consequently, we deliberately reduced our directly managed stores from seven before the earthquake to just one in Sendagaya, focusing our efforts on e-commerce.

At a time when in-person sales were still paramount for jewelry brands, JAM's early adoption of e-commerce can be seen as prescient. What exactly did the shift in customer values mean, alongside the change in purchasing methods from analog to digital?

MasuiWe also started the 'Nameless Ring' workshop in 2011. In this workshop, customers would take an oval brass ring and shape it into a perfect circle by hammering it themselves. For couples, they could choose brass, silver, or stainless steel, and later remake it into platinum or gold for a significant anniversary or wedding, creating a unique ring engraved with their names. This concept resonated strongly, attracting a particularly young clientele. We believe they valued the experience of creating a ring together with their partner, rather than simply choosing a brand. This was also around the time when the term 'fromモノ消費 (mono-shouhi - consuming things) toコト消費 (koto-shouhi - consuming experiences)' began to be heard.

While the 'Nameless Ring' was actually commercialized in 2014 and received the Good Design Award in 2016, becoming a staple bridal product from its launch to the present, JAM continues to collaborate with highly regarded fashion brands. These collaborations form a significant pillar supporting JAM's popularity.

A previous collaboration with CA4LA featured knit caps and hats with integrated wigs. The designs allowed wearers to transform into Anthony Kiedis of Red Hot Chili Peppers or Alex, the protagonist of 'A Clockwork Orange,' simply by putting them on, with a clever pun on 'kashira' (headwear) and 'katsura' (wig). This collaboration with CA4LA, full of humor, continues this season.

MasuiFor our 25th anniversary season, we've created a bowler hat with a Metatron's Cube pattern in collaboration with CA4LA. Metatron's Cube, also known as sacred geometry, is said to represent the order of the universe and the origin of life. It's believed to have mystical powers, such as accelerating plant growth or preventing water from spoiling when a plant is placed at its center. By placing the Metatron's Cube on the underside of the hat's crown, we recommend it for men experiencing thinning hair. Incidentally, ever since I started carrying Metatron's Cube in my wallet, my money mysteriously hasn't decreased. Of course, this is purely mystical, and I can't guarantee actual results (laughs).

Whether serious or joking, or perhaps both, many of JAM's meticulously conceived products originate from puns and wordplay. In the latest collection, items playfully combine diamonds with train timetables ('dia') and teacups with the phrase 'Do you know me?', showcasing the brand's signature humor.

MasuiThe theme for this season, 'FLIPSIDE,' refers to the B-side of a record or the underside of a skateboard deck, signifying the reverse or opposite side. We've created rings that don't contain diamonds, and rings featuring kanji characters with the radical '心' (heart) instead of the fish radical '魚' found in words related to sushi. We also designed safety pins that are not safe. These ideas have been in stock for a long time and are brought out according to the theme. When we actually create samples, sometimes the staff objects, telling us to stop, but after some time, they often agree that it's interesting and approve it for production (laughs).

At first glance, it appears to be a simple ring, but the new 'Medicine Ring' features an 'X' mark on the inside. When removed after being worn for a while, the ring is designed to leave an 'X' mark on the finger. This is also known as the 'divorced-bridal' ring.

Inspired by the medicine wheel, a cross motif found in Native American jewelry, it embodies the meaning 'bitter medicine for the mouth' (a proverb meaning the truth is often hard to hear). It also signifies the importance of re-examining things from different perspectives or frameworks. The 'X' mark, when viewed from a different angle, becomes a '+'. We've incorporated the idea that past experiences can become a positive asset into the ring. Furthermore, you can add more 'X' marks if you remarry for a second or third time (laughs).

This bridal ring carries a positive message of facing the past without forgetting one's divorced status. Moreover, the dedicated wooden box containing the ring functions as a music box playing Wagner's and Mendelssohn's wedding marches, a signature JAM touch. It reflects JAM's thoughtful consideration, allowing couples to have their own intimate wedding ceremony at home anytime, even without a grand church or hotel wedding.

The 'humor' of transforming a potentially negative status like being divorced into something positive, and seeing an 'X' as a '+'. The 'concept' of enabling a private wedding ceremony with a music box appeals to the user's emotions. And 'music' is, of course, involved. Yes, this 'divorced-bridal' ring also embodies the brand's philosophy of 'essential design necessity.' JAM, celebrating its quarter-century, teaches us the importance of valuing one's own values, separate from superficial design or brand status.