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July 25, 2018
What John Lobb, the Esteemed Gentleman's Shoemaker, Considers "Sustainable" | JOHN LOBB
JOHN LOBB
The Essence of Shoemaking Embodied in "New Classics"
What John Lobb, the Esteemed Gentleman's Shoemaker, Considers "Sustainable"
Born in 2017, the "New Classics" collection emerged from JOHN LOBB's established practice of utilising large, single pieces of leather. While more accessible in price, these shoes are crafted with the meticulous attention to detail befitting a maison of such renown.
Photographs by YAMAGUCHI Kenichi (Jamandfix) | Text by ITO Yuji
John Lobb's Endeavour to Minimise Leather Waste
The "Prestige" line from John Lobb is known for its luxurious construction, using five to six pieces of leather per shoe. Those who find this number small are likely discerning connoisseurs of fine footwear, as typical high-end shoes require approximately 12 to 15 pattern pieces.
Consequently, the technique of cutting large, unblemished sections from a single hide inherently leaves some leather unused.
However, the quality of this remaining leather is on par with the full-grain hides used in the "Prestige" line.
The "New Classics" line is designed to make the most of this exceptional material.
The "New Classics" line, constructed from smaller leather cuttings and typically comprising around 15 pieces, utilises the same materials, lasts, and soles as the standard range. Furthermore, the construction adheres to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship, with artisans hand-stitching each pair in John Lobb's Northampton workshop.
Three Highly Anticipated Models Arrive from the "New Classics" Line
Born from a desire to utilise leather resources efficiently, the "New Classics" line possesses a unique scarcity, as its availability depends on leftover materials, meaning it is not consistently stocked. Deliveries are infrequent, occurring approximately once a year. However, three models – "TAUNTON", "ADLEY", and "EMBER" – are now available in stores.
The "Taunton" model, built on the highly regarded 7000 last, features an asymmetrical design where the leather pieces overlap at the seams, creating a distinctive finish on each shoe.
The "Adley" is a loafer with a striking almond toe, easily adaptable to contemporary business attire. The apron is adorned with twin stitching, a testament to the skilled craftsmanship and unwavering dedication to quality evident in every pair.
The "Ember", with its distinctive double monk strap, offers a refined country-inspired wingtip design. This is elegantly fused with the flowing lines of the 7000 last, from toe to heel. The characteristic asymmetrical overlap of leather pieces, unique to the "New Classics" line, is also applied to the junction between the quarter and vamp.
What unites these shoes is their unwavering quality, even with an increased number of components. Indeed, the ability to incorporate playful design elements into the additional pieces showcases the sophisticated sensibility that defines John Lobb.
The "New Classics" line, by transforming precious leather remnants into exquisite products, has undoubtedly introduced a fresh dimension of appeal to John Lobb.






