Focus on Robust Collaboration Items with a Blend of Nostalgia and Novelty

I chose the profession of stylist because I'm interested in fashion, which constantly changes with the times. Tokyo is now a world-class fashion city, and I feel fortunate to be able to work here. However, I want to see fashion not just in Japan but globally, so I attend the collections in Paris, Milan, London, and New York every season. I'm not the type to just watch; I've been buying and wearing things I like without hesitation for many years. This has been my life for 25 years.



For two years, in 1995 and 1996, I traveled to London frequently for both work and pleasure. I think I went about six times a year. My previous experiences in London were limited to a few visits in the late 1980s and early 1990s, none of which left a good impression. But London in 1995 was different. There was a value system there that was completely distinct from the fashion of Milan or Paris at the time. London's stylish men, and some women, didn't favor wearing new clothes.

It felt as though, in Milan or Paris, wearing new fashion would be met with a proud "Look at this!" attitude, but London men seemed to wear new clothes with a sense of slight embarrassment. You might think this is commonplace now, with many people around me in Tokyo adopting a similar approach, but that wasn't the case about 20 years ago. That's why London's sensibility felt so fresh to me back then.

It's a style that, while not indifferent to fashion (in fact, I'm very fashion-conscious), pretends not to be. I feel this resonates with the concept of 'iki' (chic) from Edo-period Japan, which I've read about. I've seen many cities around the world, but I believe London men are unparalleled in their sense of balance when pursuing such 'effortlessness.' In Japan, stylish individuals featured in street style photos often comment that their theme is 'not trying too hard,' which I believe is precisely the theme London men have long pursued. This deeply impressed me and made me fall in love with London.



I believe that Margaret Howell's menswear carries this spirit of British masculinity. This season, Margaret Howell has released collaboration items with traditional British brands such as Baracuta, John Smedley, and Tricker's. While they might seem unrelated to 'mode' at first glance, they exude a modern atmosphere once worn. For those aiming for effortless style, there are no better items.

First, the Baracuta G3, which has a collar similar to the G9 but no ribbed hem. Its charm lies in its lightness, like a short coat. The raglan shoulders also add a spring-like ease. Incidentally, this G3 is a rare Made in England piece these days. I'd like to wear this Baracuta with a light-colored sweater to ward off the early spring chill. The John Smedley marine knit features distinctive shoulder buttons. After a 30-year collaboration, it's a masterpiece where the tastes of both brands have combined to create a synergistic effect. I'd like to wear it casually, like a T-shirt, perhaps with the sleeves rolled up.

Speaking of long-standing collaborations, the relationship with Tricker's also spans 30 years. At first glance, the colors might seem playful, but the timeless appeal of the chukka boot remains intact. I'm captivated by the beauty of the long, slender last. Paired with short-length chino pants, with a glimpse of socks, it creates a refreshingly spring-like impression. The collection look featured a double-cuffed hem, but a single cuff is also a chic option.

The collaborations between Margaret Howell and traditional British brands may not be flashy, but the mutual respect for craftsmanship has resulted in items that are 'almost, but not quite' found elsewhere. You can sense the dedication of the creators. These are exceptional pieces born from a steadfast commitment to their own style, without being swayed by trends, nor completely ignoring them. As spring approaches, I find myself wanting to subtly incorporate the G3 and chukka boots into my wardrobe.




Tomoki Sukezane
Born in Kyoto City on January 25, 1965. He began his career as an editor at Magazine House's 'POPEYE' magazine. Currently, he directs fashion pages for publications such as 'Casa BRUTUS,' 'GQ JAPAN,' 'UOMO,' 'MEN’S NON-NO,' 'ENGINE,' and 'Web Magazine OPENERS,' as well as styling advertisements and stage costumes for artists and musicians. He has been covering men's collections in Paris and Milan for about 25 years.

Anglobal
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp

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